Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello together…. …just build with my son an AAH motor in a Coupe prepared for the Rally-Sport…. Unfortunately a lapsus underrun: …a 2-pin. socket with corresponding 2-pin. cable (colors: yellow/grey and brown) the label seems to be lost and we don’t know where to go with the good part….the cable comes from the large cable harness, which goes in the direction of the control unit and is a little longer than the other cables….the switching image I searched three times and found nothing….control level indicator for brake fluid is also not (also yellow/grey and brown and also two-pin) …have attached a photo of the socket with the dirty hands of my junior`s… Maybe someone can help us….best of all thanks already….

No… I’m not the seller or one of his friends! Just just bought a crossbar for my fat guy after I had been looking for it for a while. Original Lemförder for 60,- € the piece! And the dealer is not in China or Poland. I bought 2 handlebars. But the seller has immediately set up new handlebars, but now for just under 72,- € the piece, which is still cheap for Lemförder and compared to other offers. Should only be an info for those interested who have such a high handlebar wear as me.http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=361032461868http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=361032399612 I hope the tip helps a (further) of us to save some coal. mfgg

Hello, I bought a track rod for my ZF 4HP18 transmission (Audi 100 C4 2.6E), because there is only one stop on it from the house, which you can’t measure. (at least for some versions of this transmission) Now I drove the car now 10km warm and then measured the ATF stand according to instructions. And the bar shows me a clearly too high value on….that goes already beyond the upper ball on the rod. Can that be? Shouldn’t the car have some problems when switching? Just before c.a 20,000km at AaM in Düsseldorf let the ATF change….should I be surprised if they had filled in such a large amount of too much. The reason why I measured it at all: A friend recently bought an E46 320ci with the ZF 5HP19 automatic and the thing switches like butter….you really notice garnix. Running performance is almost identical to my… My 4HP18 is also soft and reliable, but you can see that it’s a little bit of the kick and the result?

Dear community, I am terribly sorry if I address an already existing topic, but after 1 1/2 hours I have just searched 140 of the 1394 pages and so far not found nearly something similar. Therefore my question: Can I install the ADR engine in an Audi 80 B4 Limo or Avant, which is also in the convertible? Suppose I have the 2.0E ABK and would like to put the 1.8 ADR or AEB & Co. in from the B5, does that fit? I am looking for a cheap winter car and have a budget of 4000€. However, since I like the B4 quite well and have known it as a good car, I would prefer to buy one of these and possibly plant a more economical/stronger engine. Ask for constructive contributions. Thank you in advance! Greetings, Oldenway

Hello, my Audi 100 has an undisturbed idle. If it was cold he didn’t have it and turned at good speed but I found it is cold, because it’s exactly when I gave gas with the pedal once afterwards he doesn’t spin very deep and unround I would turn on the car and just let it run it purring like a cat what can it be? It’s a 1.8 liter engine [DR] Bj 1983 Dear Greetings Marc

Hello and moin moin, Have currently a problem with a reverberator. Vehicle: Audi 100 V6 2,6L 150PS BJ.93 So now to the problem: The Audi does not start. No ignition spark. Have read out the error memory: reverberator no signal The power supply is usually just like the ground line And the funny thing is the control unit 9V on the signal line! I thought maybe a Maderbiss. Have measured the cables it is all in order. Did then the directly measured on the control unit (cable tree deducted) DIRECTly on the pin of the signal line lie also 9v. Usually I shoot through with a voltage on the signal line every reverber. Is this car an exception? Have the control device already exchanged there is exactly the same “error” present?! Has anyone ever had the same error of you ? MFGG

We would like to start our own VW & Audi Oldschool Cars – Schrauber Club in 1996 and we are looking for some new members from the area Mosbach, Ludwigsburg, Stuttgart, Heilbronn, Sinsheim, Main – Tauberkreis, Schwäbisch Hall Kreis, Crailsheim, Aalen and Heidenheim. Who likes to be on oldschool cars from VW & Audi and would like to screw his car from the ground up, then also like to drive at the club life and at meetings is very welcome with us. The following VW types are welcome : Golf 1 – 3 ( also Cabrios ), Passat 32b – 35i Facelift and predecessors of the 32b, Corrado, Derby, Jetta 1 – 2 / Vento, Polo 1 – 4 ( 6n to Bj. 1996 model 1997 ), Caddy 1 – 3, Käfer, Bulli 1 – 3, VW other. The following Audi types are welcome: Audi 50 ( Polo 1 ), 100 ( with Quattro or without ), 200 ( also with B 1995 or B 8.

Hello, my Audi 100 has a pain again. When I was on the B6 at 100 km/h on the way, suddenly the oil-pressure warning light with Summer lit up for about 10 sec.. I then stopped right away and checked the oil level, but that was OK. Can happen I thought and then drove on, but after a short time the same game nevertheless this time I found out that after decoupling it immediately runs out. Did any of you ever have this error before? Do I have to change the oil pump or is there another cause? I say thank you. MfG Martin

HI, I have a problem with my Audi 100 C3 Avant, which has been standing in my yard for quite some time now, as I simply can’t find the error. The car has 98kW and 2309ccm. So, according to my research, it’s probably about the 2.3e NF engine with the Ke III Jetronic. I’ve been stuck with the car after the engine only ignited in shock and then went completely out. At the moment, the engine goes through, but doesn’t jump on and doesn’t seem to ignite at all. I’ve already changed the fuel volume divider in the course of the troubleshooting. At the top of the volume divider definitely comes fuel, since when the lines are solved, immediately gasoline comes out. However, even after a long time the ignition plugs are not visibly wet. I also noticed that the volume divider’s damper valve after the start attempt could only move very hard. Is this normal? An ignition radio is available on every cylinder according to the Stroboscope lamp. I have checked the control times and the ignition, but it seems to be in the valve valve, and can still be in the cold.

Hello… what it’s all about is already in the headline. I would like to give you an instruction… So that I know how the ignition coils have to be occupied. Is this possible already true? 1. switched plus (15). 2. Mass from the power stage where cylinders 1.2,3 are killed, the brown/white cable. 3. 5VDC signal coming from the power stage or the steur device. Cylinder accordingly. 4. Mass, is attached as before to the valve cover. or is it different with the ignition coils from the TT RS. Can it even be that these ignition coils do not fit in with the engine? Bzw. even more than just the ignition coils have to be changed? Should ignition coils have to be with integrated power end stage or?