Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

hey, will be 18 in just under 3 months, currently 125ers driving and then wanted to buy a car at 18 and sell the motorcycle. therefore I thought about buying nen cabrio because of the fresh air etc^^ most cabrios I don’t like, like golf 3 cabrio- are simply women cars I thought about the cariolet type 89, looks my opinion by great- beautiful, square, sporty and something “old-fashioned” of course have read all possible about the sufu, but given I don’t find much to the 4 cylinders gasoline, so the 2.0 and the 1.8. the 6 cylinders are too thirsty (with a brisk driving around the 10-12l?) and the 90ps diesel certainly doesn’t pull the butter off the bread… would interest me if the 2.0 or the 1.8 have enough power for such a heavy car and which of them is better. how would you judge the maintenance costs otherwise, if you can do some yourself at the car? my uncle has on the farm i.e. a complete workshop with lift stage, I could do a lot of things, I hope. achja insurance-like I am due to 2 years driving experience and family discount to about 65%. my budget is so at MAX 5500 and the car should be as much as possible one of the later construction years, on equipment I can do without there I hope you can write me your assessment of my situation and my project!

Hello, I need urgent help!!! My Audi is totally spinning around, the first signs were that he did not always want to start immediately despite a brand new battery. Was it then on you could watch that when one had light on and consumers like rear heating, fog funnel, ventilation has turned on the headlights getting darker. Ok went a few weeks like that. Then I had a total failure on the way, noticed how headlights, speedometer light and ventilation became weaker and my Benzi nanzeige wanted to tell me that my fuel is empty (which was of course not the case), when he was out of it. Did bridge him and drive home, then again did not go on without help. Then tried it again because after bridging again everything correctly indicated and had juice. I drove a short distance then he started the stinking, smelled spilled. Then we put in another alternator in the hope that the Mistake was, but unfortunately it wasn’t the case! Came about a mile, then the battery that we had charged was empty again. But a few new phenomena were added: Oil, water and battery lights flashed like crazy while engine was still running, rev counters jumped up and down from 2000 to 0 and backwards without the speed actually changing. Yes and gasoline display also makes such jumps empty half full etc. Who knows the problem??? Because Lima and battery can’t nic I’d be happy if someone could help me… Mfg

Hi guys, I’m driving an a80, year of construction 89, type B3, 90hp! The car has inherited from my grandpa and now for about 12 months. My problem with the cooling looks like this. Temperature indicator shows almost always 110°C!!! Cooler fan has never jumped as far as I know. What has been done so far: Termperature sensor changed (already longer ago – after starting the engine an excessive temp. was displayed immediately (warning light) What was done yesterday: New thermostat installed (before) tested, opens in boiling water about 8mm) Oil changed water pump removed – rotates slightly, should be 0 problem for your belt, however, we have seen slight wear marks in the counterpart of the pump on the attached wing, should the function not interfere however!? Various hoses tested – all have flow top hose of the cooler filled with water, draining hose kept – cooler completely emptied after 1sec! Reperaturmaßna After we had installed the new thermostat and had no improvement or worsened it (cars overheat after about 1km), we tried it with ventilated air, took off the temperature sensor and waited until water came out there, after which the return hose of the heat exchange system of the heater was ventilated. After that, the fan closed in at approx. 110°C (ca. 10se) for a short time. old and we were able to cover a distance of approx. 2km without probs (or with the overheated Tep.)! To this we have to say that now the cooler slowly warms up from the upper hose and afterwards the lower one – both was not the case before! !!!When changing the termostat we found a thermostat which consisted only of its basic structure – so he had not the function of the open and close!!! Conclusion: someone tricked at the cooler system to fight the same prob wa So far an improvement has occurred because the cooler starts again, but at a questionable time! What we can rule out: Thermostat hoses cooler has at least flow I would be happy if you can help me with ideas! Gruss Daniel

Hi together, I found this car: http://www.brauchtwagen.at/detailansicht.php?id_fahrzeug=842967 I already drove the engine in the a4 as quattro and in the c4 a6 as quattro and I like it. externally, however, I like the b4 better, especially as a kombi, moreover, I think that in winter the diff lock is useful (and also more fun is honestly the seller told me that he needs oil and the timing belt is probably due. my mechanic (vag vertragwerkstat) t) has told me that they make head seal, which like I have read at other places already with these models gladly makes problems, and timing belts for 1k €. how much would then be ok for the vehicle to lay down (the required 2k I certainly will not sheet)? to the cart: deutschland->österreich import. she is the 2nd owner in Austria. at the weekend I look at it personally, any tips what I can get as technically interested, but lay on it? am also for experience values on your part open. thank you in advance for your contributions

