Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello people Vieicht can help me one of you My Audi v6 2,8l Bj 92 has the following problem The cooling water becomes too warm thermostat, sensor, sensor and thermoswitch are already all new Bosch service could not fix any problem either. with the pipes everything was arranged, works were set errors were read out, even none. Fans run even at despite the cooling water loss water supply display Over 95 degrees something is still not right In addition, he jerks at approx. 2000 u mrotations ZKD and all seals such as hydrostossel were also renewed (cylinder head planned) deaired (imbo screw behind the left bank and heat exchanger) What do you say about this, can have something to do with the oil pressure or are many the water pipes densely asked for help Who can help me Need the car to work for me.

Hello municipality For me today the Tüvtermin was also on the plan. Car is an Audi convertible built in 1993 2.3 l NG. Drive already since ever to the Tüv North – so not to any backyardtüv. On my last 5 visits – so for 10 years the convertible has come through the Tüv without recognizable defects. I have not yet experienced such a Tüv tester as today. That he has not checked the tire air pressure was everything. Rubber lip painted. What did he want to find out? Then sit down in the car and press the wiper function to see if the leaves are still ok. Every belt put in the lock to see that they also close…Gurt completely rolled off – let go to see that they roll up again… etc. etc. So in some way the whole test took about 30 minutes. I really don’t think he left out any part of the car. I think he would have liked to find something. Unfortunately he could not object from the technical side. Then he got really peniebel…. I still have winter tires on it – of course the 190 km/h sticker was missing…low shortage first aid kit expired for a year…low shortage. Please don’t get me wrong…The Tüv is already a necessary device. But I think it can be exaggerated too. How do you think about it? Do I see all this too narrowly? Oh yes… He got a tuv. mike6362

Hello again, I have a little problem with my Audi S2 Coupé and since the search had not helped me I try my luck now here. Today wanted to drive down the window of the driver’s door and it did nothing. Passenger door, rear display window as well as the sliding roof went. So I dismantled the door panel and measured through. Electricity was on the switch and on the plug connection to the engine at the push of a button. Also the switch lit. Furthermore I have a switch changed to exclude a defect of the switch. I noticed that the engine was very warm. So I thought a little bit wait and test again later. 2 hours later he ran up and down a few times. Moment waited and again did nothing. A few weeks ago I also had it on the driver’s side nothing moved. But then went again and was all good. Until today. What is that supposed to be? Motor came from the previous owner not too long ago. eu in, since the train was torn. Can it be as described in the search a cold soldering point in the ECU? Only then not everything should fail and the lighting also failure? Thank you for your help!!

Hello, I’m usually in the BMW area over there, but today I saw a fire brigade red Ingolstadter who is supposed to be at my father’s service in the future. It’s about one: Audi 100 2.8E automatic quattro Ez 1992, 246,000km on the clock service (incl ATF), cooler new, well equipped with the large BC, automatic, Procon Ten (I find 10,000 times better than airbags) ABS, seat heating, climate control, cruise control, 20mm lower, stainless and ne In addition, the water cooler is new. Course is 1.600€, TÜV is new. What do you think about it? Get or let it stand? I also saw that the climate is still filled with R12, does that still anyone, or do I have to rebuild? Furthermore, I read that there is neither KLR nor minikats for the combination (2.8, quattro, automatic). Is that true? Would the conversion to Euro2 be possible even if I clean the KLR from the switch and a AU workshop search the mi Thank you in advance!

Hello Audi friends, I’ve been driving an Audi 100 2.8E saloon EZ/02/1991 for over a year now. At the beginning the part went like hell, then somehow the power slowed down over time. Shortly before the end of the year I had the water pump renewed because it was clearly defective. The control times were also adjusted. Then my Audi pulled again perfectly. Until then about March the part had to come too far into the red speed range. Since then, the power has been especially in low rotation The number range is very poor, because you can really notice that there is no torque. Acceleration from 0 to 100 is more like 10 to 11 seconds instead of the factory specification of 8. Furthermore, a tremor can be noticed at approx. 2000 revolutions. In idle one hears that there are always slight ignition oscillations. A few weeks ago I was at the Audi contract workshop, which meant that there were 2 ignition cables torn, so 2 new ones pure, but there was only a slight improvement. They were also tested, they were perfectly fine. Then I am about 4 weeks ago to a free workshop. They then tested the compression, which is also perfectly fine. Furthermore Lambda probe and Kat were tested, also no complaints. Spark plugs are also all in order. Then the master thought it could only be the air mass meter. Ok, then ordered a new one three weeks ago. But to this day he did not find it. A few days ago he found out that my Audi 100 somehow had a special air mass meter of Japanese origin (maybe it was due to the early EZ? were later installed there others?). Now he thinks he can’t order the air mass meter, because it costs about 300 euros and the risk is too high for him that he can’t return it if the air mass meter is not the cause. So now the question to you: What’s going on? What else could it be? Is it true? the air mass meter? The master said he would try to find a used model. Do you think that makes sense?

