Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello guys, I have a question and I have here an Audi 200 standing which has always been moved only short distances the last years and that then only with 50 km/h and rarely on the highway with approx. 120 km/h. Now I would like to be a little sporty on the road and ask myself, since I have heard that if an engine was not driven “right” over a long time should not turn so high, if I can give gas without thinking about it? Furthermore I ask myself for which How can I tell? Thanks for your answers mfg candlestick

Hello! I bought Borbet A 9jx16 ET 15 with 215 40 R16 tyres for my Audi 80 B4…fit in the wheel box, nothing grinds, actually everything should fit…so far so good. The next day I had an appointment with the TÜV to register but he told me something about the tyres the abrol circumference is too small…blablabla… ! Then he said if I put 225 45 R16 89V on it everything fits and he can enter it to me. Well … tires on it… looked shit out and slo are totally on the wheel box when the car is fully occupied!!! Can you do nothing that the 215 tires where were previously registered ? slowly all this becomes too stupid for me … can someone help me ?? MfG. Markus

Hello, today wanted to speed up my car strongly and I noticed that the engine will be very tough from about 3900 rpm even though I pressed the pedal to the end. After c.a 4500 revolutions it is no longer fun to turn the engine up because I feel it is not turning up anymore. It is as if the car is pulled from behind, but the engine fights against it. The acceleration is thus noticeably bad. The question is now whether it is due to the mileage of 275000km and an old it is normal from 19 years, or if something is wrong with the engine. If there are also drivers who have the same. ps: it is a two-liter engine with 113 hp

Hello guys, I drive an Audi 80 (B4) Avant and have the following problem since last week. With me the wear indicator for the brakes lights up, how long can I still drive with it or how to change the discs and coverings yourself,fals it is necessary. Have taken extra vacation to perform the reperture. Which special tools do I need to do this? and how expensive are the parts? I do this for the first time,and would be pleased with your advice.

Hello, soon it’s time for my Audi 80 B4 ABT to be TÜV Fältig are HU and AU…. Have ever renewed the engine bearing and will renew the right axle cuff before the tuv. My problem is, my first car is my first tuv in life… I’m afraid that I won’t get a tuv. Can you give me tips before I can watch out for myself? Should one go to AU with warm or cold engine Tuv is not 400m? Should I first warm up or drive the highway and blow everything out? Moto rwash make ? Questions, questions and questions ? Would I look forward to tips

Hello to all recently I had the diagnosis of the broken head seal after which I had all the materials and tools together I started to disassemble the motor after a short time was clear seal is not broken compression is also there but strong covering on the valve lid. everything made clean oil change made everything reassembled all tip top. now after 3 weeks again oil sludge on the lid where does this come from? water he also consumes against but no water in the oil.

Hello, since I already last year, after a very long search, got a sports exhaust for my A6 (C4) 2.8 Quattro, we have now also decided for a final pot for the convertible. I at that time had a 2×76 end pot made by the company BN-Pipes. The sound, the optics and the processing is more than brilliant!!! After a short “burn-in time” I had exactly the sound that I wanted. A nice deep “brumme, brabbele….” not too intrusive….but also I can tell you that is a final pot that has it in itself. So, now also a new one for the convertible ́her. The decision is not much difficult, of course again from BN-Pipes. Today he has arrived now *FREU*!!! Pure enthusiasm!!! The stainless steel pot is once again the hammer….. Tomorrow he will be installed now. A small “Schmankerl”, at BN-Pipes you get 10% discount if you are a member of MT! If someone is interested, I put 2 pictures of the good piece here. Dopp Elendrohr 2×76 20°. Greetings Frank P.S. No, I don’t get it for having mentioned the company here!!!

So people yesterday evening it happened. It was 17:30 then I started to change the transmission oil on my Audi. Said did find a screw which looked like the EInlass screw so first opened. Behind it was the soldering and a metal which pressed against the hole and was connected with the switching rod. It seemed strange to me because I had changed gear oil several times in other cars but such a metal which blocked the access I had never before. So I came to the “great” Id I said I pushed the switchbar to the left, pushing the metal part away from the hole inside and you could comfortably reach in. But then I slipped off and the metal went back and squeezed into my middle finger just behind the first bend of the finger so that it stuck about 2 cm in hole. Now you think for sure that was it but no it came a problem The metal had bent and moved sic h no more millimeters back or forth and so I stuck with really stupid pain. Then some came in the self-help workshop who wanted to help but that only made it worse. After 40 minutes we called the complete program (emergency doctor, police, fire department). Then thank God a gear spec from home came who really knew each other. He then began to saw the gearbox with the Flex and to break with a hammer. After 4 hours my finger could finally be freed w FAZIT: Finger has been squeezed thanks to “only” and still had enough circulation so that no further damage has been caused. Gear is scrapped …. Have I already looked at a new gear code is CDX I can also install CDV?! I see it positively so I can at least change the clutch at last …. So if you screw since carefully so that something like this doesn’t happen to you sometimes ….

Moin Moin………. So young, I really have a problem. I have the b4 ABK 115Ps 2.0L. And last week I had the problem that fell to 0 during the drive from one to the other sec of the tachometer from approx. 2500-3000 unmsrotungen, the car also did not accept gas. I rolled out then and then turned it on again……short time later it happened again, I drove again and after the 3rd time the car went on again after 5min. A few days earlier I had to overtake it, which he took alternately gas but did not after that again, so the car totally jerked and I was able to overtake with trouble and need. After I lit candles (they were totally through) and solderers changed hoping to have solved the problem, especially since it was bad when it was wet and moist, but he didn’t do this anymore after the change. yesterday was the same try again, I drove from the parking lot and was in 2nd place. or 3rd walk (before I was always in the 5th) and again he went out. But this time I came home with only one stop. today was nothing… the distance on which this always happened is always so 7km. Can anyone help?

Hello to all I once thought that a thread in which all users list prices of their repairs would not be wrong, so that you can take a picture. I just start, please always write to it whether at the Audi dealer or in a free factory town and model, preferably always the list copy and insert so that you have a complete overview. If there should be this post in style I at least did not find it. Allei prices incl. taxes and parts Audi Coupe 2,8 Free: windshield new = 243,60€ Free: timing belt+spann& turning roller+ ribbed belt = 378€ Free: climate Conversion to CFC Free = 270€ Free: gear oil change = 69,60€ Free: manual brake reset = 22€ Free: axle measurement incl. adjustment = 63,80