MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • The old 2.5-suck diesel – who still has experience with it?

    Hello friends! I drive in my Transit Motorhome year 91 the old 2.5er suction diesel in the 71 HP version. I am now just back from a 5700 km tour across Scandinavia and it ran really well, slowly…abet good. Oil consumption over the distance about 0.8 liters 10w40. Running power is now almost 130,000 km. So…so to have a long time pleasure with the bullet, I wanted to ask for tips and tricks. Oil moisture is it, of course. My almost 20 years younger Opel CDTI did not see bess he from I just tip up again after oil change takes place annually, no matter how much he has run. And otherwise? Just let it roll? Is there something to care for with the cardan shaft? Well otherwise, how are your experiences with the 2.5 suction cups, their mileage etc pp? And I still need tips on water in the footroom. To the left it seems to come from the left, right from the top (front window?) Thanks Greeting Markus

  • Change Brakes Front – Torques

    Hello together, after I changed the rear brakes completely last year, the front brakes are soon on. I saw during the wheel change that not much is missing until the wear contact. Then there are surely still 3-4mm residual lining. Let’s see how long it will take until the display comes. 😉 Now my question. Can someone give me the torques? Brake disc wheel hub Central nut Brake caliper brake caliper The central nut new, or again use? The 5 Screws for wheel hub new? If both new, would someone have the item number? Spring plates, screws for brake disc, and the guide bolts with rubber cuff are definitely reordered. Do I need any special tools? Puller, etc? Vehicle: Custom V362 Box 2.2L, 125hp, from Bj 04/12, KBA 8566-BGB

  • Transit TDCI 110PS Built 2007 Rail printing insufficient

    Hello, I have problems with a transit already for a long time. After the error message “Railpressure insufficient” three out of four injectors were exchanged. Nevertheless, the car ran afterwards in idle extremely bad, unround. In time it got better, the engine malfunction light remained. Now he started with power loss in all aisles (max 80km/h possible), feels like tethered up and simply goes off when stopping or starting. But hardly I had full fuel all symptoms were missing If the fuel supply falls below half or approaches the quarter mark it starts again with jerking when accelerating, power loss and exit of the engine. Is there a pump defective in the tank? Low pressure pump or what that means? Rail pressure insufficiently means nothing else than fuel pressure insufficient. If the tank is full, the pressure is automatically sufficient, a pump is not needed at all. But woe, it empties. . Is my guess true, what do you think? Thank you and greeting! Matthias

  • Ford Euroline 2013 First registration – Good price?

    Dear Motortalk Forum, my first post here and based on the good comments I have read to other posts, I would like to ask you for advice. We as a small family, want to change now from Tourneo Connect to a Euroline, because the size of the tourneo is not enough anymore. Now it is not so easy with the Euroline I have the feeling. On the one hand they are apparently very much asked for on the other they probably have some weaknesses. The Ford was on 10.07.2013 EZ. Ha t no visible rust traces. In addition to the 3-seater seat has the 2 single seats and a 3-seater seat as an exchange for the 2-seater combination. Has 124T km down and the 140PS diesel engine. Otherwise the Ford “refrigerator” and standard equipment with preheating. Stand all the time under Carport and the last TÜV report do not know any defects. Call here 14.800€ Meanwhile I see cars at all prices and can no longer assess whether this is a good offer. engine running with control chain and car is from 1st hand. Would be very pleased about your feedback! VG Tony

  • Extension of rear air conditioning

    Moin Freunde, I am proud owner of a Transit Custom H2L2 9 seater from 2019, the 130hp version. The best car that I have ever owned and I had to save my ass for it. The car is to be converted to a camper and there is the additional air conditioning/heating in the back in my way. Since we drive anyway almost only two and the car is insulated, I think the one air conditioning will also be easy enough. The local Ford Workshops (Oldenburg) say that is from the factory a I’m an engineer and a screw, even if the workshop doesn’t want to make any money, so I thought maybe someone had some experience with it. There are 4 lines from the engine room to the climate module in the rear, certainly a circuit for hot water and one for the climate agent. Could you cut the lines close to the theme room (after vacuuming the climate agent) and bridge them? Are there parts around the condition Does the controller have to be reprogrammed or Fake sensors connected to the electronics so that there is no error message afterwards? Maybe someone has ideas, experiences or tips to whom/what workshop you can contact. Best regards Hans

