Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello, I just read that you should change the oil regularly with the automatic transmission. I read something of 60,000 km. I have been on the road with the car since maybe 90,000 km and wanted to ask, what you notice is that the oil is “due”. Sometimes “skin” my the corridors already very noticeable pure. Never bothered me… seems almost sporty 😀 Would this change now, however, if the car is dry inside again. Water runs on the driver’s left side at the disguise G down in the footroom when it rains. Would be a bit embarrassing to put the car in the workshop like this. So there is always a heater in it now. Makes warm, snow-free and hopefully also dry. Maybe someone else can tell me what to calculate for the oil change? Vehicle data is in the signature. Thanks

Moin, when I was just driving home, my clutch pedal allowed itself to be passed on about half the distance (everything was warm up until then, everything was normal) when switching suddenly extremely lightly, but gear went in nevertheless as if sounded slightly, and let the pedal come back, I first thought, it hangs in front, but then came back, only somewhat hesitantly… Thought already, clutch-over/or-taker cylinders were gone, but also in the next careful switching process there was no Probl em, gear was easy to put in, no noises or anything else, but since then the clutch pedal can be passed through extremely easily, and the grinding point has wandered backwards… I then arrived at home once gugged: Stop and start the first gear and go on smoothly, so coupling is reliable. Then I tried whether it slipped through, put in 3rd gear, tightened hand brake firmly, and let it come slowly. Just before the end it strangled the engine. .. So in itself everything works, only that the pedal is smoother when pressing in viiiieeel, and when coupling the grinding point is a ticker further behind, and the pedal pushes back itself with a little less force… Feels somehow a bit strange… In addition, I have a very easy vibrating or similar on the clutch pedal (feeling very easy at the foot), that was not there before, or at least not so pronounced, d if I had noticed it… So it actually points to a capped donor or taker cylinder, but since the clutch is doing its job itself, can it not be? Is it possible that there is an air bubble or the like in the system, which has now moved to a place that this strange behavior occurs? Do I really have no idea, and in the search I have come across only a donor or taker cylinder… Can anyone help me? Auto is my 1990s Type89 Cou pe Quattro with the NG engine… mfg Andi

Hello! As some already know I play with the idea of selling my Audi. Then it should probably be another 16V (type 89). Had 16V Quattro BJ90 before my B4. And I have to say I actually see only advantages over the 2.3. The 16V consumes on average despite the same weight (1270Kg). Pulls clearly or noticeably better (data according to Audi at 16V 0-100 9.1s and 2.3 9.7s) – although the extra power of 4PS is actually low. The disadvantages are the extreme Ö l consumption (1l/1000km) and in the lower speed range even less throughput. Ok..the sound of the 5Cyl is much better From the mileage the 16V should run just as well as the 5Cyl (so told me an employee of a VAG car dealership) Do you already have any experience with the two motors commute? Bzw what advantages and disadvantages do you see?

Hello, as many people wrote to me via PN because of my favourite transmission, here is a current status report and new sounder knowledge. By the way, the Audi has a relatively virgin HU behind it – so it seems to have not disturbed the examiner. Short history for the “cross-starters” … Before approx. 35tkm first bright noises during acceleration in 5th gear. Relatively simultaneously also striking noises in thrust operation occurred in every gear, forget about 10tkm later, the bright sound of the fifth gear slowly but surely spreads to the fourth, third and finally to the second gear. In the second gear it sounded a little more violently in the 5th gear and went towards the sound of the sliding gear. about 10tkm are all gears, except on the first, there is still nothing to be heard clearly, really nicely provided with howling bumps. If the vehicle is nothing can be heard from the transmission, but nothing can be heard at all. Before approx. 3tkm one hears a really unpleasant grinding and grinding noise in the second gear. Especially in the partial load range very well to hear and passes with full acceleration into the old well-known howling operation. A short time later also in the 3rd and 4th gear audible, but in the second clearly the strongest. I actually only used the 5th when I have connected to it Since then is t but also in the rolling condition, so no gear is inserted, a clear running noise to hear – even with additionally kicked clutch. For those who are interested, I now had the latest noise recorded. The microphone is quite close to the inner corrugated joint and the car is there. Only with the hand I move the bike a few times before and back. To the info: A few thousand kilometers ago I only have the light grinding on this thing. and the brakes are heard!

