Category: Allgemeine Kaufberatung Forum

Hello, now it’s finally time for me to finally get a “fun car” as a second car. It’s going to be a used car, price should cost up to 2000€ and I’m first open for everything. With me, the BMW Z4 and the Porsche Boxster have fallen into the narrow selection, however, it could also be an older roadster a la MGB or Triumph. Now first of all my question, someone has an idea how I know such a wide range of vehicles for the first time nlearn can go without e.g. to the Porsche Center and drive a brand new Boxster test, because that probably makes little sense? There are some Boxsters at Autoscout, which I like very much, but I would have to take 2-3 hours to get there and so I would like to know beforehand if it should become a Boxster at all. Also I don’t know if it is ok to call private sellers near me and ask for a test drive if it is clear, d a used car dealer in Brühl refused me a test drive with an old Porsche, because he gets on his nerves with the test drive tourism. I have been driving car for 25 years, I have driven almost everything from 50-300 hp, but neither a Porsche nor a BMW Z4 or an old roadster and my decision should be based primarily on which car I personally am personally, just makes me most happy. I usually have a first impression after 5 minutes to know if I like a car. How do you do when you want to get to know a roadster?

For example, I wanted to know if I am buying a vehicle now where I noticed a problem, for example, some oil on the turbocharger and I noticed that before.When then the seller is liable for it.Had now read different items.On one side the seller is only liable if the problem existed before and was recorded in the contract.On another side the seller is liable for all defects that arise after purchase, i.e. r even if it was not recorded in the contract that was some oil around the turbocharger. So on the one side stands >Defect liability/guarantee there are only defects covered which have already been present at the vehicle transfer. On the other side stands >The warranty, unlike the guarantee, is based on the property and legal defect liability, which is recorded in the BGB. A seller is liable for the fact that one thing that he sells is free of defects. This can also be hidden defects be or those that occur only after the purchase. So the one side says it must have existed before and have been recorded in the contract and the other says the guarantee covers everything if it happens after the purchase and has not been determined or recorded in the contract before. Bzw another side says defects that have been determined before the purchase and are then recorded in the contract and where, for example, then the turbo gets broken after that I have to pay myself because that already v or purchase.

Moin, moin! I am very satisfied with my current car and I already know exactly which model should be purchased as a second vehicle. But I think of the winter at night, I am brought to sleep My Mazda is actually too bad to drive it in winter and honestly there are better winter cars from driving behavior. On snow life comes quickly to the rear. That can be funny, but if you have to drive and that is still 90 km daily, the Fun in limits. For my dream car/second car there is not enough coal yet, so I looked for a transitional and winter car. The first doubts come to me about the purchase of such a vehicle. A second car would definitely significantly reduce my saving rate for the next, beautiful car – the purchase would thus move further into the future. What would you do in my place? My Mazda did have a kind underbody and hollow last year. raumverseigelung with Fluid Film/Perma Film get and should therefore the winter use better cope than it would normally be the case. Should I now live ascetically, teeth bitten together, with the MX-5 through the winter to me to buy my V8 rapcat earlier or rather first spare the Mazda and take some money in the hand? Should the decision in favor of the winter car fail I stand again before a decision. Variant 1: do the Karre for 4-500 € ka ufen, put in another 200 € so that they drive again, drive 3/4 year and scrap / export for pocket money Disadvantages: the cars are already borderline scrapy Advantages: cheap Example: Mondeo Variant 2: I look for cars up to 1000 € and plug again 200 € in so that they drive again. For this there are about stronger engines, slightly larger, safer cars, which are not quite so scrapy. After half a year you should be able to sell a car like this again for 800 € Advantages: safer, probably reliable disadvantages: more capital tied Example: Focus What are your experiences like? Can you drive a car in price classes half-way carefree for a year without being afraid that you’ll be left with it? So let’s philosophize, I’m curious about your opinions.

