the best or nothing… every day this advertising flicker over the screens..for that one sees a car with star…. and then Daimler has the impudence and offers a Parktronic at the GT…. nicely thinks the reader of a price list…only there what is missing, the active parking guide….well error in the price list then the little man thinks the demand at Daimler-AMG…and see there…NO..no parking guide available…but ha ha one has apparently still a large box with the old Parktronic found… its contents must also be installed… because the Swabians throw away nothing….
Author: 00c12f
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Experience at the 3008 Premium 2.0 HDi 150 FAP
Hello friends of the Great Lion , I plan to get this or early next year the 3008 Premium with the 2.0 HDi 150 FAP and now have a few questions about it. I know the car has only been around for less than a year, but it will certainly give the one or other who already has it: I have unfortunately not yet been able to make a test drive, but will see that now a date is agreed. Already many thanks in advance for all useful tips. PS: will be after the test drive also my part contribute to this Mfg, TheBlackPlus.
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What spare part should I take? Don’t get along with the chassis number.
I have already asked in other forums, but there have not been sufficient answers so far. And now it is getting tight with the time. I have an Audi 100 (44) if it is of interest. I was at Tüv and a slightly damaged rubber part was discovered on a wheel suspension. Small part, big price, because the rubber alone is not available, but only the complete part and that would cost at Pit-Stop in about 250 euros, plus installation. A little bit a lot. So we clarified that I had the part I also found something on the internet and the cheapest provider (NK) has the part for 76 or 96 euros. Depending on which one, because I don’t know which one to take. I asked for it at a workshop and they recommended me to buy the part for: starting from chassis number 44M 002674. But now my number (easy ge-x-t) looks like this from WAUZZZ44ZLN080xxx WAU means the manufacturer code. The three Z before the 44 are part of the series, Audi fills unused places with Z’s (I think). The one Z after 44 is a test number (Z in this case probably means unused field, because in Europe, as I have read it somewhere, the test number does not matter), the 44 the series, L is the model year and N is the manufacturer’s factory. I have found out so much by now. 080xxx is the continuous number (here partly made unrecognizable by xxx by me). Important for substitutes In this case my number would be: 44L080xxx There is the same component once for up chassis number 44L11380, 44M002673 and then starting from chassis number 44M002674 I asked in a workshop. Although you saw that they didn’t know each other either, but somehow they found out the part by way of detour. And the part is according to their opinion starting from chassis number 44M002674 meanwhile ic I would rather type on – to chassis number 44L11380, 44M002673 -. L means the year 90, M the year 91. My vehicle was built and registered in 90. The double number for the component probably because the same model was built in L and M. It is all a bit confusing. Who should I believe, the workshop or me? No matter what part it is, because the one part has a bolt v 18 mm and the other 19 mm. What do you think?
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How best to get in?
Hello guys, I bought my Essi at the beginning of March. He had 109,000 KM on it and had been logged out since November 2009. According to the letter he had 2 previous owners and the last owner was a woman who drove him for 5 years. I made the first oil change and there came out a real, soot-black broth. Oil 5W40 and new oil filter. When timing belts were made last, was no longer comprehensible. I drove about 1000 KM so far, always gentle and not over 120 KM, since I also did not have a good G Last week, the timing belts, WaPu and V-belts were renewed, it was high time, it was close to breaking. Since the most important thing is actually done, I would like to “test” my Essi. But I have some concerns, because he was standing for almost 5 months and usually women are driving more slowly and under-touring than men, of course, there are also exceptions. Now my real question to you: How do I go a Is it true that from time to time you should drive the engine “free”. Do you actually have the feeling that it attracts well and that it also runs nice and quiet, so there are no jerks or holes in the acceleration. How would you proceed to get it to the top speed? Is this the best way to drive a few KM with 130 KM and then climb slowly or drive for a few KM then “leadfoot”?
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Quit back left
Hello yesterday I left 0,2 bar on the two rear tires because I thought that was ok. I now have 2,3 back before 2,5, but also had 2,0 depending on how I had loaded. Now I drove today and Heaven’s Help it squeaking back there. First I thought it was the shock absorbers because they are slowly due. With us the roads are a Katasprophe, but you would rather waste the money for Afghanistan instead of plug holes. (sorry my pulse goes up there when I see these holes in the streets) Well, at least I’m back through such a pothole and then it squeaked in the back. Like a train on tracks. Until I drove about 50 m into a left turn. Then it was quiet for a long time, partly in right curves it started again. I have read now that it could be the wheel bearing. But I don’t understand why it has to do with the air pressure. I’m going to get back in 2.5 tomorrow but I think the wheel bearing is still over. nge can I still drive with it and or is it something else? I am grateful for every tip.
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HELP!!! single key lost!!!!!!
