Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hi guys, I’ve got a 32-piece Raid steering wheel. In the ABE I can only install the steering wheel if the tyre combination is right for the car. And tyres I have 205/50/R15 on it. Are these not normally approved rims on the Audi 80? At the Tüv I was unfortunately not there myself because I was at school. I didn’t have to do a Tüv but only let the chassis and the exhaust system take off. But that’s what he told my father. And if there’s an accident there’s supposed to be Sc There was no TÜV Süd but one where GTÜ or GTU is written on it. MFG Dom

Hello, I have found something new again, when the 133PK NG engine is warm. If it is warm (130 degrees), as well as in the picture, I drive just about 160 km/h at 9 degrees/dry outside temperature. It then unfolds its power very funny when accelerating, until 4000 hesitantly normal, then suddenly it pulls once, as if it had a thrust and then again slow to little acceleration. That probably the circuit switch is defective, I have already tested, see picture. I turn it off/on it runs normal again for a while, then after about 10min. it stays stuck again at 1150-1200. In the last days I changed this: – battery 72ah – 10W40 oil + all filters – spark plugs – fuel pump + filter – thermostat + sensor – 2x oil pressure sensors (which has lit) What else? – circuit switch! – petrol pressure regulator possibly – KAT + Lambda KM STAND: 215,000 Someone else valuable to say?

Hello freaks, my exhaust system got the rest over ́n winter. That came to light when changing on summer flaps. Now I wanted to exchange good sound and MSD and ESD for little money. I noticed today ́ under eBay an Ansa package (NEW). Hopefully I did not do anything wrong. I bought the complete package incl. shipping for 125 euros. The ESD has a round 70s tailpipe (well, 90s would be better?) and both mufflers have E 3 test number, so actually entry frequency i and no ABE required, right? Who has had experience with Ansa sports exhaust systems? Wishes a nice summer, MC

Moin, I’m thinking about selling my Audi because due to my distances I have to travel on the day, I want to buy a diesel. Now the question what can I take for him ? Data: Audi 80 B4 2,8l V6 Built 10/1991 running almost 175,000 Km Equipment: 4x electric window lifter on-board computer incl. car check mirror electric adjustable + heated rear window Cd radio blue point final stage Audi Sport steering wheel sliding roof Seats have no damage Carross: Audi S2 Sc Season Audi S2 EN lenses Headlight Audi Cabrio Wheels 16″ with 205/55 ZR 16 Fulda tires 8 compartment Tired winter tyres Michellin on steel rim FK – coilover suspension (on request also with original suspension) H&R front track plates (30mm) Color: Black Metallic …Sitze ebendfall Schwarz Tüv: AU/HU bis 10/2011

Hello.After I have got a new KAT under it now because my car only 130 drive I have the following problem. My car drives according to NAVI only 160 maximum and so many times if I want to start I only see control fights and nothing starts. I have to repeat this then two three times with key turn until it starts. temperature indicators everything in order.New battery, air filter,Zündkerzen also the fuel consumption has increased by a lot in my opinion so to 12-14L . Meanwhile he also has 235Tkm but ASU is new so Lambda is fine.What else can it be??

Salve…. My ABS controls absolutely next to it …. at low speed the pedal can be pressed briefly, without any braking effect – however with clear control noises (no pulsating pedal) – you press more firmly – so to say over a clear pressure point – you place a full brake …. So I checked the sensors – resistance measurement with standing wheel – and determined the following values: Left back: 1,095 Ohm Right back: 1,085 Left front: 1,099 Right front: 1,10 4 I’ve already read various threads about ABS – but I don’t know how to interpret the values… So now the price question: Which one is in the bucket…. Thanks Bernd

Signal from the engine running !? Is there a signal in the Audi 80 b4 that the engine is running ? I would like to pick up with my carpc so that the start of the engine stops automatically when the engine is on !? is that possible ? a friend meant many times over speed meter that the one detectable signal gives in the form of 1 volt or something Oo (have an automatic, have no speed indicator Oo for that ne giant clock Oo xD )

Hello together, I know there are already some threads with ATU and problems, but I don’t know exactly where that belongs, so I was on Wednesday at atu (date 13 o’clock), for oil change and cooling liquid exchange, well they said that takes 45 minutes, so I am 14 o’clock again and wonder first of all that the car is still in the workshop, when demand comes out that the water pump expires!!! Since I already thought only of the liquid change can that not be, right??? b then said that you should repair (260€)!!! The next day I come back there the car is not in the workshop but outside and with open hood, asked again what is going on, says the master that he only runs on 3 cylinders and that the cylinder head seal is in the ass!!! then he wanted to click on me that this costs so about 1000€ and that you are not at all responsible for it!!! Now my question what should I do, it can not be there s I put the car completely in order and with almost a completely scrapped motor now it is possible??? Does someone have a tip for me like for example: a expert or someone who just proves that the car was destroyed at ATU??? I hope you can help me

Yes Hello to all V6 drivers and of course all other Audi drivers. 🙂 I have in small problem that in the training run at 850 rpm and only when the engine is running warm my Ventiele clackers oil pressure is available enough 2.8 bar in the training run as soon as the speed is raised to 1000 rpm it is a little quieter but still available. I tried all possible oils from 0W-40 to 15W-40 with VW Audi standard of course. I also made the hydro-punch all new. n suspects about the thing that I can hardly imagine…. is that the camshafts have gone so far that the hydropumps can no longer make up for the game because yes the guide sleeve at the bottom of the hydropump is only up to a conscience measure with me it comes out about 1.5 mm through the oil pressure and thus the game compensates. and if this becomes too big it does not manage and it clacks. with a mechanical one can set it with adjust screw or insert Blättchen etc. someone already had such a problem or is there the possibility that these have entered or is there a measuring procedure for this engine? for wear limit of cams etc? with diesel engines there should be also such problems???? thank you in advance 🙂

As it looks, some of the small but annoying problems on my vehicle are based on a defective motor control unit. Now my questions: 1. Is the cruise control part of the motor control unit? 2. Are the control units always the same for the same engines or are there differences between the manual/automatic transmission, B4 or C4…? 3. Can you just connect a new control unit and start driving… or do you have to adjust/program something? Thank you