Audi 80 Avant with D-3 Kat Vehicle category: Used body: Combi/Van First registration: 01/1994 Kilometer: 223.254 km Fuel: Petrol Power: 66/90 (kW/PS) Gearbox: Manual gearbox Exterior colour: Green Metallic doors: 5 Audi 80 Avant from 2nd hand, B4 90 hp, 8-fold tyres (summer tyres on light metal rims – winter tyres on steel rims), el. exterior mirror, 5 gear manual transmission, central transmission, ABS, split adjustable rear bench, headrests in rear and rear, middle armrest, loader Twin Tec KLR.in the year only 135€ taxes (insurance regional class 9 SF-Class13 type class 17 in the year 259.51€) New parts with invoice:fuel pump, timing belt, tension roller, spring legs, shock absorber, coolant pump, coolant regulator, water pumpVariety rib belt, heat exchanger and much more. Papers and all coverings are available as well as 3 car keys. The car was washed and cleaned by 2005 Chekheft maintained.. Due to the very high KM performance maybe not recommended?
Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum
-
Tip to all
Hello I have already written many times because of my audio that he spins sometimes and no gas takes on and does not pass through I have found the cause and it never comes to you it was the ignition coil.!!!!!! I came by by chance so it was with me much helps someone just look again and I got a need for 10€ beautiful evening still mfg Blade
-
Flashing on start-up/braking
Moin, so for a few days now I have the following problem… If I now arrive at a traffic light from the front (rather underfloor calculated) a “bright” sound as if something is hit on something different! This problem I have when I start and or brake. If I now for example once more brake this happens (but not imer) and if I then let roll briefly and immediately something like a jerky brake happens again, only if I get out of the stand again ge, I slow down nothing happens! thought I had finished repairing everything now and now something like that is coming! What can that be? As I said, it comes from the underbody area rather, but could see nothing but I made my exhaust again!
-
Corrugated pipe connection at NG Krummer?
Our QP has the following problem: Recently he started hissing out of the Krummer region at the cold start, one can definitely hear that there is a leak from this corner, with increasing engine temperature this improves, which has for the time being led me to conclude on a crack in the Krummer. Well, meanwhile the noise also increases with warm engine, so either the “accepted” crack gets bigger OR possibility two: Perhaps the corrugated pipe between the two Krummer halves is to blame? S It comes definitely from the Krummer region, had the box already above and lit from below with a flexible lamp to the Krummer-Hose-Tube connection. Had the problem already who? I would not like to pick the box to then determine that the Krummer in Ar… is, unfortunately, the 5 Ender Krummer can only get very hard on the fast.
-
Car lame, exhaust too loud while accelerating
Hello, I’m about to rebuild, I want to make sure that my engine is iO, so some tips would be very helpful 😉 How come that my car sounds like when it had a brutal sports exhaust when it was speeding up? I have something like a strong turbo hole (it’s about a gasoline engine!) up to speeds of over 2800-3000 rpm. If I get the pedal all the way in, it gets very loud, but hardly accelerates – it can only be slowly “accelerated” with a feeling My exhaust is not the latest, but is not leaking, just ask, since I have memory, if I will still have the problem after swapping the entire exhaust system (costs almost as much as a replacement engine).Data: Audi 80 MKB: DS Carburettor: Pierburg 2e2 BJ: 1985
-
Audi 902,3e NG Type89
Servus and Hello together!,with my funkt the AI. lighting among other things also the switch lighting no longer despite intact fuse, would someone there have a few tips for me?, still something mine comes at start quite delayed,no matter if warm or cold starts badly!!!.
-
Ke-Jetronic setting
Hello dear Audi fans, who out there, can tell me how to adjust the CO value depending on the ignition, without which the ignition changes again after a short run time. There has to be a spec out there, which has an idea or the knowledge. I have read the Ke-Jetronic book from Bosch several times. I also got to hear that you have to adjust the CO value and the ignition independently from each other! Only a concrete statement I unfortunately did not get Who can help… rejoice at every return…
-
A lot of problems right now.
Hello, just have a lot of problems with my Audi 80 1.6 bj.90 with the PP engine So I’ll start off Be that the outside has 0° or less he jumps at something of bad. That means I start and he goes out immediately. Even if I give gas, the there he does not react on it, Then I have to start again and start again then he takes the gas and runs when I hold it. But as soon as he has run something everything is back to normal. And if he is warm then everything is perfect with the St. Well, then I still have the problem that he is jerking in the idle. So everything is jerking the engine and the whole car sorgar. It’s getting great. I was already at Audi saying that I should change the one hose because it can be porous. I made it. still there. then back up. They say the VErgaserflansch is leaking. Newly made. Still there and it’s all tight. Again down. It’s supposed to be on the spark plugs. Newly made. New Zünkabel. New distribution cap. pe and new fingers. Still there. What can that be??? So slowly I despair. ALso I would really be happy if someone knows something. Or has a presumption. Thanks in advance already greeting Sebi
-
Audi Coupe Type89 V6 with 1997 Cabrio V6 Tacho
Hi, I have an Audi Coupe V6 Type89 Built 09.95 and recently had a speedometer damage. I now thought I’d take as a new one from 1997 convertible, because this looks just nicer with the red lighting and the rounder numbers. Now, however, the first problems open up, in the sense of the plug does not fit or what does not work. That means original are with me plugs; a wide blue (cross below tacho side), a yellow wider (senkright behind tachometer, a yellow smaller for Outer body and on the detachable element (BC) a small oblique white plug and below the rev indicator on the BC element is still a small black plug. On the Cabrio Tacho is now the wide blue plug and the yellow wide plug (both match and match), the small yellow for outside temperature (also fits), only the two small ones on the BC element are not present. Instead there is a wider oblique white plug. Now have the BC element from my taken from the old tacho and built on the new one, so the plugs fit. Also works so far, only the temperature indicator on the left does not work and the tachometer also shows values beyond good and evil, just not what it should. Question would now be what you do best or if such a tachometer conversion is even possible, so everything works right. So whether you leave the original BC element in it and there is a kind of adapter stacker or whatever… With my knowledge this is regarding the limit, so I really don’t know what to do and would be happy if there are a few tips or even a solution for it.
-
Reporters on the S2 Cab?
Hello together, wanted to ask the crowd if someone knows this vehicle? I’m looking for an S2 Coupe, but I came across this cabbi and wonder if there could be something lazy about it, since this opinion of mine was already for sale. What do you think of the information, and how does this offer affect you? Does anyone know this vehicle or is even the owner? You can also tell me advices or reviews about a cabbi with S 2 engine? Would like to know how the relationship to the Quattro is realized. Finally, it is only a fronti and I don’t know if it can be compared to the performance at all. Would I be happy about the answers. Gruss Sebi P.s.: doesn’t want to cause any problems to the link!http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=vbgizbw44hec