Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

My C4 V6 2.8 automatic still doesn’t start! I have no idea what it might be. Again in short form, what was done: engine went off at the red traffic light and didn’t jump any more! At home it was changed: fuel filter, candles, various hoses, reverberator, fuses and pump relays. Problem now: no ignition spark. Fuel pump starts up, ignition control normal, starter spins powerful and soft / round. But, it starts the 4th week! I have isolated cables and installed new plugs, thought of a cable break, the error program has been read out, no interference except on the air conditioners. Switch motor changed, computer says: everything OK! So, now the question to all experts: what can it still be. I am now grey around the mouth like a dachshund. I am grateful for every tip. Here again the vehicle data:AUDI 100 2.8 V6, AAH, automatic, EZ: 03.1992, 195,000km Thanks to all of you! doc-Chris

Hello people, and I would like to buy an Audi 80 B4 2.3E (NG engine with 133hp) first registration 05/1992. The running power of the car is 338.xxx Km, color is red. TÜV has it only until this month so 12/2010. I wanted to know what I have to pay attention to with this mileage what is very vulnerable, what should I consider Is the high running power of the 2.3E safe or is it already critical here? What I noticed is the car running in the standing wallfre i without murmuring and murmuring, however at full throttle in the stand you feel a ”jumping” at the gas, what can this be nice? So here are the main points: engine and gear ? Does the whole cram hold out even more or should I rather leave the fingers off ? Carousel ? Is rust safe here or should I look for any nests ? How does this look to share with carrying ? Delicate in the 80s or rather harmless ? What should I pay attention to when buying ? W were very grateful for a few infos.

Hello guys, I wanted to ask if you can recommend me some good windshield wipers for my B3 which I could order on eBay or elsewhere and which are then in spite of fair price reasonably good? my last you I have always just bought somewhere on occasion because unfortunately all were hardly usable.

Since yesterday something clapped on the back right side of the car. Sounded like a tool, which lurked somewhere in the storage compartment sideways in the trunk. No big thing so. Since I have to drive 2 blags with it through the area, I then carefully drove to A.T.U. (forgiven me) and had a chassis check done. When the car had been so far up that the wheels had been fully springed, I immediately saw that the piston rod of the shock absorber at the back right away The mechanic looked at it and explained to me that the pole at the top of the cathedral (or wherever) would always hit at road unevenness and you should change everything. Springs, dampers… at the front and at the back, because it would make no sense to install only a single new damper with the old spring in the old chassis. Okay… A.T.U. ….. one hears like this. some things. Costs would be everything with installation 995,- €. In the pre-Christmas time certainly very unpleasant. Friends told me it would be enough to install on the axle completely new dampers. One could even take standard dampers, because the lowering would be significantly influenced by the spring length. I have no idea what this is for a chassis. What no TÜV examiner noticed or criticized yet… but today the mechanic told me…. the parts are not registered in the papers. Ha Is it necessary to see how I can get it right again. Question… Do normal dampers also go? Is changing the springs really useful? Can someone recommend a suspension or perhaps advise me from another? Vehicle data is in the signature. At D&W there seems to be nothing for such old vehicles. Ebay already offers some more articles. I tend to have 4 new dampers and the existing green springs, of course not from A.T.U. until the snow is gone, I will still have to ride the Quattro. Thank you

Hiho, today I drove in the city over a small hubbub, nothing special, then suddenly it clacked loudly and continued driving was not possible. The problem was also after the opening of the bonnet quickly turned out: the left front axle drive shaft hung loose next to the gearbox… Two weeks before I had the clutch replaced by the friendly, they probably had pudding in the poor at screw-fastening… the best was still the rear man who pulled me out pack the warning triangle pointed out that the road was not a parking space I told you… When screwing on I noticed that the screws were quite oiled (black). Can the transmission oil be? Unfortunately, don’t know what the transmission oil looks like Could the oil be the reason that the screws have loosened? No puddle was never under the car… Would you like to know if I have to go deeper (screw change, gear leaks?), or if I have to use the warning triangle. a thorough tightening and tightening of the screws first have rest? greet

Hello, I wanted to finish my audio for the nürburgring. I drive with my colleagues small race on the ring. We all drive an Audi 80 B4 2.0l with 90 Ps. Now I want to have more power than the others =). I bracuhe more Ps and a faster acceleration. Therefore I wanted to install another engine no matter which Audi blow thing it is fitting exactly to my B4. Tüv etc does not matter There are some things that have to stay: 4 cylinder petrol Sc Gearbox Turbo or doesn’t matter engine displacement doesn’t matter main thing 4 cylinders You might be able to install a turbo or a machine with a standard Trubo Do you know how to use it?

Hi guys, I decided to sell the Audi because the upcoming repairs, e.g. new exhaust would not have been so worthwhile any more. Since we give the Audi off on Tuesday, but the tank is still quite full (just 300km driven) , I wanted to ask how to empty the tank still quickly, because petrol is so expensive that I don’t have to give it away. achja senseless driving through the world history is not a sensible option for me. is the easiest possibility a Is the slope enough at all because the tank will also be relatively deep. Lg Mipla

Hi people, I’m now old enough to drive a car, and I got an audi 80 b4 quattro with 156 hp from my opa. it’s already deeper and harder but not deep enough for me. I wanted to buy a sports suspension now but I don’t know yet which because I just don’t have a plan of and especially not so much money, I would be very happy to answer lg Dustin

I’ve been having the following problem for a long time, but it’s getting stronger and stronger. So, when I’m driving with relatively little turen, it’s about 1500 rpm and then it’s full throttle, the engine is a short 1-2sec. (feeling like 3-4 cylinders) and then it’s back to normal. Sometimes there’s a couple of false ignitions, but so loud that people get quite upset on the road bike^^ In the cold state, the problem is the strongest, but it’s also warm, just a little bit. It’s just so extreme. Kertzen are almost new, control times are right (the timing belt set is almost new), ignition cables look good as far as I judge, distribution and runners actually look quite ok. Performance is also OK, so judged by the final speed, which at approx.210km/h GPS. In addition, I was on a performance test bench of approx.102KW about 1 week ago :-). At KE-Jettronic nobody dares to get there in the area…my master and even the Bosch service scheuc Is it from the Court of Justice?

Does a large air inlet ( funnel) that is installed in the direction of travel and connected to the air filter housing… any sense? I can remember that I once had a B-Ascona where one of the (over)motivated previous owners had installed something like this. I can’t say if the car was running so better than in the original condition. Thank you