Hi would like to replace my Mercedes E320 cdi year of construction 2001 with a newer car. Thought so on vehicles from construction year 2010 They should have at least what my mercedes has. So Navi with screen, multifunction steering wheel, seating and pdc would also be nice and naturally air conditioning. I want to spend up to 14.000€ things like daytime driving light,curve light, air conditioning automatic, outdoor mirror foldable, rear driving camera, start/stop ect would be nice but not necessarily. I had looked at many at different portals but many are also easy to see and see. Have 2 vehicles so far in the eye a Chevrolet Orlando 2.0 D Year of construction 7.12.12 km: 149599 The hatt full leather, rear camera, automatic climate control, seating, mirror itself shielding,navi with large screen,start/stop,outside mirror foldable ect and the sound of the built-in boxes for music was also very good.In addition, the vehicle is like new inside and outside. hanger clutch and new mature which he needs that I have to pay everything on it because I get about 12900 but get only one warranty. Then another Renault Laguna Grandtour built in 2012 km: 120,000 with curvature light, daytime running light,navi with screen,bi xenon,seatzung, mirror blinding,part leather,start/stop,standabilityzung,outside mirror folding condition from the inside and outside is just as good as new.However, the sound of the radio was somehow unclear and didn’t sound good when you were looking for a new car. The vehicle starts at the push of the button, which is also very modern.The seller wants 12000 for the vehicle and he says he also gives me 1 year guarantee and I get new all-year tyres and the trailer coupling also.

So, after more than a year I need the swarm knowledge again (because something has changed in my situation). Current situation: 50 km work path simple (i.e. 100 km/day), country road with a few village passes, hilly (Harzvorland). In addition, every Sunday from here to Hettstedt (located between Mansfeld and Aschersleben) – approx. 130 km easy route (A 38 Leinefelde-Worbis to Sangerhausen-Süd, then country road) (i.e. 250 – 260 km total). With on board: besides me my wife, my daughter and every 2nd weekend my son (as well as mostly two drinks crates and a large travel bag). That was not yet foreseeable when buying the Megane and has something to do with my son’s training. Existing car: Megane 3 station wagon from 2012 with 106 HP diesel engine (1.5 dci / K9K). Problem: On the one hand, the Megane is just too weak on the chest for the Sunday course (for the pendulum to work he should also like more steam). The consumption on the track is just acceptable (according to the exact computer on board 5.5 l), but you have to kick the engine – and even with speed it is quite tough. During the week I have it so at 5 l. And the engine can’t be switched at all – on the contrary, I’m only switching (even if the 6speed transmission can be switched well). On the other hand there are just -zig small nerves (e.g. the car radio is far too low and thanks to 1DIN poorly operated). ar) and also bigger (unharmonious, because too hard chassis, the rolling noise of the tires is far too loud in the interior). The test drive then went over good roads, besides, I came directly from an old, clattery focus – there is first every car better… Also the place should be above all at the rear nevertheless a little more (that, what the car has increased in width compared to the Focus Mk1 would have been better in length), the trunk is usually enough (but also nciht bad, if it’s more Now the question is – what to do. The Sunday track remains for at least two years, the workplace at worst until retirement (would be more than 19 years if you were retired at 67). Teeth tugging together and driving the car for 2-3 years? Or repelling (will you get rid of it at all?) and something else? Only if other car – what? What I want: comfort. At least a comfortable driver’s seat, air conditioning or automatic, quiet interior (at least until speed 130, faster I only drive around). Good light, space (in no case less than in the Megane Combi!!!). A confident engine also with pull-through “bottom” (without high speeds) – which is above speed 130, is not important. And the car should be economical – in terms of total costs (except loss of value, which does not interest me). Compact car or middle class, angled neck, stepneck, combi. Repair/maintenance in the good free workshop of my trust. d I don’t want to change (apart from small things like spark plugs or the air filter). Can also be a slightly older car – if it is per se robust (Honda Accord? Toyota Avensins?). Whether petrol, diesel, car or natural gas I don’t really care in principle, with hybrid I don’t know (so I don’t exclude), electricity – no (lantern parker). Automatic converters and steering wheel heating would be nice, but is not a must. What I don’t want: Premium (ABM & Co.) or cars, where you can name mi Tpaid, VW Golf, Mini, Fiat 500, SUV, Van, high roof combi, crossover, craft stalls. Thoughtful budget: 10 k Euro would be the limit of pain. And no, I’m not ready to put a few thousands on it for a new Dacia or Lada!!! That’s absolutely undisputable for me – point!

