Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

I have already asked in other forums, but there have not been sufficient answers so far. And now it is getting tight with the time. I have an Audi 100 (44) if it is of interest. I was at Tüv and a slightly damaged rubber part was discovered on a wheel suspension. Small part, big price, because the rubber alone is not available, but only the complete part and that would cost at Pit-Stop in about 250 euros, plus installation. A little bit a lot. So we clarified that I had the part I also found something on the internet and the cheapest provider (NK) has the part for 76 or 96 euros. Depending on which one, because I don’t know which one to take. I asked for it at a workshop and they recommended me to buy the part for: starting from chassis number 44M 002674. But now my number (easy ge-x-t) looks like this from WAUZZZ44ZLN080xxx WAU means the manufacturer code. The three Z before the 44 are part of the series, Audi fills unused places with Z’s (I think). The one Z after 44 is a test number (Z in this case probably means unused field, because in Europe, as I have read it somewhere, the test number does not matter), the 44 the series, L is the model year and N is the manufacturer’s factory. I have found out so much by now. 080xxx is the continuous number (here partly made unrecognizable by xxx by me). Important for substitutes In this case my number would be: 44L080xxx There is the same component once for up chassis number 44L11380, 44M002673 and then starting from chassis number 44M002674 I asked in a workshop. Although you saw that they didn’t know each other either, but somehow they found out the part by way of detour. And the part is according to their opinion starting from chassis number 44M002674 meanwhile ic I would rather type on – to chassis number 44L11380, 44M002673 -. L means the year 90, M the year 91. My vehicle was built and registered in 90. The double number for the component probably because the same model was built in L and M. It is all a bit confusing. Who should I believe, the workshop or me? No matter what part it is, because the one part has a bolt v 18 mm and the other 19 mm. What do you think?

Hello, I have now bought an Audi 80 Cabrio Bj. 1996 with 2.6 L automatic. I have a few questions for you 1. On my way home it was so about 550 km much to me with half tank filling on which the tank lamp turned. I immediately refilled to the next tank on the highway and 10 L. After that was again quiet for 50 km, after that again the same that the lamp turned on, what can that be? The display is still almost to half full. In the display there is something of 8.9 L average v. 2. Since On both sides of the seatbelts the seatbelts go very long again in reserve. 3. Both seats can no longer be folded? 4. When starting it smells strongly like fuel, (outside). Does Euro 2 5. In driving mode it makes strange noises from the drive, these go away again when gas is accepted and higher speed, I guess this comes from the tires, are Nankang mounted, but can also be something else? 6. The ignition lock is a bit difficult and you have to press this in the starting position with the key about 3 mm only then the key can turn? So that was it first. Greeting Pit

Hello together. For a few days now I have the feeling that my battery is gone. Since the starter turns very lightly. Motor starts in itself nevertheless well. Have measured the battery today times – had 11,8V without engine. That’s okay, isn’t it!? Is it now due to the battery or something else? MfG

moin people… had this morning a very violent confrontation with nem opel corsa c… my ng coupe is so much deceptive that a new construction is not possible. will post the days ma n couple pics…can still take a little while, because the race management took both carts… but don’t blame… the opera took the lead from me at 75 km/h without braking into the side battles so in foreseeable time my coupe bj.: ́90 mkb: ng gkb: amk titan-mt. (ly7p) graue stof f-innenausstattung… -almost new uniroyal winter tire 185/65R15 (11/07 mounted) on original 5-spoke 7jx15 already the somewhat uplifted version… but have to be reworked and repainted…therefore also winter rims have a fifth (with mechelin-summer tires) -schwaze D&W-Alus with toyo proxess st1…round 5mm and more…tüv-expertise -koni-sportshuffler with 30mm fintec-spring prices on request… think that of the motor not too much about i but will look at me the days ma now look at me after a worthy successor around… have two fundamentally different vehicles to choose from.. either will n a3 1.8T or n 2.8er Coupe (preferably quattro) but you have one thing in common… both audio mfg coupé89

Hello I bought myself an Audi 90 20V (MKB: 7A) yesterday. First registration 04.1991. 5-speed, front drive. The engine has already over 260 000 km down. Now it only starts with a lot of gas and does not start properly (the engine fibrates easily). But in the stationary gas it actually runs at constant speed, it just fibrates a bit. An oil change has probably not been done for a long time, since it is totally black and the painting of the oil filter is also completely “road rusted”. The oil level with the oil measuring rod was not detectable anymore!!! So I first made an oil change (but without a filter). So get to work and see what it is that the engine has such a mute. At first I thought that maybe the engine has a light screw, but the oil pressure was there… . I looked at the engine, and I noticed that it sucks quite nicely behind the 5th cylinder. Besides, the engine could run a light air outlet solidest during If you have held your hand behind the 5th cylinder (over the flywheel) about the height of the cylinder head gasket, where it is powerfully sucking. Could that be the head gasket? So I guess it’s pretty strong (especially since the original owner suspected it too). The cooling water is OK, but the oil smells like gasoline. Oh yes, and when the engine is running it always makes the pfff pfff pfff. And if you give a sudden gas, then it’s so weird.. So I hope it’s the K opf gasket and not an eating flask or a mechanical defect (especially at mileage). So what do you think?? mfg steftn

