Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello. I have an Audi 100 Type44 Avant 2,3 5Zyl-10V quattro So Hab now before making a conversion. Would like to reach about 200 without turbocharging. I already have a free programmable control unit with broadband lambda probe for the injection to let the KE Jetronik III fall away. (->ca:150hp) Now there are still camshaft, valve springs and a fan curvature. So I made something smart that will cost the whole stuff. 00.- Valve springs 200.- Fan manifold 850.- So camshaft and valve springs I order now soon and build motor then. But 850.-€ for the fan manifold is already a whole batzen money. So I thought I just build myself the thing. (I know that I don’t have to enter any human but also don’t have to) Have spent some time calculating which pipe diameter I have to use at least and how I design the diffusor. My problem lies now, however, in that I know what length the pipes must have. I know that each tube must be the same length to each other but how long? Must be adapted to my knowledge from the engine. So now my actual questions. Can: -to me someone say what length I have to use or -to me someone send a dimensioned drawing by e-mail or – to me possibly even send a fan manifold that I can find the dimensions myself (Bin No thief!!! Send him back immediately afterwards ) I hope and wait for a couple of useful answers MfG Audi Mechanic M.H.

Good morning, I wanted to know who can tell me something about open sports air filters at an Audi 100 C4 2.3l ! Does anyone have experience with it? Are there any problems with it? Which open sports air filters can be taken? Do you have to calculate the filter size somehow? I know that I do not get more power with it, the TÜV does not necessarily play along or or or…but supposedly the intake noise should improve! Just want to ask me, get tips and from others I found a lot of statements on the topic bislan on the Internet but never really concrete 🙂 Thanks and greetings Soeren

Hello! I have finally bought an Audi 100 S4 Avant 2.2 Bj.91. Some things are to be judged, which is why I have some questions now. I hope you can help me. 1. The odometer is no longer working. How can you fix it? 2. The UFO brake discs still have about 2 cm. Should these be exchanged? Where do you get the “cheap”? I don’t think a conversion to HP2 is worth it with me, since the UFO brakes should hold anyway 100 000 km and I for these at least 10 years 3. Does the rear brake caliper fit the S4 from the 100 2.8E? Which brake discs and pads do I need in the rear? 4. The reverse gear is difficult to insert. 5. The middle pan of the exhaust is removed. Now I have thought about buying a new exhaust system. Are the BN-pipes recommended? Can you drive the entry-free in Austria and fit them exactly? Thanks for your help! LG

How much charge pressure do you have on your AAN engine? There seems to be a problem with me, but unfortunately I don’t know what…, I have in the stand gas 0.2 to 0.4. Say I just stop like this and have 0.4… 5 meters further and then I have 0.2 and so on. Also when running from the gas and letting it roll it constantly! 0.2… What can that be? P.S. If I take off the oil cover while it is running… the engine almost didn’t fluctuate at all…. MfG

Last night, I was standing in front of a red light with my Audi Cabrio and I didn’t know anything bad but suddenly a smart parked in my trunk.The driver had been on the phone and not paying attention to the traffic, and so I killed my beloved car.I could really cry and vomit at the same time,because my Cabrio is 21 years old,but completely repaired.The problem is that the residual value of such an old car is extremely low,(I guess 2500 -max 30) 00 Euro) ,if overhaut.But this is really a joke when I look at the bill mountains that I have collected.Today I drive to the expert and let the damage appreciate. I will have to repair the car because otherwise it does not pay off.To do this I would urgently need a trunk flap and a rear bumper / facelift ,back light left,back light band of Hella,back light band of interior wings left and right.

Hello guys, I need your advice. I’m driving an Audi A6/C4 with the 2.8L AAH engine. The car makes me worry about idling stability/controlling. I’ve been off the car for 2 years now. Since that time he has problems with idling stability. About 2 weeks ago I was with the car at the TÜV and had to have AU done. There was nothing complained about. I had even pointed out the joyous TÜVer to my problem. However, you have nothing to do with the exhaust gas values. The car was already in 2 “specialist workshops”, but they did not find anything…. One of the garages tapped on dirty throttle flaps. Therefore, he cleaned these… whereby he admitted that the throttle flaps were quite clean. Unfortunately, it is so that it happens again and again that the engine dies if you want to turn or stop at the traffic light or at the stop sign. I allowed myself to upload a video on Youtube. The video is under the link:https://www w.youtube.com/watch?v=Da0m-1r5_ho&feature=youtu.be. Many times you can watch/hear the video. I started the car in the video with a cold motor. At 00:17 the secondary air punpe turns on. At 01:40 the secondary air pump is switched off again. At 03:05 the speed is reduced by the first stage. The speed crashes and then catches again. At 04:20 the speed is reduced by the 2 step. It snaps again DEUTSCHLY and catches itself At 05:55, 07:30 and 09:20 the speed is reduced by further steps, as the engine is getting warmer. Nqach another 5-6 min would simply die off, as the engine will no longer catch itself after the speed reduction…. In addition, the speed will always fluctuate after my ear…. Do you have any idea what can be…? False/side air, ignition or lamda probes? Can you help me? Greetings

Good day, I’ve been having an 88 Audi 100 c3 quattro with NF engine for 3 months. Rebuild it since then. As far as good as the brake. The rear left brake is stuck. I have previously renewed the piston seals and cuffs on all saddles and naturally new guide sleeves and pads. Brake cracks at the rear and hoses are also new. There were no problems when assembled. I have ventilated by hand and with underpressure machine. Is everything tight. Can it be that of the brake force regulator what has to do with it? I have made the wippe walkable and the spring is also new. Or is it on the saddle itself? Mfg M

Hello together, I have built in my 97 Audi Cabriolet the original comfort turn signal from VW. The function in itself is there, so it flashes 3x when you tap the turn signal, but the turn signal has at the beginning, I would say always in the moment when the turn signal is released again a very short dropoff … so as if it were briefly lit for the duration of the “hold down the turn signal”, then briefly expose again and then start with the three turn signal operations. che on the Internet has shown that I am not the only one, but unfortunately no way to solve the problem. In this installation instructions a video is inserted on the second page that shows the behavior (but only blinking at the right). So I don’t like that at all => Does anyone have an idea what to do here?

Hello all, I’m a little helpless the heating for the interior doesn’t get warm. The strange thing in the stand the heating gets a little warm, but as soon as I drive it will be cooler and cooler! The cold air conditioning seems to work (although I can’t judge this with the cold at the moment) Moreover, it loses cooling water! Does anyone have an idea? My personal guess is the heat exchanger, only would be very annoying if I let the exchange and then it is a bit different it!?!? Thank you already Many greetings Ben

Hello Have since the beginning of this winter the problem that after a short driving time the engine power decreases, that occurs when the engine has a temperature of 40 – 60 degrees, then it runs again perfectly. During this period it also starts hard, it is immediately there but you notice how one cylinder after the other gets first ignition or Kraffstoff! The engine really loses! And ignites also back in the intake manifold! (I do not know how long the KSV work but from one second to the a It is certainly not completely impossible to exclude false air! Compression is top up to the 5cylinder but that is actually normal with the engine anyway. At 500,000KM this may be the case ZK picture is also in order, as well as the ignition and the fuel pump and filter! Also the Temp sensor was renewed 3years ago Original at Audi! I raised petrol pressure about 2years ago, but should not be important. Do you have a tip for me? Think already slowly about the Po But I can’t imagine it either! I am grateful for every tip and help! LG Sascha and sry because of the spelling errors.