Hello together, so the following situation: Despite Corona and mostly digital studies, I need a car to be mobile for work. So far, I had a very old polo, which gave up the spirit a few weeks ago. After my workshop of trust advised me not to put more money into it (coupling defective), I went looking for a new mobile kit. The budget was about 1500€ for the purchase. As I knew that it would be I didn’t think it would be difficult for you to get anything useful in the price range, but rather to stay under it, and then, if necessary, wear repairs etc., what people who sell cars in the price range would like to do. Further criteria: – as new as possible TÜV – likes from 75 hp – Equipment completely no matter, optics as well — should just drive and give the impression in the To be able to take me from A to B for a while I had picked out several candidates and then looked at a Saab 900. The car had just fresh TÜV and made a solid impression. The price called was 950€. Since my knowledge of cars was limited, I made an appointment directly at a workshop nearby and arranged a used car check there. I explained that I am layman and need an assessment. The mechanic checked the car thoroughly on site (at least I thought that, later on, more about it) and also found a few defects, which were not serious, or no dealbreakers. These were all easily repairable things, for which I had also provided extra air in the budget. There were among other things a loose heat shield, 2 small not rusted rust spots. On the underfloor, old tyres and slight oil loss on the ignition distributor. The mechanic asked me what the price concept of the seller looked like (950€) and recommended me to try to trade the seller down to 850€. The car was still solid and for its age (Ez 12/96) and Km stand (about 300,000) in good condition. Since my impression was also positive, I accepted the recommendation and was able to convince the seller of 850€. The location was about an hour away from home. A few days later I had re-registered the car and presented it to my main workshop to discuss the costs for the removal of the above mentioned defects. In addition to the above mentioned defects, the workshop master noticed two other serious defects. The shock absorbers at the rear left and right are rusty. In his opinion, the car should never have received a new HU badge. Whether they could still work there, he could not tell me yet. If one had to weld in new holms, the costs would be at 1500€ or more due to the lack of suitable repair plates, which therefore still have to be made, as well as the associated working time. So sometimes almost twice the purchase price. I have al I don’t have much more possibilities, because unfortunately I don’t know anyone who knows much better than I do. Looking back, of course, I could have explored the model on the Internet before to find out this seemingly known flaw, no question. That was definitely my fault and I didn’t think about it. I just thought I could look at the assessment. It was clear to me that the TÜV did not check whether the car had regularly received its oil changes. But safety-relevant defects such as rusted Holme should have been recognized by the TÜV and thus had to protect me from a purchase. Now I don’t know what to do. Can you take the dekra into regress for it? Probably not, right? Retreat the purchase contract (from private)? Probably not, because I would have to be able to prove that the seller had lost the defect w What I can’t do. I can’t put 1500€ in either. What would you advise me to do?

Servus with each other! My mother asked me for help. She wants to get a new car, but doesn’t know which one. Since she and the Internet no longer become a dream team in this life, in her perception only exists as a potential new car, which she finds on the yard of her regular dealer. And unfortunately, unfortunately, at the Hyundai there is currently nothing that appeals to her. Since I can reasonably appreciate her taste, I have a few suggestions from cars of other Hers And indeed, a proposal (or 2) has promised to her. And this is the typical car, in which one imagines a conservative 70-year-old retired woman, exactly, a Subaru BRZ. I was not even surprised by that now, her all-time favourite car was finally her ’02 Hyundai Coupé, the BRZ has quite a similarity. Now the BRZs and GT86s are not very often new to the dealer and thanks to EOP both models are allowed I wanted to look for alternatives now, since this is not necessarily a segment with which I know myself, but I’m somewhat shocked! In the past, Celica, Probe, Eclipse, Calibra, Fiat Coupé,… in the past, almost every manufacturer had one in the portfolio, today the segment of cheap sports cars seems to be absolutely dead and everyone is apparently building hot hatches, i.e. building senseless spoiler plant and broken exhaust systems on its own. biederen compact-class models. Help me, what could I recommend to the good woman again to give yourself to? The following criteria: -new car or less than 10,000km for max. 30,000€ -manual transmission -sporty design -some parking aid, e.g. rear-view camera -actual driving dynamics and performance are not really important -somehow suitable for everyday and long-distance use. Ne Elise would probably be nothing for her -reasonable service network in Germany, i.e. nothing too exotic. -Danger will be approx. 10tkm p.a., mainly city/road I suggested the following cars, which fell through: Mazda Miata, Fiat 124 Spider (both too impractical), Kia Ceed GT (doesn’t like), Kia Pro’Ceed and Hyundai i30 Fastback N-Line (both don’t like and too big). At the moment she drives a Hyundai Veloster 1.Gen and the current one is too similar to her. All in all, I think that the BRZ would be a good match, but if it should fail during a test drive, I don’t know what I would then n I would be pleased to hear some useful information at this point!