Hello, with my Audi 80 (type B4) the ignition start switch (replacement part no. 4A0 905 849 B) seems to be defective, because with a temporary wire bridge (3 wires) made by the ADAC directly on the “counterpiece” (made of plastic) to the switch the motor can be started, and the electrical system works with it. Now I would like to replace the switch myself. I have already removed the lower cover, but have no idea how to switch the ignition start switch (approx. 25 Euro plus VAT) I have the original key (with lighting) as well as the flat spare key. I would also like to know if the lock is still to be used afterwards, otherwise I would also have to get new keys and door locks. The effort would be too high. Thank you for your tips! Greetings, AO

Hi,moin My convertible starts spinning slowly, in high gear (automatic) at low speed.It is jerking with speed variation of up to a partial stroke,200 revolutions.When I speed up, and in all other gears,no problem, it runs perfectly. Audi 80 Cabrio engine 2.6 ltr.150 hp spark plugs new,after error detection I am grateful for any help MfG.P.W.

Hello together, have the honour to repair my father’s car. He bought this again 30 years ago. km Stand 51TKM The speed varies sporadically from 1000 -2500 rpm. Previous had been battery defective in winter, was renewed, then the engine control lights light up from time to time. Now the MKL remains out of it the speed fluctuations. MKB is PM with 3 ways Kat without cold running regulator or the like. In the factory saddle he was already, they can not find the error. On the one hand: A Monojetronic is installed, has now renewed the injection flange and the throttle valve adjuster. Same behavior. The throttle valve adjuster is therefore controlled the speed fluctuations, false air is excluded. The temperature sensors on the water flange and the Lambda probe have been tested. No change. I change the Monojetronic next week by testing, had no hose clamps with it today. Does anyone else have an idea VG josi

Moin, after changing my petrol pump the other day with a full tank and taking up my year amount of benzene over my arm…. I want to try again to have the pump snap into the pump housing properly. With a full tank it was impossible for me to get that. The pump now stands up at the bottom of the case because the small base at the bottom of the pump (with the small sieve) did not go into the intended hole in the pump housing. And since my tank display since the last pump change 2.5 years ago did not go any more…. after the failed assembly I recently fully fueled and wanted to drive the tank according to feeling so empty until the pump is free and above the level. I am now at 630 km and 8.9 l average consumption according to BC. Rest indicator was probably yesterday at 250 km or so. Must therefore still be 24 liters in the tank. Is the pump there already free? The rubber gloves from the drugstore are not petrol suitable, otherwise I would have there g thanks for any information. In case of doubt I drive 150 km, in the hope that the tank is not suddenly all in the middle of the slope.

Hello guys, my air conditioning system has not been working for over two years now, because there is probably too little refrigerant in the system. There is a leak on the upper screw connection of the line to the capacitor, because there is everything full with yellow siff of the leak detector. My first thought was to replace the seal of the screw connection next weekend and then have the system refilled. Now I have noticed that there must still be refrigerants in the system (I have tried I had to pull this off first, of course. Before, however, I asked in the workshop for a short time what the new filling should cost with completely empty system. The information was +-130€, but it was certain that the screw connection was no longer tight, due to contact corrosion between the aluminium thread and the steel screw nut. The replacement of the capacitor was Can anyone confirm this here? I tried to find some information about the topic. Some seem to have had no problems solving (but are also posts from the ’00s), others had the thread on the capacitor completely gone and also the screw nut on the hose was taken away. As a tip I read to take a hydraulic screw connection, there perpendicular to the thread to saw in a slot and with it the thread of the screw nut after envies. Sounds like a good idea for me. In addition, I would just make the capacitor a new one, which is available from Nissens for just €67. 8A0 260 403 AA seems to be the right number for the 2.8, right? Does anyone know if there are new O-rings in the capacitor, or do I have to buy them directly from Audi? Edit: I don’t think they are there. Does anyone know the approx. price at Audi? Is it worth buying those in the accessories, are probably 3 different types Then there’s still the thing with d drier. Is this thing made of aluminium? If so, I am faced with the same problem…. Just keep my fingers off it, or do I have to change it after 21 years? Where is the throttle on the 2.8er? At the transition of the pipes to the spray wall? I should probably also exchange it. Thanks and greeting Sebastian