Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello friends, my grandpa bought an Audi 80 (B4) with 90 hp in 1992 as a new car. He always cherished it and cared for it … with a check booklet of course, as is the case with pensioners. The car has no scratches, no bumps and of course no rusting. 3 years ago he was then the last time at the TÜV, 2 years ago the last inspection (never missed one, always with the VAG partner). After that he drove home with it, put it in the garage (fully filled). In the hospital he was operated on – both legs were removed. Since then the car has not been moved (inspection as said 2 years ago, respectively 20 km) and stood in the garage. In June (or July) the car was then deregistered. He has now not quite 133,000 km on the tacho and meanwhile Grandpa has realized that it makes more sense to sell it. So I took him to the Bosch service. After a check through the screwdrivers there: new tires on it, motor oil + filter and battery changed (was defective) and had TÜV and AU (without defects) done. Car started immediately and runs well (with a red number about 20 km driven) At this point I could use your help well … what else can one demand for such a car? It really looks like out of the egg and is in impeccable condition. I would call the color dark wine red metallic (sh. picture) Does it make more sense to put it in the newspaper (near Münster/Osnabrück) or even better at Ebay? I am really grateful for your hints! Greeting Jörn (salt cake) Oh so – here’s the picture (because of color):

Hello dear community I once sat down at the end of the week and made my car really winterproof. since the sweet from next year winter car should be equipped also. what do you do or should you pay attention to everything before the winter at nem 80er b4? so I have frost protection in the cool water, windscreen wiper system filled up. car battery refilled. what cost me about 10h was my underfloor. here I freed all underfloor part 1 from rust – jegleche n rust with the felx removed 2. with long-term rustproof paint painted wheel slope with rustproof paint front slope with rustproof paint rear 3. underfloor protection 3ply pinned over -on all metallic parts (wheel suspension, side skirts, wheel boxes, brake lines) 4. cavity preservation in any intervening rooms 5. all rubber seals or axle cuffs lubricated with graphite grease are otherwise any childhood diseases or similar?

Hello everybody, today I sold my AUDI 90 Quattro heavy heart, but already long overdue. I just ran out of time for this hobby. So: eyes to and through, “hobby resolution” Well, the car has gone into good hands and is also in good condition. I was still for sale at TÜVNord for the purpose of checking through and except for dissolved dust protection cuffs on the shock absorbers and a 50% one-sided handbrake was all “plate-fit”. two AUDI freaks came by in a Type81 coupé and appreciated the good condition of my 90s, gave me after a short negotiation what I wanted for it. That was very important to me, because actually I didn’t want to put the car away but before he was acided because of “dead” the boys should take care of him. In addition, our Golf 2 went away last weekend and on Tuesday we get a Passat TSI Variant Jo, accordingly depend I am officially from this forum area, but will certainly look in here and there. CU and thank you for the help, tips and suggestions!!!! Markus

Hello, so as already mentioned opener my 1.8 PM after 337,000 running killometers makes slowly but surely sluggish. For me also no problem further as such things do not evade my professional knowledge. My question is now whether it would be cheaper to have the piston rings re-made (as these are so from the bottom of the line you don’t believe) or whether it is cheaper to shoot a new engine at Ebay oä.? Thanks already in advance Mfg Julius

Hello guys, I recently bought an Audi 80 1.8 S B3 Type 89 as a second car, especially for the winter. The car is year 11/1987 and runs so far still quite well. Now I would like to ask you for your help with the following problem. Since some lamps had failed in the instrument cluster, I had to worry new ones to replace the bad ones. Said, done! First everything went according to schedule. When I had replaced the defective light bulb for the fuel indicator lighting and there The only lighting that still works is for the digital clock. Otherwise all other lamps are dark! (DZM, Tacho, Motortemp.-Display and Tank Display) Can someone tell me what it can be? All other functions, such as DZ, speed, tank content, engine temp. and the control lights for Batt. oil pressure etc. are still in order. I have also changed the corresponding fuse already tried out, le ider without success! Could it possibly be due to the rotary control for the brightness setting? What is surprising is the fact that the newly inserted lamp for the digital clock works, but all the other newly used lamps and the still existing original incandescent lamps do not! I cannot explain this circumstance. Thank you for your efforts! Greetings from sammy_140206

Hello guys! I scraped my scorpio and bought me a short time 100er Avant 2,3E year 1990. Cool part! Four years older and 100,000 Km (305,000) more on the speedo, but goes like a hack. Now my question as a new front drive user: Front drive is always praised as a panacea in wet, ice and snow. When I buy new cars at approx. 50-60 Km/h in the 2nd gear (wet road) , the wheels turn through and the car pulls me right off the road. Wa Is that normal for a frtonttriebler of this power? I preferred the rear drive… …sack cement in the back and off.

I wanted to remove my right front wheel the other day, I turned out all the bolts but the sow didn’t want to take off?! (of course up) I did with a spare wheel, it didn’t work. I turned the wheel bolts back in again. Now I want to change a coupling rod myself tomorrow and the wheel has to go down. how do I get this off without destroying anything? Does anyone have a hint? Greetings

Hi, I’m thinking about whether I should get a 200 Zeller metal cat. Normally there is not even an expert report. Now at ebay a dealer is offering the parts with E-signs AND E-test number, which is the most important one. Can I mount the then calm conscience?

Hello You would have liked an experience worth or better asked is it normal that my Audi 80 construction year 1988 is drinking a liter of oil at 1000 km? It doesn’t smoke blue or anything else. And has been eating so much oil since my whole time (5years), it also has no broken seals and runs great! Thanx

Hey, I’ve got a car that I’d like to sell. So it’s an Audi 80 / Type 89 / 1.8l / automatic / Built. 1987 about 92,000 Tkm run at 80,000 km of gears and spark plugs new at 50,000 km of braking system rear new. Condition. 1++ So Absolut TIP TOP. Lack 1+ inside 1+http://www.bilder-speicher.de/07070412227741.vollbild.html What can you ask for ?