Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Finally…. I finally got a new (or intact) moulded sky for my worry child. It cost me 400 km of motorway ride, 2 chickenburgers and a green glow. Now I have the exact instructions, but wonder if I can use temperature-resistant body glue instead of the not exactly defined glue. From Audi I had picked out D172090A2 – 27,97 € or D190MKDA3 – 33,20 €. If conventional glue without the 4 rings on it fulfills the same purpose in itself quality, I would save a few cents, which I can then pump into the car elsewhere. 2. Question. Could one imagine a thin, heat-insulating position between the roof skin and the molded sky from ???, in order to minimize the heat effect in the future especially in dark vehicles? I am grateful for every tip. I wanted to expand the old sky carefully, if necessary make a print / cast off and then reclaim it in the expanded state.

Maybe something useful…I’m amazed that 3 billion people in the world have problems with the relay 30 and should always talk and answer in the search function……so,for all those who know this problem or have it for the first time!I hope to have hit it well with the following pictures, correction is desired…It’s no magic to find the relay and already garno witchcraft to repererate it.Knowledge with the bypass of soldering irons are helpful here (who knows you shouldn’t bite in there is already a step further)…To visit our friend ( Relais 30 ), we have to remove the cover under the steering column.There are 4 six-point screws of the key width 8(mm)

Hello dear Audi 80 friends, I have an Audi 80 Avant Quattro with a V6 2,6l. Now I have made myself a little smart about the installed engines and found that the engine consumes quite a lot and relatively little power which I did not consider to be a big porblem. A big problem is that the installed control units do not do well to the engine. one can practically do what one wants to do but they barely create more than 200,000km. I already have the 2nd inside and am at 177,000km the first had 220.000km down. Well now I look for a powerful and qualitative engine for this series. The consumption should not be very high (which would not bother me if it were not so), have as much down as possible and be well cared for. And hopefully not the problem with the control units. I hope you can help me, I thank you very much because apparently there is not much time left, because I already slowly notice that more and more errors, noise etc. occur. And said, I don’t ride like a so-) but I rarely say thank you very much.

hello to everyone I’m new here, would have asked a few questions about my new car Audi 80 2.3e Year of construction 1995 bought the day before yesterday because he ran really top no kicks at the test drive everything great until yesterday morning… he didn’t go to have battery overrunt funkt also nix dan to the workshop at my brother because we looked ignition goes pump demands quantity distributor goes fuel in and return run back but to the individual nozzles comes nothing therefore the candles also remain dry.Now my question lies on the quantity distributor you have to adjust the new one, actually he ran yesterday yes top… and yes on the float since he is broken it can not lie it or at the temperature feeler?because the work still didn’t want to bring the car to run so I can make TÜV on it and then I wanted to make a whole lot of new ones were nice whom you could help an azubi. what probably still helps the previous owner has driven with Ethanol but super after done so he didn’t have a control device etc for it should be nice to go out for me.

Hello in you round, don’t know any more. The problem: When starting up and only with warm engine, my “Susi” releases blue smoke. Temperature is about 80-85?. Is also only a short smoke bath and then is good. Ruckle or bad performance it does not. On the contrary. oil consumption is about 1l/1000km. Presumably: I first thought about the thermostat, because the display was crawling around for a while at about 70? and I had the feeling that the fans don’t start. Furthermore, the cooler is partly relatively cold, while the engine is quite hot. That the engine pushes the oil into the engine room due to the lack of cooling, the oil. Hmm………… after studying various threads in different forums, I’m not more sure. Can one help me? Thanks already. BP

Hello, you know, I’ve been having the problem for a few days now that the 2.8 AAH engine of my Audi C4 Bj 1996 only performs the service with ignition dropouts. The problem suddenly came up, I thought of a madder damage first and I checked the ignition cables and could not detect a real error, nevertheless I renewed it once, but no improvement. The spark plugs are in good condition. Meanwhile, however, I no longer believe in a direct ignition problem, because the fuel consumption has increased enormously. If it were a carburetor engine I would say it runs too fat. It sounds as if an old US-V8 had been installed, it bubbling on the exhaust. The idle control works normally, who I switch on the climate, regulates the idleness upwards. An observation: right after the start it seems to run completely normal, after a few seconds I hear a click down the left side of the footroom and then it runs completely unround, some ignitions seem to be missing, or in the much too fat mixture just stopped. But as said, the ignition is not quite normal, but the driver may not be able to jump.

sers people have already asked about nem audi cabrio and have noticed that my budget was “something” too little so I was yesterday a cabrio probe driving, from nem dealer. Now I would have bought some general questions 1. The thing has the 1.8 machine and was approved 98, has already 230,000 km down, new cover, looked in a super condition (as far as I can judge it) and should cost almost 4000. Is this price justified in your eyes? 2. How does the spare parts situation look? But wanted to ask me again about this at ner audiowerkstatt around the corner. 3. For me it was true that at first a car was not used to drive such an old car but it gave me a lot of joy (driving otherwise a Renault Scenic of 07) However, the engine seemed very loud (but can only be uninhabited) and I thought about it was a few years fun when I was running.

Good evening people, I bought an Audi 80 2.6 V6 today for 300€. The car is a 2nd hand vehicle, which had an accident damage at the front right. This was fixed at Audi in Hanover, 2x headlights, lock racks, both fenders, bumper, bonnet, fog headlights Both sides were repaired in the accident and repainted (value: 2214.72€) !!! The car has almost no equipment, only servo, ABS, El. sliding roof and the Wars. 297,000km ran (tooth belt 2012 at 274,000km). All in all a good purchase for 300€? In addition, there are aluminium wheels (no originals) with summer tires. However, I have two questions: The bi-cats are defective, Cheapest possibility to replace them? The front axle cracks extremely when steering, whether left or right. What could be defective here? Love greetings, and photos come from 10.06.2014

Hello together, Yannis is my name, the (exille french in Bavaria) I will do the practical test in a few days and hopefully create I am interested in my first car since 2 years, _The first came the 190 of Mercedes into question because I grew up with Mercedes and I wanted something safe and robust; but I later noticed that the 190er does not meet the safety criteria I need, drivers and co-drivers airbags + ABS are rare in such old cars _Then came the VW Vento, but that is just as expensive as a stinky normal 3er golf with 60 hp in the insurance _Volvo 850/S70 are also cars which are quite safe but for that the sprit consumption is much too high and I have to count around the 1600 € in the insurance _Heimatsauto: Peugeot 406 would have been a cheap solution but I would have been happy to see my driver with the insurance….which is absurdly high if I should expect further repairing _Now the Audi 80 comes in question:http://sam.mobile.com.com/recomm.com/recomm.it/recomm/regard/respubtpubt/pubt/publ.it/p.it/pl/ppl/pl/pll/pl/pl/pll/pl/pl/pllllllllllllll/plllllll/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pll/plllllllllllll/pl/pl/pl/pll/pl/pll/pl/pl/pllllllll/pl/pl/pl/pll/pllllll/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/pl/plll/pl/pl/plllllllll/pl/pl/pl

Good evening The following problem – it would be nice if you could give me a few inputs: Left drive shaft joint on the wheel side was broken, whole drive shaft was changed –> after the change the wheel would move in the mounted condition, i.e. had about 1 cm of game when shaking (yes, it is all tightened 🙂 ) It is not obvious where exactly the origin is. Now, after the drive shaft has changed, one hears noises when driving suspiciously sound like wheel bearings. Dumbly asked: can a broken wheel bearing cause such a game? Thanks for your help and greetings Karin