Hello people has someone’s experience with the RAID retrofit adapter?Unfortunately, it was too fast to be installed in the B4 (without problems) and mounted a 30s sports steering wheel but now the TÜV has shown me that I am not allowed to drive with the PROCON-TEN system (which mine has). Does anyone have a tip what I can do? PS: I have already made a request at RAID; if I call on the phone it is no information only by e-mail. But no one has registered for the mail since 3weeks!

Hello guys, I got an Audi 100CS a week ago. The following problems have occurred since I got the car. If the engine is cold and I want to accelerate from a low speed I almost run out of engine. Yesterday it went out on the mountain. What I also noticed is when I turn off the engine and after about 10-15min on comes an error message in the front of the display with a red oil lamp and 3x ring. According to the user manual I have to turn off the car. n and call the Audi Service. If I’m driving on the highway 100-120 km/h now it’s ringing away again. Have you got an idea what that could be. I’m going to tap on the gearbox. I think it’s licking. However, I couldn’t find a bigger oil strip. But if I look into the engine compartment then I see very weak traces of oil on the gearbox housing. What would cost me to get a transmission close again or is that possible at all. I thank you for your help

Hello! Would you like to sell my 80s in the near future? According to DAT he has still 2070€ dealer discount. What do you think I would get (private sale) 2.3E, Europa S-Dach (electric sliding roof), Ez 94 185000km, sheckheftgepflegtgepflegtgepflegt!!!, summer/winter tires, driver airbag, outdoor mirror electr. The following extras are still included: middle armrest, Ffb for ZV, rain sensor and just the spoilers etc. I made the side skirts because one has suffered in winter and out of it But if it were still repairable (but unfortunately it doesn’t bring anything or not much on the price) inside it is absolutely top and outside it only has a small dent on the tailgate

moin,moin sufferers and colleagues… I would need your advice and suggestions about what I could do. short description: audi 80 cabrio, 2.3, 187 tkm consumed in the city with really normal driving almost 15 liters on 100 km. I find that too much! what I have to say is that the “snorkel” was removed from the air filter box over to the bender. why can you think for sure…SOUND ! can the more consumption be related to it? and what can I do? n, or check for defective ones, what could explain the consumption? the days will renew the ignition plugs, the air filter and the distribution cap….. so, especially the young ones among you with real idea, please write a few tips….always many thanks…

Hello together, because I have shown here the catastrophic condition of my front brakes, but unfortunately find the thread no longer. at least everything is now renewed. there are new discs of carpenter and new coverings of ebc on it. with the coverings it is about aramid fiber coverings. so, now it is since the change but so that my brake sounds like a circular saw. also after the brake I have this high noise for a very long time. today I have the coverings again ra wes, because they were sitting very firmly in the guide and were greasing about it until they really let themselves be moved absolutely easily. but the noise is still there. does anyone know that, maybe one of the same disks / surface combination drives? I have now been about 500 km with the new ones on the road. while looking at my photos I noticed something else. is it prescribed which side you make the perforated disks? is there a running direction?? that I had b a the assembly not considered at all. here again a picture of the old brake

wants to share with you today an experience of me that does not directly have something to do with cars, but quite with “our” forum. when I sold my car the buyer wanted the original and not my FK grill. so I gave up an exchange offer FK for original in the forum offer, which also immediately MarcaCoupe reported. I was glad to have found someone that I already knew something from the forum and after we had exchanged the addresses I sent from When a few days later the original grill didn’t arrive, I sent Marca a PN, and he told me he had twisted the postcode and the package had come by. no problem, I just drove without a grill. again a few days later the post had allegedly lost the package after a fire. some more speeches back and forth I became suspicious and got his phone number and called. he promised to send the grill immediately. this is j over 2.5 months ago, I have no grill until today, he can be denied on the phone and answers neither on letters nor on PNs. after a last call this evening I will probably report. long talk, short meaning: I just wanted to warn you not to trust the people you mean to know too much, not to have something like that on your neck……