Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello, I have a problem again with my audi 80 type 89 Built. 90 1.6L 51KW !!! For a few days I have had the problem that it squats at the front left while braking, it sounds like it’s already on iron brake^^ But that can’t be because the documents are still relatively new (1.5 years). At first the noise only hit when it was wet so when it was raining! Now I have the creek while I brake (you can hear it only from a speed below 50 kmh) But the creek is not t only there while I brake but also after I let go of the brake and it is only then again when I drive away. When I was just on the way home, I noticed by the way a clacking or grinding front left. What could that be? Brake it does quite normal (yet). Otherwise I also notice nothing while driving everything like before just this loop noise. I don’t think it’s the wheel bearing that sounds somehow different. ken but maybe you have had this before and can tell me what it was with you?

hello now have my 3 chassis in the car had first ten 40mm then 60mm and now again 60mm every time you see no difference he stays from the height always the same it does nothing with me is the axle welded to the spring leg and otherwise I know it only so that you can screw the axle from the spring leg off one knows what that is why he does not go down from the height

Moin, as some might have noticed here, I bought a very well-preserved Audi 90 2.3 bj 89 a month ago and now he was stolen from me on the weekend. I already called the few tow companies within 50km of Ostenholz (Walsrode) and there is also nothing known with the police. I even had my immobilizer installed by the previous owner, because I put the car off at a sports home over the weekend (unfortunately not the busiest corner at the Wald und Wisen) And that someone has towed is also quite unlikely, because he was not standing on the road, in the way or something, only at the side of the road. However, with Teilkasko the damage is theoretically settled, right? Have read here now something from 1-3 months wait until you get money. But much money will not be given for it anymore?

Hello, with my B4 with ABK engine, oil has been coming out slightly on the side of the cylinder head gasket for 1 year (so-called “sweat”, but this has increased recently, so that I think it would be better to change the cylinder head gasket in the near future, after all, he has now almost 150,000 km on the hump with the 1st gasket. Have looked around me a bit on the internet, from time to time the talk of planning the head is a bit surprising. In the original Audi bases like The self-mach books do not talk about this, but just the indication that the flatness has to be checked and that it has to be planned in case of delay of more than 0.1 mm. This seems logical to me – as long as the head was not overheated and was dressed according to the specification, there should be no or only delay within the tolerance. How do you see this? Background: I have heard many bad stories about cylinder head seal change in free workshops (obviously misdressed and undressed). The problem with Audi/VW is the horrendous hourly rates (about 85 Eur in the Stuttgart region), so it can happen back again that after such a vital repair a salted bill follows. Would you at the same time replace the valve shaft seals at the same time? Many greetings, Alex

Hello you guys out there, maybe one of you had some advice for me I was shopping yesterday, and I parked my car in the parking lot. I could lock it up quite normally. When I wanted to put the shopping in the car, the central lock didn’t open 🙁 add that I can’t get the trunk on either. Can someone help me? Somehow I have to get the car from the parking lot because I’m dependent on the car 🙁 lg and a lot of Thanks already in advance

Construction sites are naturally tight, but when there is still a crazy sprinter on the fast track you should have the foot on the brake. Unfortunately I didn’t have it on it and could only pull it to the right when the dipster just looked over me and wanted to track on the right. Too little space and…. knarrrrtsch …..was my passenger side. You can look at the result below. My question now: but where do I get the decorative mouldings from? Egay looks bad at the moment.

Hello, I have an Audi 80 B4 year 1994, model year 1995, 2,0l 90hp engine identification letter: ABT approx.84000Km. The car has been running out of power for a long time. I have already done this: new spark plugs, new air filter, intermediate flange of the injection replaced, cooling water temperature probe first, ignition coil measured, is set in order, ignition time with VAG tester, fuel pressure and flow rate i.o., Compression is i.o. new Lambdasonde, Kat is empty since the old Lamb I don’t know what’s going on. Can you help me????

Hello today I took a closer look at my Audi once bitsl (since my battery (at -12°) failed and I had to grope). I found out that I have a lot of flying rust around the wheel boxes already. What can I do about it? audio’s should be so “rust-insensitive”. What do you do against it. My is just white and there is something that is noticeable. (our passat also has powerful flugroßt only with the dark color falls on only when it is “to be late”) I can the away polisher en? or any other way to eliminate?? does not want to lose my new schützling/liebling to the rust immediately. Thanks MFG PS: is en B4 TDI

Huhu, first of all Merry Christmas to all of you. I have now finally got my doorboards and the ads (Anti – Drön – mats) .. Now I want to build the whole morning .. Now to my questions: – Where are the screws that I have to loosen to get the door panel off? – How do I get the window cranks off? – Would you warm the bitum mats with a hair dryer or rather not? How do you always do that? – How long will I need per door about? Since I don’t have a thread in my search by answering all my questions I now open this one here, I hope this is OK. MFG Martin

Hi, I’m kind of fascinated by the car and wanted to buy it. But I need a few experiences, etc. 1.) Is it true that the body is fully galvanized? (for all years of construction?) 2.) How many liters does the car eat (lead-free or super?) 3.) how much is it currently in the tax? 4.) What does the insurance look like? How high is it rated there? 5.) Which motorizations are there? So the 133hp version seems to be the most common 6.) from when to when was the car built? 7.) what kind of flaws does the car have? 8.) what should you pay attention to when buying? 9.) how far(km) is the engine running around? 250,000? 300,000? ???? Is it worth buying such a car at all? Or is it far too expensive in the maintenance. I have read some of 10l usage, and how I find it very good for the size and age of the car. And above all, many old people still drive the car, so I think it might be easier to build such an Audi B4 good e I want to have a solid car. My current Mazda 323 BG is totally OK, but it’s a) too klaprig (thin sheet metal stop), b) he eats far too much 8-9l at 800kg for his size and c) he doesn’t have enough pressure(75hp) Achja: is the Audi B4 a rear-driver? Is this also available as a Quattro? Thanks already!