Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

hi at my 80s TDI I filled up the brake fluid at the end of october, as the warning light turned on. since a few days, the light starts flashing again at bumpy rides. at the end of october I left approx. 2-3mm air to the max. stand. today I looked again and now it is about 2-3mm above min. stand. but I could not detect any stains on the floor until now (is mostly on bottler, which is usually wet at the time or on grass where you can d as not seen) under the tank in the engine room are also no “wet” spots. do you know perhaps what this can be about? can not be that I can refill dot every 2-3 months again. have also suspected that he consumes oil. have made end october also oil changes and there was the stand on max. now it is about 3 mm under. Thanks mfg

Hello! My car has now stood about 2 weeks because of a presumably defective cylinder head gasket, have a lot of oil in the cooling water which is now fed through the – 20°C! Can you drive about 100 meters into the underground garage or should I push it?

Moin, I currently have a Golf 3 1.4l with 60hp and I need a slightly faster car, the acceleration is actually fine, could be a little bit more, but I’m not satisfied with the 170km/h as top speed, it should already be more than 190km/h. For almost 2 years I think about buying an Audi 80 B4, now my questions: 1) I feel a clear difference in the acceleration between the Audi 80 2.0 with 90hp compared to my lahp 2) Is a 90hp motor enough to reach the 200km/h limit or should I buy an Audi 80 with 116hp? 3) How good is the Avant with the 116hp engine? What are the differences to the Limo version with regard to technical flaws?

Hi, I’m fresh here! Wanted to click me through, but I didn’t find anything to my problem, maybe you can help me. I bought a 86 Audi Coupe (great car), there were 30 Fintec feathers in it, but the car always drove uphill! At ebay I bought new springs 70/50 (Cupline??) and installed yesterday (only in front), but the car is still as high as before? My colleague drives the same Coupe, with the 30 Fintec feathers, which lies deep as s My coupe is still doing great, so he’s not lying on the front of the dampers! I solved the rubbers from the triangle handlebar once, they don’t keep the car up, so what’s wrong? Could it be that I have any change on the suspension leg? Thank you so much for tips! Greeting René

hello my friends 😉 the belt tensioner on the driver’s side no longer pulls the belt properly, if I want to strap off and get out. the belt even often hangs in the door when I reach it. otherwise, however, it still works 1a, so safety-wise. ask: can I remove the somehow and clean/oil? or rather buy a used andren, if that bothers me so much.

I think the topic has often been chewed through but I still ask, how much liter should an audi 80 b4 tdi with 90 ps be allowed to consume approx. in this cold season time. we have at the time temperatures from so -10 to -13 degrees and he needs average 8 liters on highway and land road (driving rarely in the city) without being overly strained. isn’t that a bit too high???? my car had since buying to the problem that it from time to time locked off until one from the ga spedal went and stepped up again. Consumption approx. 7 liters at temperatures of approx. + 15 degrees. a hose was leaking and now it funzes again, but now it comes to me that the sprite consumption has become higher, but it has become colder as already said. have my car only been a few months, therefore no experience!!

Hi guys, I was with my C4 at the Tüv, and the car failed due to unequal braking power of the rear brakes. I then had the rear brake replaced by a colleague, because the brake blocks and the discs were pretty low. Again on the brake test stand, and the uneven distribution became even worse. The right brake caliper almost stopped from the number 1 (10 kilosNewton?) . The left saddle continued to pack. That was only the case with the hyd The braking force of the hand brake was even. The caliper was not fixed at the brake block. It could be screwed in just as easily as the left one. Both saddles were also made superficially clean. The things were also completely dry, so no loss of fluid. The brake fluid was changed almost 2 years ago (will definitely be changed this evening). Does one of you have a tip on what that might be? I personally did not have any I’m not really in need of the experience, like a real car mechanic, either. The colleague with whom I fix the whole thing is a car mechanic. We couldn’t quite explain it so far. Since the caliper is smooth and dry, we actually assume that the caliper is in order. Especially since the hand brake is ok, should it only be due to the hydraulics, right? I got the rear brake hoses and replace them tonight. easy one of these is defective and leaves only a certain limit of pressure to build up. It is such a guess of me. Buy and install just 2 new brake calipers for just under 300 euros is now also not necessarily my favorite hobby. Especially since the car has cost me 600 euros in the last 2 weeks. I would be pleased about every tip. Greeting Christian

On the other hand, as one or the other may have noticed, I had an accident with my coupe and now I have to renew the side wall to the right. I decided to repaint the whole car immediately. Now I can’t decide at all which colors. Who has a mouse can recommend me now just color, best with picture. Who has a long time and knows how to get in touch with Photoshop, I send then a picture It can really every Fa be rbe, just no excessive flip flop please. I would also make two-color. So A-B-C column and roof in one and the rest in another matching color or something. Thank you and all a nice weekend greeting – capo

Hello! My Audi 80 (1.8S, BJ 11/1987; JN engine), still starts badly in the cold state. I always have to give gas, otherwise the engine dies immediately. After about 10-15 seconds the engine runs almost normal. I have already changed the temperature sensor (white) but the problem still persists. Maybe it is possible that the cold start thermo-feeler is defective? This is expensive (75-80 €)! That’s why I wanted to ask in the net what else to do. Greetings

Hello, I’m trying to tell you what they look like at the moment. And how this was done earlier. At present I have massive problems to switch from the 1st to the 2nd gear in the morning…The resistance to insert the gear is so massive that you have to tear the stick in…It’s going to crash so wonderfully in order to avoid the “crashing”, I’ve noticed that you have to switch off from the 1st to the idling and then down to the 2nd gear. Then it doesn’t crash anymore, however, d it is still very massive when inserting the gear…All other gears can be inserted quite normally, but also with a slightly lower resistance (and without crashing) …When the car was moved by 10km, the cracking has disappeared when inserting the 2nd gear. However, the whole switching scenery can still be switched very “crazy” … In the past I did not have any problems in cold or warm condition…Every gear, whether switching up or down, read itself without The complete opposite of what is currently in demand… But what can these problems be? I don’t believe in worn-out synchronous rings, as they don’t break from one day to the next… Last year in December Steffen and I changed the clutch, could something have gone wrong? Does the clutch possibly not separate properly? What could this be? After the clutch change, the Sc After that, these problems had disappeared almost completely for a short time, but are now there again… Could it also be that these switching problems come from defective engine bearings? The engine had to be tilted to the rear when the gearbox was removed, maybe that gave the engine bearings the rest? And now the engine and transmission move so strongly that it is no longer possible to move a gear. future? I am greeting with my Latin at the end