Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello, with my Audi 80 – 89 PM without ABS, without servo, both crossbars and carrying joints were due. Now the steering wheel is crooked and the front wheels no longer cursed with the rear. I arrive at the axle measurement on Thursday and so I wonder if there is a method to adjust “grob” track and fall so that my new tires do not take advantage of each other. Another question, under the crossbar there is the Stabi pole with a thick rubber drum. On the old crossbar there was such a slightly curved bell which was inserted on one side of the crossbar in a notch and screwed on the other side. However, the new crossbar has this notch and therefore cannot use this clamp. Since Tüv is due, the question whether this has something against it if I use a proper “building market shell” made of metal, which at both ends has a screw and nut together. Unfortunately, is not original, but otherwise I don’t know to connect crossbars and Stabi with each other.

For some time now I have had some problems with my combination, or much more with the ABB machine installed in it (80 Avant, 2.0E, 115PS, EZ 06/1993). Everything started with sporadic jerking at the beginning of the year. At first only when accelerating, shortly later even in thrust operation. I changed the relay 30 at that time, which caused the problem to be gone for the time being… When it was jerking again after a few weeks, I changed the hose piece on the valve of the crankcase ventilation, because it was totally bloated and added. I thoroughly flushed the valve can itself. Then it was quiet…. until this morning! However, this time I have a much more critical problem: the engine is no longer on its way! I can press the gas pedal on the floor plate, but the colleague ABK trembles a little bit in the empty run. After that, I already lost a little bit of speed, but no breath of power. I was allowed to park and wait three times until the Zicke has recovered again? But now I have no suspicion of this change?

Hello! my friend and I bought us an Audi 80 2.0E 115 HP – year 1994 on Saturday. (Payed in). Now I wanted to know how big the tank is and what the car has for a consumption. The seller told me that he needed about 8-9 liters (depending on the driving method) however, sellers are always a bit inaccurate when it comes to selling. What can you say from your experience. After the tank size I forgot to ask, but would not know what theoretically goes in. What else do you have for experiences with the Audi 80 – 115 HP year 94. I think it is a quite mature car and even if he has already 173,000 km on the hump, he should still run for a while. Would I be very pleased about some answers. Until then I remain with a triple thundering “Helau” from Mainz on the Rhine 😉

Salute young, I have the following problem with my audi 80 b3 1,8l bj. 87. Before: Oil pressure is ok. Oil is enough in it. Display on the measuring rod center. Oil pressure switch (black and white) change. Problem: If I switch cl. 50 (motor start) lights my oil warning lamp permanently. As if the pump was defective or too little oil in it. But unfortunately both is not the case. When acceleration sounds then also the warning tone for too little oil. If I plug off both oil pressure switches is logically the lamp off but when the acceleration is done the lamp and the warnon goes on anyway. Sometimes for half a second… sometimes up to 10 seconds. But the pressures are all ok. I really don’t know any more…. about help or a tip I would be so grateful. Thank you, Gruss Matthias

Hello, actually I am looking for a B3 with 90 hp. With the model I would like to think that the 1.8er can be moved quite sparingly. But I have already stumbled over a few quite interesting B4 with 90 hp. But the B4 probably has a 2l engine for the 90 hp. Is this only a drilled 1.8er and thus comparable economical, or is the B4 with 90 hp significantly more thirsty for drink? With fuel monitor I came to about 1 liter more consumption, whereby the two models in the search can not be so easily delimited. Can this come to it? René

Hello dear community! I have been the proud owner of an Audi 80 1.9 tdi BJ 1993 for a few days now. I don’t know so well about the 1.9-er tdi engine, but I have really good experience with the predecessor, the 1.6-er td(i). And now to my questions: 1. I’m surprised that any pump runs after the engine is switched off in the engine compartment (is connected to the valve for the turbo limitation). Is this a normal function? What’s the purpose of this? My battery was taught yesterday, had this follow-up under suspicion… 2. The engine itself doesn’t feel particularly strong, but does not develop smoke when giving gas. It runs through (some mast), but at a speed (about 2000 rpm) starts to whistle loudly at the turbo. Does that say anything about the condition of the loader, or should I look for a leak in the cover? MfG, Attila

Tach too, I’m about to replace my recently sold Golf II with a very nice B3 of 3/88. I’m afraid now that he’s installed the JN. I’m afraid because I’ve heard/read a lot of contradictions about the possibility of the Euro 2 upgrade so far. Some say it’s not possible, others say it’s possible again, with a Kat upgrade. I haven’t found a KLR yet. The PM was introduced only 3/88, so I don’t assume that he already has it… Any tips so far? Thanks already…

Hi together, I hope that’s right here. I wanted to start a little discussion on the topic of replacement part politics on the part of Audi for our older models. Reason for my inquiry: Drive an Audi 90 B3 and had heard of part man at the friendly one “falling out without replacement!”. Finally with the cylinder head seal! I ordered then an accessory from Elring, which should be at least as good. Another example: I was a plastic T-piece for the air-cooling of the injection nozzles broken (after 26 years the plastic is just not quite fit anymore). Unfortunately it was something special, in the inside of the T-piece was in each direction a small nozzle that left only a limited amount of air in one direction and had to create certain pressure conditions. So I could not use 0815 T-pieces. Falling out without replacement! By luck I still came to such a part of a dealer’s question, but then it would have been stupid and I had to make a little bit of air. So I could always somehow get out of the accessories, or needed parts of it. But I didn’t need to think about the same situation?

Hi once Googled but still found nothing useful , have the 4,2, the engine makes problems and since I don’t get it on euro 2 and I personally liked the 5 cylinder 20v very much I thought I could install the AAN so that I could get euro 2 , someone experience with it ? what you need, what it costs , etc would be very grateful , a link to such a topic would also have nice 6 course hand switch , hp2 , 10*1993 for helpful answers I would be very grateful since I open my motor at the weekend to watch why zyl 3+4 have no compression

It comes from the left bank, when you are standing in front of the car. Very clearly hydroshunchel tickern,or? I did the recording after about 7km drive. History: The last thing I noticed was that my V8 was about 1-2 minutes after cold start, the hydros are starting to clap. A few minutes later the spit is over. Before I made the video now, the hydros remained quiet after cold start (show effect? ) Then as I said about 7km and then the recording was done. After longer drive I don’t mean to hear a ticker anymore. Do I have to think about it, or am I just too sensitive about the engine noise? Vehicle: Audi V8 3.6l with 253tkm, oil I drive the 5w50 mobil1. Video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLfODXW51IA&feature=youtu.be