Hello everyone! I turn in my distress to everything knowing and ignorant, looking for the solution. Because I’ve been having a problem for quite some time. But first to my car: Audi 80 Coupe Quattro Bj. 92 NG (exchange block series 85) with gas conversion And now the problem: I don’t get the Audi cold, and the fan only runs when it’s getting warm. So at least my researches. What was done so far: – Cooling system flushed. – Thermostat changed – 3Poli the switch for the fan changed – thermo sensor changed What has not yet been done: – oil changed – cooler changed (due to the ridiculously high cost) So that it is the head seal I doubt quite simply, because the cooling water is absolutely oil-free and the oil also does not show any starting point of foam formation. In addition, the pressure indicator shows no worrying values during the ride…. the temperature display ensures this. So during the operation on the Autob The cooling temperature is usually between 90°C – 100°C and the oil temperature is so close to 130°C. My question would be now too. Would “wasted” oil provide an increased temperature? And what else could you recommend to me what I could look/check. Thank you for your help! Small note to the end: For all those who think the temperatures are in the green area: No they are not!

Salü alle zusammen ! Have a Coupe type 89 Bj 93 with 2.8 liter machine a little problem with my summer car and I just can not get behind it. I bought the car with 54000 km – at that time the noises from the front axle were still much lower than today – now I have about 90 000 km on it and it has become much louder—- I describe the sound to you:It sounds dull , occurs especially when I drive over cobblestones or with every batter- it is no hard knocking (trag joints and silent bushings are fine) it sounds like a dull-speaked dub. Are these the cathedral bearings, the coupling rod or any rubber bearing – do you have a sketch? Thank you already in advance Reini

So what do you think of this car is the 2.o liter but for the first audi should only be enough! So your opinion is worth the money for the car???Data: Used vehicle, 97,000 km, 85 kW (116 hp), petrol, manual gearbox, first registration: 10/96, HU: 10/08, AU: 10/08, grey-metallic, Special features: central locking, leather equipment, light alloy rims, seat heating, electric window lifter Description: 1.Hand, check booklet, 5-speed gearbox, window lifter electric 2-fold, radio/ CD , Color glazing, Power steering, Leather, Alu,5-speed, Color, el. FH, met, R-CD, Servo, SH, ZV, PRICE: 5990€

Hello guys, about 2 weeks ago everything started… Vehicle always stank for gasoline… nothing could be found at Audi… Today I noticed that from the wheelhouse (right in front) petrol dripped… right to the friend and everything opened… Behind the cover is a black box and there drips gasoline out. The line from the tank leads in there and a line leads back to the engine… What is this box? Would have now typed on the filter but I am not sure… and how can I fix the problem? Have now for the first time clamped the black box and connected the two lines with a clamp.. direct injection is destined harmful to the engine or? is an Audi Cabrio 2.6 Bj 96

Hello people! I am at the end with my sparse experiences and therefore ask for advice on my problem. It is the car of a very good acquaintance. Problem case: Audi 80 NG 5-cylinder engine – warm start. If the engine is cold starts immediately and runs round. After about 10 minutes of operation at the stand, or about 5 minutes drive is no longer possible restart. But if I close the (upper) temperature generator (2 – pole) at the engine block connection before the cooler hose briefly then jump d ie car. A change of the feeler did not bring any improvement. The ohm value decreases in the warm state. I have already found a lot from the forum and did these tests: 1.) When the engine runs I can plug off the pressure regulator and the engine runs almost normally – no death. 2.) But if I take off the engine oil cover the box also runs further. 3.) Cold start valve for test times with warm engine. But don’t jump on. 4.) At the CO screw I only want to unimpaired. The previous story: A screwdriver has changed the air filter and since then the error has been. The screwdriver is not so much knowledgeable with the thing … Another acquaintance has let his colleague run with the diagnostic device to the box and he has read the error with the temperature sensor. Unfortunately, the Latin of the screwdriver is now also at the end … Another acquaintance has given me the tip with the throttle valve. Where is this part sitting? Would you like to try his test, that I can hold the hose, which goes to the quantity distributor (?!) sometimes, because his guess goes towards the throttle valve, that it is always open…?! Would be a hit if I could get a picture info. I found a picture of the engine here: Motor greeting and thanks from the Salzburger Land Peter

Hello, I haven’t been here many times, but I’m a diligent reader of the forum. I bought an Audi 90 Quattro 3 weeks ago and I’ve been looking for a long time. Now I came home from work yesterday and couldn’t wait to finally drive it in the snow. As fate wants, the journey ended yesterday evening for me and my Audi, after I’ve been thrown full against a tree and stood in the middle of a field. There is no longer any rescue for my Audi. The right side skirt is now 20cm further under the car and my B-pillar has also moved. I actually never wanted to give this car back and make it right for me, but now I can probably only slaughter it and look around for a new Audi. I still put pictures in when I made some. Mfg Hobby_martin