Hello guys, I’m looking for a new car, because my beloved Corsa B ( 1.0 L/ 54 HP) suffered total damage in an accident. The car was properly parked behind a curve and a woman drove in full pot. The damage was settled, however, it is over. I’m a student and don’t have much money, so I’m looking for a mobile kit without a lot of frills, but with concretely two tricky, exotic wishes. The Corsa was in many ways my dream car: He cost me 300! Euro, (purchased on ebay kl. from a family that had to get rid of him quickly due to new purchase). Note: I have 1-2 friends who know each other and can help me with repair and inspection. Then I drove the Corsa two years and in the time was never anything. He consumed 5 liters, the gear shift was super pleasant and I have in the trunk really a lot re This is supposed to be the case with his successor again, I am welcome to play some tetris, but a smart one is not in question. Why the Corsa is now not eligible for the purchase again, I’m going to consider it right away. A few basic conditions: Driving performance: approx. 600-10,000 km per year Budget: 2500 euros (also cheaper, the Corsa has cost 300 euros as stated above) in total cost-effectively: Consumption, insurance, taxes, reliability, spare parts supply Fuel type: Gasoline transmission: everything except drunken converters, i.e. circuit or ASG (I get clear with it) size: small, but no smart., sit down and thus go on vacation with the Corsa I honestly don’t want so much electronics, because it can also break. For me it would even be reasonable if the car has no central locking and no electric window lifter. What I really needed at the Corsa was the air conditioning, which should be inside now. I am very hi Now I come to my two exotic wishes, which could make the whole thing a bit more difficult, because this is not so easy in the small car sector: 1. I would like to have an armrest. I find armrests simply super comfortable and comfortable. I have absolutely no problem with a In the case of the centre consoles it is the case that, for example, the armrest is screwed into the storage area or flipped into it. Then there are also cars, such as the Corsa B, which had no center console at all. There is actually only the hand brake between the driver’s seat and the passenger seat. Is there even enough space? The final result should not be squeezed and pressed. Or simply asked – must the car, if I want to have an armrest with which I am then satisfied – a middle Lconsole? Now the second exotic wish: I want a 2- or 4-spoke steering wheel. I find it totally corrosive when the steering wheel is closed down, my mother’s 4-leg golf has a 4-spoke steering wheel and I find it super pleasant to grab the bottom of the steering wheel in the car. That’s super comfortable and I don’t understand why 70% of the cars you see standing outside have a spoke down. Since I was satisfied with the Corsa B in many ways, I have mic h times busy with the Corsa C, they already have climate. Unfortunately, all Corsa C have a three-spoke steering wheel, Opel does not offer a 4-spoke steering wheel at all. Did you have bad luck then, or can you build a third-party steering wheel, a sports steering wheel or something like that with 2- or 4 spokes? Is this somehow possible? Of course this is a delicate story with the airbag and probably also somewhat elaborate, but I would have someone who helps me… So, the whole thing is summarized again: G A cheap small car is searched for, which has to have nothing from the factory except air conditioning, if a 2- or 4-spoke steering wheel and an armrest can be installed. I would have nothing against ASG or CVT, switching car is also ok, only thirsty converter is not. Armrest and 4-spoke steering wheel should finally be inside, both must not be available for me ex factory, but less work is basically better than more. Do you say, there is a solution for this? 🙂 What would you suggest to me? I have a bit of fear that many of you will suggest to me something like a Golf 4 as a switchcar, but I’d like to have it even smaller… 🙂

I’d like to thank you again for all the answers :-)) I still had the wish of a Suzuki Vitara’s from the 90’s. But since I don’t have a workshop yet, I’ve had to give up this wish. I’m a driver and I’m looking for a cheap car in the maintenance with low consumption. Of course it would be great if the next 5 years had nothing to do but the TÜV, but that’s not in it, I’ve already learned. Now I’ve found a super car, which has only 53tkm down, from 2005 and from first (or 2rd) hand – driven by a retired woman. Garage car, top maintained, accident-free. In April of this year, the brakes front and the Achsmanschette left were renewed, the battery in January 2016. I’m going to see him now on Sunday, maybe it’s still working on this Friday. He’s got TÜV until 04/2018 and I’d need to get some new winter tires as well as a 300km ride to it and that for unbeatable z500’s all the stuff.

Day people are 17 years old and was now working a lot to buy me a car on 2 months. But now comes the question which ? The insurance should not be all too expensive and it should be one with at least 4 places. The car should not be somehow mega small, wants something neat but also no station wagon. Have thought of an Audi a3 8l although I find the 8p chicer ?? Or a golf. The car must definitely take a lot of time because I also want to drive abroad in the summer with the car. My budget is 2500 Euro pipapo.. The car should also not be shabby.. Hope someone also has some ideas for other cars .. Lg