Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hi, I wanted to buy a convertible now on the WE. So far so good. The car has full equipment except for cruise control. Is check booklet stuffed up to 120tkm has 2 previous owners. Color is black Seats are beige leather. It should also somehow have an S-Line equipment ́( steering wheel and springs ). Airbag in the seats, driver and passenger airbag. Year of construction 8/99. Winter tyres and wind bulkhead. TÜV/AU are due in the middle of 2013. No tuned booth but original condition. 1. he wants to have 450€. Price OK?? 2. timing belt was changed 2005 at 119xxxkm. Should you change this now or all 120tkm mean change by 240tkm??

Hello dear Audi friends, I’m going to get an 80er coupe with a 2.0 ABB engine, I don’t want to do this again, I’m going to do this again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again, I’m going to do it again.

Hey I tear off my cover soon. it wants the cover box on devil and do not open. the cable trees in the tailgate I have both repaired, were broken, ZV was the setting motor in the driver’s door fried. I switched. now the tailgate over zv shuts off but not open! cover box also doesn’t want to open. have behind the side covers left and right each a 5pin plug which runs on both sides into the empty. everywhere there is nothing where you can continue the drive. meanwhile I want to believe that the for nen hardtop are wg disk heater. is now the control device from the cover defective??? the set motor from the rear flap that gets also to the open current but can not be reacted, can also be defective?? why does the cover box not open? it’s for crying!! the small dealer at the snap lock at the tailgate has at the push through to 2 lines so that it doesn’t seem to close on the 3rd door.

Hello dear community, some time ago I received the old Audi 90 from my grandpa. Unfortunately, there is already so much broken inside that the repair is not worth it for me. Now the question: Where to go with it? Should I have it scrapped or maybe there is someone out there who can do with it? Unfortunately, don’t know me with cars at all. Here are the technical data: AUDI 90 II 2.3 5E, 2282ccm, 100KW/135 hp, first registration October 1987, engine identification letter NG (KE-Jetronic), Km-Stand approx. 135 000. And here his “diseases”: runs only over 4 cylinders (because I couldn’t call a mechanic without having to disassemble the engine). Liquids run out (brake fluid & oil and perhaps other things, the mechanics couldn’t tell me). With the 4 cylinders he runs great, only the loss of fluids unfortunately makes him no longer fit for driving. I really liked him very much and would only have him reluctantly let him rot. Thanks for all opinions!

Hello together. I wanted to get an Audi Coupe, but I’m still a bit unwise. Should the round one be, I just don’t agree in a few things. Automatics would be more comfortable but I’ve read somewhere that is very vulnerable, also the drive shafts. So what do you recommend me, automat or switch? I would have fun at the 5-ends of the motorization, what can you guess me there? What about the Quattro models? Is the all-wheel drive robust or does it often like to break something, quattro or better? Basically I need some more background knowledge from people who have more plan of the technology. Repair my cars themselves but the Coupe is Neuland for me. Okay, the axles are probably similar to my convertible, cross handlebars like to wear out, cathedral bearings, etc….but what else is there to consider? Best thanks in advance 🙂

The one or the other knows my coupe already from other contributions I have just installed on a WN motor ne schrick camshaft 276 degrees n 36/36 Weber fall current carburetor head plan and 75cm diameter exhaust system of Simons without pre-muffler. My problem he runs like a 90ps 1.8er has the assumption that the main nozzles are still far too small There are 120 in it thinking that too little is the one if I pull the choke he does not quite the opposite he runs better with pulled choke, at 90 degrees oil temperature! Find someone who can give me some tips!

Hello together I have been having a problem with my car for some time now. If the engine has to bring a lot of power (e.g. steep mountain climbs or driving with the fourth or fifth) it suddenly doesn’t pull anymore. I’ve heard more often that the TDI likes to jerk and has different causes. In my case, however, it doesn’t jerk, it just loses power. The problem actually occurs in all speed ranges (lowest which I noticed so far was 2000, up open). So if I drive for example with the third strongly uphill it accelerates first quite normally to 80, then it doesn’t pull anymore at once and stays at 80 or even falls something back. If I then briefly walk off the gas he pulls again for a short time, but shortly afterwards he has no power again. I did a great service about 1 month ago, with which also the diesel filter was exchanged, but there was no improvement. I hope you can help me, many thanks in advance.

Hi there! Need a b4 tdi expert tip. My tdi (220.000km) is now rusting while giving gas. Not much, but still worrying. Small history: Had a few weeks ago the following phenomenon: – Drive every day about 160 km highway at speed 150. Suddenly a sudden power break occurred, then a short-lasting blue cloud out of the exhaust (seen in the rear mirror). After 2 seconds everything was ok again. Still drove to the next parking lot to look at the right. EVERYTHING OK!!! So I went on. After that I had about 3000km quiet and everything was quite normal, until I had to realize yesterday that the engine out of the exhaust black rusts when speeding up. Although not threatening, but already worrying. In the idle run everything is okay: No soot, no rattle, everything was fine. Because of the first incident, I thought that the turbo was broken or something. Have taken off today but the turbo hose. Result: I didn’t see anything normal yet?

Hello to my problem: It’s an Audi C4 Limo with AAR engine that has 240 000 km down. To my problem: I start the engine (cold) super turns but immediately after the start to 2500 rpm falls back then but to 950-1000, immediately start off is no topic however after 200-300 it takes bad gas and if I then stop and want to start again I first have to turn up to 2500 and slowly release the clutch and then I have a misignition in the air filter box. After another 500-700 meters the whole thing is over. If I start it warm (not operating temperature) and want to start off again I also want to start a misrecovery in the air filter box. And I always have a slight training wheel shake and sometimes swing swings, sometimes I have a training run around the 650 rpm then again 750 or 950 rpm. What I’ve already renewed temperature sensor 2 pole (orig. VW) Lamdasonde from Bosch Klopfsensor was able to give an oil hose nozzle and a new gas hose nozzle.

Hello people, with my 2,8 year 94 the ABS doesn’t work. If I fully enter blocks everything completely! The ABS indicator light lights up when starting – then goes out again. Read out error memory and ABS Stg. check are in order and without error, when reading out the control unit the lamp flashes then in AI briefly. Can’t that explain to me? Normally, should the lamp in AI light up permanently when malfunctioning?! Can you not manually test or run the ABS “pump” or ABS block as always the part means? Talk to 12V and see if it’s rammed? Because it can’t be on the ABS sensors, if an unplausible value would be delivered or none would occur at all when interrupting then a mistake would occur?! Slowly, really, and shortly before bringing the box into the workshop… Greetings