Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello community! I have a riddle for you, maybe someone has an idea! I had the gearbox and the clutch changed today at my Audi and both funks again like an one! But: If I drive between 0 – 40 km/h, whether I’m speeding or slowing down, no matter if I’ve uncoupled or uncoupled, whether the air conditioning is switched on or off you can hear a speed-dependent “crack-crack-crack”, you could describe it as a loop (“egging”. If you hear before changing the gearbox, you can’t relate to the new gearbox! But the mystery of the matter is: As soon as I turn off the engine when the cracking is clearly audible, the cracking is also gone. If I then start the engine again in the rolling of the car, the cracking is immediately heard again. Apart from starting the engine and making out anything else, I have done nothing else. So it can’t be done on the clutch, the gearbox or Who has an idea or even knows the phenomenon??? I am very grateful for suggestions! Greetings, Dominik Autodaten: Audi 80 B4 Quattro 2.0E, engine identification letter: ABK

Evening, the thread title actually says everything, I could have an Audi 80 2.8 (Limousine) cheaply, year 1993 for approx. 300€. Why it is so cheap I don’t know yet. I haven’t seen the car yet or only on one picture (in the appendix), but will still look at it this week. It’s not an accident car, has 219’000km and was driven by an older man. He gave away the Audi when he had to give off his driver’s license. The equipment (so what I know so far) Actually not so bad (especially for this price), elktr. window lifter front, sports suspension, ZV, fog headlight, elktr. exterior mirror… Since I already have an Audi 80 2.0 E Avant (and want to stay with this one ) I wonder if I should fight this Audi out? I would have asked, are the differences from the 2.8 to the 2.0 E big? So now not related to the engine (that’s clear..), but rather to the body, interior etc.? I think that s should fit already, shouldn’t I? I’d like to ask further if the intress to share of this Audi would be present here? I don’t need all the nice evening yet, adi

Hello everyone, I have a problem and I got my brake discs and receipts today. I also installed them immediately. When I was ready to mount the brake caliper again it was very difficult to press on the disc incl. covers. Well it grinds without end the discs glow literally when driving …next problem I can kick through the brake pedal despite several times pumps completely but there are no leaks visible or so car : Audi 80 B4 2,8l Sch eibe : Brembo coverings : ATE Please help me !!!

Hello people First of all: Search used, nothing useful for me found! 😉 So. I have Audi80 B4 90hp built in 1992. So my problem is, it sucks and sucks. On average is bee just over 10 liters. My distance to the workplace is 35km. Of this are about 30km highway and highway. In Austria, so maximum 130km/h, i.e. about 3000 revolutions in 5 gear! 😉 I took over the car from my brother, and he meant the fuel consumption on good 8L. Ok. I’ve already read in part that the B4 needs a lot, but 10 liters? Notice everything that should reduce fuel consumption! Point 1: Tire pressure. Bite more, reduces rolling resistance, thus less fuel consumption. It was made. Point 2: Quickly switch to a higher gear. I always try to stay below 3000 curls, which works 90%. Point 3: Avoid unnecessary braking. It’s also done. Is there anything else I can do? Thx MFG

hello and that’s what I have a problem and one can help me. I’ve built up my chassis 60/60 with shortened gas pressure dampers and now to my problem, my car is higher in the front than in the back and I’ve also driven about 500km because I thought it still has to lie down but it’s still like that.I used to measure from the middle of the wheel to the lower edge of the wing and it’s 35,5 va / 29,5 ha that makes 5cm higher than in the back.Can jemad give me a tip? on supersport and my car is an audi 80 type 89 with 1.8l

And one more question I saw an Audi standing, whose engine compartment looked “like licked”! I now have a few questions: 1. How do you get an engine including the lock carrier and the adjacent body parts soooo clean? So, how do you do that and with what means? 2. Is it better to keep an engine soo clean, because it then also runs better, you can see any liquid leaks faster and the engine simply does not rot so quickly? OR Is it better to keep the M otor to leave as it is, also with its over the years “collected” dirt and dust layer, which he then has now? Because by “cleaning” (specially natural) and cleaning fluids (water, cleaning agents, …) the cables and components may be attacked more or can have short circuits – than if you don’t clean it? For me personally a clean motor always makes a better impression, simply because I think that there is less dirt and wear in the engine d is in the engine compartment – imagining or is it really like that?? What do you think about it? Just tell every idea! I’m curious … Joe In the appendix a perfect example of a clean engine compartment, as I think!

Hello have changed my ball bearing shells with my 3a motor before I could turn the crankshaft, although heavy but by hand. after which I have made new bearing shells clean I have to take a pliers and turn on the girdle discs still not even on the swing wheel I can turn by hand (toothing is not on it yet and the head also not) now my questionisthe normal?

I need help again now and because the topic has changed a new thread (in the old one nobody answered after all) Thought as long as the squeaking comes from the brake clatters, had now right front the blocks out and tapped, nevertheless still the same problem. The sheet metal is also free, no stones or something in between. PROBLEM ACCORDING! If it just squeaks (straight out) and I press the brake with left short it is often gone. If I then slip again It squeaks -> down from the gas, squeak away -> speed up squeak again. Make it stop when it turns slightly to the right, to the left it starts more when it was just quiet. Right side is not hotter than left after driving, I think slow the brake is not training !!!???? My questions!!! 1. Can a bubble in the system prevent the brake from being properly solved on the way to the right wheel??? 2. Is it perhaps the wheel bearing, drive or the gearbox? ?? Has anyone ever had such a squeaking from the wheel bearing? 3. What is shifting on the front axle when you give gas, you can perhaps conclude something from it. Actually, the squeaking metallic sounds, brake clatters still have lining (outside more worn out than inside) Thank you

Hello dear community, I’ve been having a problem with my Audi for a long time. And it doesn’t start on petrol anymore. But since a car gas system is installed, it’s all half as wild, because it actually only switches to petrol for start and then runs on LPG. And it also starts on LPG wonderfully. I still want to get it back in service, so I can also start on petrol again and drive as I like it I noticed when I’m on petrol while driving. switch, the engine continues to run. But only if I let it roll right after switching it to the accelerator pedal without kicking it. After that it runs a bit rough and then it goes. Sometimes, however, it doesn’t take any gas at all. I also noticed that I can start the engine right after I drove it and put it off again on petrol. Sometimes it runs on then, but sometimes it turns only briefly to about 1000-1500 rpm and then goes off again. Hope I could half Wegs understandably express…is not so easy to distinguish in the text between “give GAS” and “gas operation”. Greeting Funtiger83

When I bought my car C4 2.8 Avant Quattro, I was still good things to have arrived in the automotive upper class. At least I promised myself a huge step forward from the 84 multi-hp compared to my previous vehicle (B4, 90 hp). For a while it was also really nice. Drives fast, looks fine… It happens to me now more and more often that supposedly small and low-performance on the highway from the left lane. I should probably get off the road. Thoughts say goodbye, with speed 200 most Kia, Dacia and Focusse behind me. Usually it’s these different TDCI…TDI…FSI..DI…GTI…QVC Schei** boxes that rob you of nerve and belief in honest cylinder capacity. If I imagine that half of the boxes were subsidized over the scrapping premium (and thus with my money), then I could already break into the leather seats. I’m in favour of a referendum. Cars that don’t have 150 HP… A good citizen buys an honest car. That consumes a lot of fuel…and then it can be fast. But these small 1.2 turbo-direct multi-common-rail-drecks-130hp plastic carts go off like Schmitt’s cat. And consume only as much on 100 km as I hunt for warm running in my car park early in the morning. WHERE BLEIBTS THE JUSTICE??? 😉