  • Another St on Autogas on the Road

    Hello, on Saturday I picked up my ST at the Patz car dealership, had converted my Focus ST to car gas. Plant is an ICOM JTG with 86L gross tank. So far I am absolutely satisfied with the car. Is everything as previously said. Car runs noticeably better with car gas than with normal Super petrol. Have with me two nice routes to test, one goes up on the BAB a quite steep mountain. With Super petrol I arrived in the 5th to 220 as soon as I started in the 6th It has fallen to 215km/h (tacho). Couldn’t even keep the speed, with autogas when I speed up to 222km/h at 220 in the sixth shift. It keeps the speed up to 222km/h after that. The other track also keeps the mountain up again to 180km/h with super petrol, with Super Plus at 185km/h with Shell V power also at 185km/h and with Autogas also at 185km/h. Therefore, I have no power decrease due to the gas operation. S uper Plus costs 1.269 with us at the moment, car gas only 60 cents. I am very satisfied with the system. I can only recommend the retrofitter Patz, everything worked out 1A, the system runs round, consultation was great and what so everything belongs to it. I can’t say anything about consumption, but now I have to refuel, let’s see how much I use my normal work path. You can see pictures here: http://home.arcor.de/hommer1964/focus/gas/ If you are interested in how much with consumption etc. looks like Then let me know, I’ll write something with you once in a while when something new happens. Greetings Hommer Achja what I just remembered, the Focus ST has an oil temperature indicator, there’s no difference between gasoline and gas on the normal routes. Only at full gas on the BAB goes I think the oil temperature 2-5 degrees higher than with normal petrol. However, even at 250 the oil temperature has not yet reached the center of the indicator, but always remains 1-2mm in front of it. But unfortunately, the measurement because of the ESP only turned out to be scrap.

  • Tyre wear

    Hello guys, so that a front-driver at the front wears the tyres more than at the rear is clear but not like mine. 6000 km driven and only 5 mm in front on it. Is that normal, or do you have other experiences. Can one have a new adjustment with track and fall achieve improvements ? I have specially picked out the tyres from the ADAC test which are reasonably inexpensive from the good a) and b) have best marks in wear. But did not help anything. Maloya tyres I have back are still 7mm on it. as I said for 6000 km a bit happy for my taste

  • Euro 5 standard decided – re-encryption possible?

    After a surprisingly long time there is now the E5 standard:http://www.spiegel.de/auto/current/0,1518,454358.htmlhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/gas standard Therefore: Does anyone have the exact exhaust gas values for the 1.6 tdci DPF? …What would be necessary for a re-encryption? Ford itself does not seem to me to be interested in this topic 🙁 MfG

  • For experts only: Problems 2.3E (NG)

    Hi to everyone! I want to briefly explain my suffering story: I drive a 2.3E NG 5cylinder bj 94. The box runs very badly, starts smoothly, but runs very thin and has no performance at all. I changed the spark plugs, the old ones were cabbage black=>too fat… Nix changed…now the new total white=>too lean. Lambda probe I controlled, this works. If I plug them off, it runs the same way. The voltage value is 0.5v un idle. d is changing when gas is given. However, the control unit cannot be read out? I was at several workshops, they told me that the control unit is not diagnostic. You can only read out by means of a flash code. Unfortunately, this was only possible up to bj 90. I have neither the control lamp nor the fuse in the power-off pump relay?? Another thing about the rest of the machine: underpressure is tight, pump works, ignition distributor is renewed, fuel pump seems to be also in order, Ignition is set

  • Help!! Ruckle at the ABK engine

    My Audi 80 quattro with 2.0 L 115 hp ABK engine (149000 km) still causes problems when running the engine. If the accelerator pedal is quickly penetrated in idle mode, the engine first swallows itself before turning up. When driving in the lower speed range (up to 3000 rpm) there is always a jerker when taking the gas and when giving the gas afterwards the car is jerking again. I also have the feeling that the car does not really hang cleanly on the gas up to 3000 or 3500 rpm. The acceleration is very slow in the range. From 3500 rpm the engine is running very well. Only from 5500 onwards it gets tougher again. When reading out the fault memory, of course, no errors occur. I have already changed the cooling water temperaturer, the Lambda probe, the throttle valve mpoti and the air volume meter. Also all vacuum hoses. What else can the problem be caused by? Control unit or knocked out throttle flaps?