Hello…the first problem of the season. have discovered that water has been collected in the footroom of the passenger side! I had the problem before, but that was due to the plastic cover on the windshield at that time (had been spoiled by the age) water ran pure over inside room filters… however, I immediately replaced this plastic protection and the inner room filter is also dry this time! is there still a weak spot?? where could the water get into the inside room?? hole in the side water flow, which would be funny?!? please help me, water is so gruesome Greetings with 5 cylinds…Ränä

Hello everyone, I’m new here and I have to ask you something urgent: I bought the Audi 80 B4, Bj 93, 2.0l, 115 hp, approx. 140tsd km a few days ago. According to the owner, the vehicle has been standing in the garage for almost 1.5 years. Now I’ve been watching the tank display since then and I’m really shocked. Come with 22 liters of super only about 150 km!!!!! That can’t really be, can I? And I drive very restrained jetz at the beginning, just because of the long service life and stuff. if at the beginning after such a long time somehow has to “get in” again and then actual for (hopefully) short time a lot of about 15 liters on 100 km are needed? If not, how can I get this down again, there is a possibility besides the usual tips like ” avoid short distances”, “turn off at the traffic light” and “up in time”? Can an exchange of the lambda probe remedy? Or is there any other part that you could exchange besides the Motor ? Would be very grateful for helpful answers… Grüße Nikeeta

Hi leude, am new here in the forum driving an 80er B4 2,0 90PS. Finds here someone who would change an audi 80 B3 90 PS MotorKnb. JN for my 80er B4 90 PS Knb:ABT..? Condition should be technical and suspension so my vehicle data ^^ Bj:1993 90 Ps Engine identification letter: ABT KmStand: 248000km Colour: Wine red Emissions class: Euro 3 (controls 135€) Hu: 07.2010 Au: 07.2010 Renewed parts:Reversing handlebars Rods Brake hoses so hir a few pictures http:/ /de.tinypic.com/view.php?pic=24g6s5f&s=4http://de.tinypic.com/view.php?pic=1zvdi5v&s=4 ps: if you want to know anything else just write ^^ mfg

Hello you 5 Ender freaks I have read so many posts and found out nothing. I ask the questions so that you only have to answer a few words. – All 5 cylinder blocks/sumpes are equal? Except for the bore – In theory, the heads fit on each block too? Piston/slurry aside. – How is it with the VOLVO 5 Zyl these are not licenses or the former Audi/VW engines? – Is otherwise anything to use (of Volvo)? I ask this because I have a If I take a block from the NF, for example, and a 20v head from a different crankshaft from another, etc…. with the valves that does not stand in the way of the debate, I have to be ready for the first time. -Project plan: 5 Zyl 20v with compressor (instead of climate compressor), not too much power but rather more stable and suitable for everyday use. And compressor because a lot of city or stop and go. If someone has done something like this before, he can give me tips for the following. -Compressor? Which one? -Kjet? which one? or not? What else? -6 gear from the V8? -LK? -Exhaust dimensions? -Electronics? -Does a Quattro remodel or a better base 200er? Have I explained to some extent what I have in mind? I hope you can help me before I buy something crap that I can’t use. If all this makes sense? My opinion is that the complete turbos and 20v ́s are generally traded far too high. Well, 100% doesn’t have to fit everything, just want to know what I would have it the easiest! Now you’re on it…………………

Hello everyone! So slowly I think that my luck grip was rather a handle in the toilet.. I finally bought an Audi last week, this time B4, 2l, Bj 93. Slowly but surely the flaws show up. Now I think biggest problem: in the cooler a thick oil film has accumulated and when starting a blue cloud blows out at the back. According to the opinion of a friend this is a sign of water somewhere in the engine where it doesn’t belong. In addition, he jerks with the constant gasge and after several hours of standing I had to find a large puddle under the engine compartment. It is a blue, watery liquid, but it is also slightly oily. ASSISTANCE!! What can this be? Is my cylinder head seal over? And where does the puddle come from?? Ask for urgent help! I am grateful for all the answers…