Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Day would have a question: Why don’t I see anything at night when I’m driving, so I have H4 pear night guide 3 zones but when I fly across the villages I definitely see almost nothing. Light is set correctly. Autumn test 2008 Other cars have better pig throwers —–) or can someone tell me how that with the 100 watt pears is normal or halogen (blue) what’s better ……. or do I have to buy new headlights coating fades? 20 years old? Thanks for Sachdienstlic He Hints Pit

Hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey. I would never buy a new auo….just so older and more beautiful! And besides, I have an Audi, because I live near Ingolstadt, it’s probably self-understood! Greetz

Hello guys, I’m getting really desperate and hope you can help me. After my brakes get extremely hot after a few kilometers and a few times braking, start to squeak and stink like crazy (and already started blue), the workshop said that it is most likely the main brake cylinder and would cost a new part around the 250,- € (which is VERY too expensive for me). Hoses and wheel cylinders should still be ok therefore only the main brake remains. now I’m looking for it myself, but I’m not sure I found the right HBZ and here’s my problem: Does basically every Type89 main brake cylinder fit into my Audi too? ABS didn’t, but I saw that there are also cylinders for brakes WITHOUT brake amplifiers and I’m a little confused. Then there’s another one for vehicles with / without ABS, and with / without power steering etc. etc. which is the right one????? Which pas short the details: Audi80 1.6 (71hp/50KW) front disc / rear drum KBA-No. 0588 415 Actually every cylinder would have to fit in for B3 or? Only for “without ABS”.. right? e.g. the one here (the top):http://www.bramsen.com/…/article selection.php?… would that be the right one? If someone has an idea, please let me share it with you I really need to know

servus leude, I’ve already searched the search but found no correct answers. I’m looking for a sports exhaust system and sports suspension for my audi 80 abc avant. auspuff did I end Fox & K.E.R but there are still alternatives? I found nothing on the chassis. can you help me? what did you install with you? thank you in advance Greeting Thomas

Problem: My Audi B4 80 E2.0 built in 1994 obviously loses a lot of oil at the steering seal head! What can I do about it? Are there spare parts such as a new seal or do I have to get a completely new steering? Would you be very grateful if you could help me! Mfg Beetle

Hello to everyone am thinking about whether I should slaughter my B4 Avant 2.0E or sell it all over.What do you think?Here are some dates Audi 80 B4 2.0E EZ: January 94 130 tkm Tüv and Au until October 2010 (would get new without problems) D3 Klima 4x elkt. Fensterheber ABS elkt. verst. und heizbare Spiegel ZV mit funk und Klappenschlüssel Extras: Original S2 front bumper with SRA and rear bumper Abn. AHK Original S2 leather equipment black with seat heating Original S2 radiator grill board computer with minicheck additional instruments middle armrest leather black outer temperature display De headlight with new spreaders S2 leather steering wheel without airbag Zimmermann discs punched front and rear Red brake calipers front and rear reworked Original Competitione Spoiler lip front S2 underrun protection Votex roof edge spoiler with third brake light Audi 90 rear light strap platinum P61 new with 4 new 205/55 R16 only 1000km etc. What do you think would be better in the whole sale if yes what would be price realistic or in parts?

Hello For about two weeks, my Audi 80 (BJ.1993) has been getting very hot, about 100 C°. I think that’s too much. It doesn’t go any higher. In the Sadtverkerhr it still goes on the highway from about 130-140 km/h the temperature climbs to almost 100°C and I don’t think the fans go on either. Is that normal? Since today I still have a problem. The Audi jumped in the morning and after work quite normal. When I was at home the car stood about 1/2 hour and he didn’t jump any more. I did not jump in the M otorraum didn’t find anything abnormal. I probably tried 10 times to start the car and it didn’t jump on. I had then pulled off a hose from the diesel pump (I think) and solved a plug and infected it again. Suddenly the car jumped on immediately, even after a test drive and several start attempts the problem didn’t occur again. What’s going on? Can someone help me with these two problems? Can it be that the high temperature and the start speed all together Hanging?

As the title already says, I also jerked off with my Audi 80 ABK (85kW, Built 93). I have read some reports, but no one exactly meets my problem. With me, the jerking always occurs at a gas position. If I want to speed up, then a short dropout occurs at the said gas position, afterwards it goes on without problems. A permanent jerking occurs only if I remain on the said gas position. If I give more or less gas, then there is no cracking n. With this gas position a pressure point of the accelerator pedal is also noticeable, but always, even when I didn’t have that jerking. Ask for help, since Audi dealers and “Gelber Engel” have no advice but to install spare parts.

Hello all, This is my first post here, so I should do something wrong please muck quite loudly, ok? My problem: My Audi 80 Avant B4 2.0 E Bj.93 115 PS jumps great even in heavy frost, drives astrein so about 3min. until it gets a little warm. Then it starts to “jump and buck” when giving gas. When it is very warm then the problem has disappeared. 2. Problem: Regardless of temperature or weather, it simply does not bring its full performance. for a 75 HP golf no chance. My workshop has found a mistake with the air quantity meter (read out error memory), and I need a new one. It would cost 350 EUR. Questions to you: Can such a diagnosis be wrong? Is such an LMM cheaper? If so, can you install it yourself? (I’m not a hobbyist) Thank you very much in advance for your help and good driving.

So people have n extensive problem. I bought me a 89 Coupè with a NG (2.3l) engine. But he has the following error: If the engine is cold it starts off perfectly then it runs a bit unround but that gives itself after a two minutes. if you hammer the speed over 1100 you notice nothing at all. But if it is warm and I want to start it he only spins through and goes out for a short time. If I want to start it again he shoots for a long time bit he starts. Have a video of it gama =====> http://en.youtube.com/watch?v=IE4fJczKlQM What might be helpful is that a plug in the engine room is not infected but also did not find where it comes to. The is 2 polig. Hab n picture of it in the appendix. Besides, the coolant temperature always shows the lowest value although I have driven it for a long time warm. And when the engine is cold it clatters so komich at about 3000 rpm sounds bad. See video =====> http://en.youtube.com/watch?v=TrMsvtUY3Bk Hoffe you can help me. Thanks already in advance. mfg siX