Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello. I’m looking for a car for the transition at the moment. I’ve already looked at 2 Audi 80 because I just like the car. Budget 1250 Euro. In exceptional cases more. Had always someone who is the mechanic himself. The first Audi 80 was really scratchy. The second looked great off to the fact that the automatic turned off a bit rough, but I think I’m normal at that age? What we found was the steering gear, it was a bit leaky and the bellows were torn. In addition, the outer achmanchets were over. The engine was the 2.0E 115 ps. My colleague advised me in every case off of buying. Steering gear would cost me 500 Euro with luck. Repair/sealing should not be allowed. The dungeons he calculated with 100 Euro material per page. Now it’s so that he told me at the time of buying my Octavia 2 2.0 TDI DSG. I still bought it and had a lot of joy with it. Now I saw on the net that the above prices were completely exaggerated. And slowly two Achfe a little bit of the car should not be able to buy it again. Now I need a little more of his opinion.

Hello, I’m driving an Audi 100 2.8e that actually has a double-cat system. Now it’s the case, however, that the previous owner has flexed the Kats out, so that he probably has better sound, because I have to do the Tüf, of course, I need catalysts again. Since the rear silencer is also not the true one and the connecting pipe in the middle also leaks I would like to install a completely new system. Now I could get quite cheap a complete exhaust system with cat and silencers from the A6 C4 2.8er, which has only one cat, but is technically identical. Now my question, if I rebuild the complete system from Krummer, that fits then and is for the Tüv ok, because the sonnst 2 Kats has ? mfg Overroller

Hello dear friends, I have again a problem with my little one and my electric window lifters only work sporadically. At least until yesterday. Yesterday they gave up the mind. So the whole thing announced over the last 2 weeks that my Fens-terheber did not open or go. That was still given up at first and I could open or close it after a few minutes of driving. Yesterday it was too dry for me for the air conditioning system and I had the driver window open when I and he arrived work but unfortunately I couldn’t close it anymore……. so I had to leave the window open and indeed the whole night and also today in the morning nothing had changed about the situation. So you see I am in a primer position… and if you can thank me if you can help me. In addition, there is still a question on which security hang the el. window lifters? Because I can’t find Dei on the backup occupation……. even if that can’t be the case all the fuses are completely there, it would be me in the best regards already!

Hello to the forum, I am not getting any further with my B3 (Audi 80 Bj. 88 PM-Motor and KAS-Automatik) at the moment. Somehow I am standing completely on the hose and ask for your help. I just recently bought the car and quickly found out that the distance between the wheel and fender to the right and left are not the same. OK, the car was not really expensive, but just. At first I thought it was a track error, but after the setting it only came out what I initially thought was a wheel offset between right and left of 11 mm. I have now changed for safety both lateral handlebars and both supporting joints with the success that optically everything is again with – bad – old. But from below there is no frame delay visible. The U protection and everything, nothing points to an accident. Can one align the aggregate as such or are the holes only intended for one position of the assembly? Thanks in advance Heiko

Hello community, someone might have an idea what exact values the heating wires have in the C4 seats? I found 2 cushions of heated leather seats in the basement today. Lean and seat. Both are due to multimeters the heating wires. The temperature sensor in the seat still has resistance, so is at least still existing. The experience has shown that a patched, 22 year old heating wire usually no longer has eternal life and at the next possibility breaks elsewhere. I had therefore thought earlier to replace the old heating wires with new wires with the same values. The installation of a modern carbon heating is not an option for me. I would have the new wires slanted, following the course of the old cables… in slots, which I would cut into the cushions obliquely. After inserting them into the slots, I would probably stick the slots. So the wires remain free of glue, which I do not necessarily consider as a disadvantage. Brüchte als teiligen der Mitchiedermittelt.

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Greetings in the round of the freshling! Bernd is my name… Have there to the cracks of you a question regarding instrument cluster. Problem: expansion AI. I found and read the basic things about this here. I.e. 4 screws loosen and KI slowly pull out of his cave, turn and solve the three plugs, twice by levering the holding clamp and once pull together the two clamps of the third plug in front of it – so far so well… Now I notice a not described wired fourth part (centered on the back of the AI) – probably a … lamp? To at least two cables go to the plug, are also secured with tape against accidental release (soldered). Now I stand on the tube. Is it a light, whose socket I can possibly turn out – pull out?! The socket can not even be turned. To illustrate a few pictures: Ki from the front.

Third and last question for today – promised. As mentioned I build up the Avant after purchase piece by piece again. I want to give the engine from painful traffic jam experiences on the A7 – which will employ me the next 12 years around Hamburg, some remedy. Since the cooler has already blessed the time, a new one comes. Instead of the standard single fan engine would like to convert also to the double fan equipped with belt drive. This also has only one engine and drives the second propeller installed in the fan housing passively with. But now it’s tricky: the currently installed standard fan has a 2-pin plug with omitted middle contact. The engine of the future double fan housing has the same plug with mid-clock (= 3-pin). Who knows what the third (mid-pin pole) is needed for. Evidently for an additional fan level on half power? Can I ignore the one? I only have a two-pole control, but I don’t have to connect to the 3 pole fan engine.

Hello together, well as already mentioned above, it smells like oil during or after the ride. Basically rather if you have already driven. I was in the factory today, they told me that the “cuff” is called so? on the steering gear is defective, because you can already see the metal. Or the steering gear has to be replaced. This would cost 700-90€ without working time alone?! My question now is whether the smell can really come from the cuff or from the steering gear, which oil is transported to the outside through the defective cuff? Servo oil was about 2-3cm below minimum, that they have naturally refilled. In the area behind the engine below is also oil grease to be seen on the components, but nothing serious. Do you think that it is plausible or you suspect something else? If necessary, I also like to take pictures. Thank you already

Hi, I got an Audi 80 with the 2L (133PS machine). Since I don’t know how to do that, I have 2 questions. The first one is: almost every morning, when I turn around the key, he only hums. I assume that the starter is a bit stuck. As soon as the starter spins, it starts immediately. Is there any way to fix the problem without buying and installing a new one? And the second question refers to the radio. In my opinion, it’s already retrofitted (blue point cassette radio). I turn it off. When I turn off the ignition it’s still in operation (clock time is displayed). Then I always take out the removable cover. Is that necessary? Does it make a difference for the battery or similar? MFG Rhey16