Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello everyone.I had a very high fuel consumption.My Avant quattro stopped 2 weeks ago just before work.My master then towed me off.I thought you would change the filter then it will probably start again.Well when gurgling it remained then.Then came the big troubleshooting.The petrol pump ran.Zündfunke was there too.Sprite line jammed off and pressure ar also on it.What now?I then called Kleinheribert and asked how high the fuel pressure must be.He said at least My master built and connected a watch.The hands of the clock only wobbled.I then dismantled the pressure indicator and pressed the hand onto 8Bar with the air gun.Anzeige io.Tja then filled in the tank with about 50 liters,the petrol pump removed.Then I connected it with the batteries from the stacker and let it run without fuel.It ran very slowly times.Sometimes with low sums and sometimes very bright sound.So the next day at Bosch a new one. Thanks to God it was the last pump.Gain pump installed and it started immediately.Then I had Audi read out fault memory.Everything ok no error.I was still on the Baltic Sea (5days).Now fuel consumption between 9.5 and 10.5L. fuelled twice.Is this possible that the engine consumes so much with defective petrol pump????

Hello all together, My good ABK has given up the mind and have another AAD engine completely lying. My question: Can I only convert the fuselage engine with head and build the injection system from the ABK on because AAD motor ??? The seal of the intake manifold are the same and the values of the two motors are also the same according to my book that I have. can unfortunately not answer as I am on assembly . Thank you already in advance. MFG cocorulz1248

All so I have an AUDI 90 20V QWATTRO COUPE with a WEITECK SPORT suspension (KONI Demfer Herte Vorstel bahr ) is 60/50 suspension So registered sint die 17Z with ET33 ALU rims with 215 R40 I would like now the BORBET A on it Make the 16Z 7,5J ET 30 front and back 16Z 9J ET15 front and back How can I make 225 R45 on it almost that????? or do I have to make a whistle?? or track Adabter Plates on it or so?????????

Hello dear members Unfortunately I have to fix that the jolting or the turbulence of my engine is still there What I did up to now I have: carburettor carburettor flange cylinder head seal timing belts V-belt distributor cap Zundstecker Zunddleufer and much more It’s about an Audi 80 B3 type 89 Bj 87 Mkb:RU 75 Ps It starts sobalt the speed lowers about 1000 u/min and goes down to about 800 u/min the lower the speed becomes the bigger the Ruc keln the speed fluctuates but also between +/- 100 rpm lately it is also already with pulled joke at approx. 2000 u/min that I feel the undecided run and s will get stronger and stronger because I won’t keep running and stop it I’m looking forward to your ideas that you suggest I’ll test everything

Hello community! I have a riddle for you, maybe someone has an idea! I had the gearbox and the clutch changed today at my Audi and both funks again like an one! But: If I drive between 0 – 40 km/h, whether I’m speeding or slowing down, no matter if I’ve uncoupled or uncoupled, whether the air conditioning is switched on or off you can hear a speed-dependent “crack-crack-crack”, you could describe it as a loop (“egging”. If you hear before changing the gearbox, you can’t relate to the new gearbox! But the mystery of the matter is: As soon as I turn off the engine when the cracking is clearly audible, the cracking is also gone. If I then start the engine again in the rolling of the car, the cracking is immediately heard again. Apart from starting the engine and making out anything else, I have done nothing else. So it can’t be done on the clutch, the gearbox or Who has an idea or even knows the phenomenon??? I am very grateful for suggestions! Greetings, Dominik Autodaten: Audi 80 B4 Quattro 2.0E, engine identification letter: ABK

Evening, the thread title actually says everything, I could have an Audi 80 2.8 (Limousine) cheaply, year 1993 for approx. 300€. Why it is so cheap I don’t know yet. I haven’t seen the car yet or only on one picture (in the appendix), but will still look at it this week. It’s not an accident car, has 219’000km and was driven by an older man. He gave away the Audi when he had to give off his driver’s license. The equipment (so what I know so far) Actually not so bad (especially for this price), elktr. window lifter front, sports suspension, ZV, fog headlight, elktr. exterior mirror… Since I already have an Audi 80 2.0 E Avant (and want to stay with this one ) I wonder if I should fight this Audi out? I would have asked, are the differences from the 2.8 to the 2.0 E big? So now not related to the engine (that’s clear..), but rather to the body, interior etc.? I think that s should fit already, shouldn’t I? I’d like to ask further if the intress to share of this Audi would be present here? I don’t need all the nice evening yet, adi

Hello everyone, I have a problem and I got my brake discs and receipts today. I also installed them immediately. When I was ready to mount the brake caliper again it was very difficult to press on the disc incl. covers. Well it grinds without end the discs glow literally when driving …next problem I can kick through the brake pedal despite several times pumps completely but there are no leaks visible or so car : Audi 80 B4 2,8l Sch eibe : Brembo coverings : ATE Please help me !!!

Hello people First of all: Search used, nothing useful for me found! 😉 So. I have Audi80 B4 90hp built in 1992. So my problem is, it sucks and sucks. On average is bee just over 10 liters. My distance to the workplace is 35km. Of this are about 30km highway and highway. In Austria, so maximum 130km/h, i.e. about 3000 revolutions in 5 gear! 😉 I took over the car from my brother, and he meant the fuel consumption on good 8L. Ok. I’ve already read in part that the B4 needs a lot, but 10 liters? Notice everything that should reduce fuel consumption! Point 1: Tire pressure. Bite more, reduces rolling resistance, thus less fuel consumption. It was made. Point 2: Quickly switch to a higher gear. I always try to stay below 3000 curls, which works 90%. Point 3: Avoid unnecessary braking. It’s also done. Is there anything else I can do? Thx MFG

hello and that’s what I have a problem and one can help me. I’ve built up my chassis 60/60 with shortened gas pressure dampers and now to my problem, my car is higher in the front than in the back and I’ve also driven about 500km because I thought it still has to lie down but it’s still like that.I used to measure from the middle of the wheel to the lower edge of the wing and it’s 35,5 va / 29,5 ha that makes 5cm higher than in the back.Can jemad give me a tip? on supersport and my car is an audi 80 type 89 with 1.8l

And one more question I saw an Audi standing, whose engine compartment looked “like licked”! I now have a few questions: 1. How do you get an engine including the lock carrier and the adjacent body parts soooo clean? So, how do you do that and with what means? 2. Is it better to keep an engine soo clean, because it then also runs better, you can see any liquid leaks faster and the engine simply does not rot so quickly? OR Is it better to keep the M otor to leave as it is, also with its over the years “collected” dirt and dust layer, which he then has now? Because by “cleaning” (specially natural) and cleaning fluids (water, cleaning agents, …) the cables and components may be attacked more or can have short circuits – than if you don’t clean it? For me personally a clean motor always makes a better impression, simply because I think that there is less dirt and wear in the engine d is in the engine compartment – imagining or is it really like that?? What do you think about it? Just tell every idea! I’m curious … Joe In the appendix a perfect example of a clean engine compartment, as I think!