Hello! I have a Ford Escort Kombi BJ 96 with WFS! Unfortunately I have lost the only key. Yesterday I inquired at Ford and they want 500€ to expand all locks and make new locks and program them! It seems to me a little too expensive! If I find a complete key set with the car butcher with bowl, do not need to have the key programmed in then, don’t? What do I need for the lock atz, also a stew Gets???? Please for help!!!! Thank you very much!
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Kia Picanto buy – Who has advice? 🙂
Hello! I would like to buy a car again. It should be small, automatic transmissions and best equipped with parking sensors, rear-view camera and seat heating. Now I’ve been looking around again and again online for quite a while and finally came across the Kia Picanto GT. In white I like the mega and also the interior equipment I like great. I was already at the dealer, I got the booklet and so on. If I really get a new car e (with me day registration or a new used one would rather be because of the price), then I also want a good equipment. Speak Navi package and technology package (P4 and P5) should already be in there. Unfortunately, the technology package also includes the smart key..I don’t like at all but I would like to park sensors and climate automation would be quite nice. I also think the Advanced Driving Assistant (P1) makes sense.. or what do you mean? And so sunroof would be quite nice. Well. Now to my actual questions. I would like to do a test drive. Now the only available automatic car of the dealer where I had requested was sold but unfortunately. But if I want to buy an automatic car, does a test drive with a circuit bring me nothing…especially because I also honestly did not drive a circuit for a long time. Do you have any tips where I could still try it or a suggestion that I could make to the dealer? e like to compare several offers. Actually I did not plan to spend over 10,000€ (or even more in this case) for the car, but I really like the Picanto and I would want to keep it for a long time. Only would be nice if I would find a good offer. Could also wait a bit for it. But where could I find good offers? On the internet I find the selection (or I look wrong) not exactly diverse. I live in Hamburg, the Aut o but also pick up somewhere else in Germany, if the price is right. Maybe you still have tips from good dealers or something. And it should be the latest model, right? Or do you say the older models are just as worthwhile? Unfortunately, I don’t really know myself well, but the Picanto GT has done it to me. And what are your experiences – can you still get the dealers to discounts and if then rather with cash payment or financing? Maybe also many stupid Questions – but I am grateful for any help.
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Picanto TA 1.25 BJ14 – Outriggers Noise at coupling unstepped: grinds, squeakes
Hello dear Kia-Forum, I usually drive around in the Renault-Forum. I hope you can help me as well here. It’s about the Picanto 2 (TA) of my girlfriend. He got a new clutch (complete set of LuK) 2.5 months / 4,000 km ago. Since Kia refused to meet us at the clutch with just 48,000 km / 3.5 years, a free workshop changed the clutch. However, the car always made a bit of noise, but drove like ne and now the car was inspected by the Kia dealer and since then the noise has been quite extreme. I uploaded a file that I recorded with my mobile phone directly under the engine/gear unit. It should be noted, the noise is only available with completely undefeated clutch, no matter if gear is inserted and moving or standing in idle mode. If you put only one foot on the pedal very easily, so the noise is gone. I did this a few times in the audio recording. Who can help. My suspicion would be something new at the backstock. In a similar thread it was then a bearing of the transmission input shaft. Thank you very much.
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Change from Corsa to Rio recommended ?
Hello, my friend is currently driving an Opel Corsa with 1.4 engine and 100 hp (EZ 10/2012) and has driven almost 40,000 KM. So far there were no problems, the fuel consumption is about 6.5 – 7 liters depending on the driving method. Yesterday we saw a current Rio in black in a parking lot, either completely new or freshly washed, beautiful aluminium rims etc. That looked great. Unfortunately we could not ask the owner, therefore my request to you: How is the general reliability of the R io? Are there special problems? Which engine should be used (not so lame or fuel eaters)? What is the general material quality? Are the inspections more expensive than generally in this car class? How are the dealers on it (mostly smaller plants)? The 1.4 with 99 hp and the 6-speed transmission might like, because no turbo and direct injection, therefore probably more problem-free. Maybe it also does the 1.2 with 84 hp. Due to the good experience with the Corsa she wants to have a m may not experience any brand change deterioration. Thanks for the help. Greeting Jüppken
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POLLEN filter, no normal interior filter for Rio IV wanted
Hello Rio community, I have already typed my fingers sore, but obviously I ended up as a pollen allergy sufferer in the wrong car?? Various car parts portals lead a lot of interior filters, but just no pollen filter for the new Rio YB. The “overly customer-oriented” Kia dealer Hemmerle here in Munich has just told me that the part employee has work at 5 pm (it was 4:54 pm!) and before I get any more unqualified answers from dealers, I thought I asked in the Motortalk-Rio-Forum! I hope you can help me! Greetings and good ride with the glitter shortty