Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello. Have an Audi A6 C4 with the ABC engine. I had problems with chainsaws, ABS lamp lights up, engine in cold condition with easy taping equal high speed only slowly descending. Voltage indicator went into the knees when the fans went on. alternator should be the error. New alternator pure. we have made the timing belt right away as this would soon be due. Operating voltage Stable. Error :motor saws, ABS lamp lights up, engine in cold condition with light on type the same high speed only slowly descending, still all present. Recently, the dripping ÖLkane glows yellow orange. sometimes it flashes 3,5,6,7 12 so always different. I find here only constantly something because of the red oil can and beep. Here beeps nix and it is not red but yellow or orange. See photo oil level may be slightly above max. I have now read dozens of reports and turn off soon. Can someone give me a tip. Am only hobby screwdriver but could up to date al but the oil can makes me really worried now. HHIIIIILLLLLLLLLFFFFFFEEEEEEEEE Thanks gruss Chris MFG chris

With my winter car (the B4 Quattro from the signature) I changed cooling water thermostat and Multifuzzy some time ago. The display in the cockpit (also changed) showed in principle too little. If the engine (called by the service function of the climate control) was already at almost 90°C, the display starts very slowly with its nadel movement. Well, I could live with it. Now a second effect came to this: At the stop-and-go in the city center A feeling of the cooling water hoses did not show any particular pressure, when opening the water tank did not even bubbling. I drive a mixture 50% water, 50%Glysanthin (the old green) Therefore I say, it can not have been bad with the cooling water temperature. Now on the hot days I have the problem that the Multifuzzy also shuts off the air conditioning. Here I watch, The multifuzzy comes from the bay, doesn’t carry an Audi label. Can it be that the parts from the bay are not suitable in general. Unfortunately, I don’t find a steam pressure curve of Glysanthin/water mixtures above the temperature, but I would say that the broth should blubber without pressure if the multifuzzy brings a tremor alarm. Since then, the multifuzzy has been showing an alarm. In the afternoon I pulled the plug from the Multifuzzy, otherwise I would have got the bird without a climate.

Hello, yesterday I removed and cleaned three actuators for the automatic air conditioning system with my Audi 80 B4 Built 93 NG. The reason for this was that the ventilation for the disc did not work any more. Now all the motors are working, but in the interior there is simply no warm air. No matter if I set to Low, 23, 25 or Hi, the air stays cold at all temperatures. Now I have read out the automatic air conditioning system and I get many error codes, which I use It can’t all be sporadically open at once? Can it be fixed by the basic setting? Maybe someone can explain to me what it could be and how it could be fixed. Have already read in other forums, but can’t find anything exactly yet, only something related to my topic. If I’ve missed something, forgive me. 2.3 Indoor temperature sensors in the roof sky, sporadically open 4.3 Temperature sensors in the fresh air vacuum duct, sporadically open 5.1 G17 temperature sensor in the bumper, permanently open (* 05.1) 6.1 (G110) coolant temperature sensor, permanently open (* 06.1) 8.3 alarm potentiometer of the temperature valve, sporadically open 11.3 alarm potentiometer of the central valve, sporadically open 13.3 alarm potentiometer of the foot/defroster valve, sporadically open 13.7 alarm potentiometer of the foot/defroster valve, sporadically blocked 15.3 alarm potentiometer of the damper valve, sporadically open 18.3 fresh air fan voltage, sporadic 3.3 internal temperature sensor in the control panel, sporadic open MfG

Hello! I have been having a problem with my Audi 80 B4 (BJ 93) for some time since the “great cold” this winter my car is constantly crying up in idle. It turns up to about 1500-2000 turns and then down again, then up and down again.. that about 2 seconds-act.. You can imagine that I was allowed to catch some stupid looks at the traffic lights by the way, I noticed that it accelerates sometimes also by itself when I am in the gear. I looked at the gas train, it seems to be free-access, just like the throttle valve. It always goes up and up when the engine turns up, so it doesn’t seem to be. I noticed that I consume an extremely high amount of petrol.. could it be the Lambda probe? Where can I find it on the B4? I don’t know if the problem is related to it, but I noticed today when driving longer, that the radi It was too dangerous for me to test whether it started at all, I am a little dependent on the car. And as a student there isn’t a new I hope you can help me!

Hello, I have a good old Audi 80 2.6 V6 with Tartarini gas system with approx. 300T km before the Gnachtot and bought it for 250,- Euro, because I have courted him to get to run again, because he does not jump anymore according to the previous owner. Now it is so, the previous owner has already played something on it, but he did not get to run and therefore advertise him again, statement of him he probably did not jump from today to tomorrow and stood now about 4 months. n good now with a hanger brought to me and made me on it, so much I can say. 1. Engine rotates perfectly through when starting. 2. Engine has full 14 bar compression on all cylinders. 3. Spritt comes, pump promotes. 4. No spark of ignition available. What I have done so far. Candles, cables, ignition coil and the ignition coil control unit exchanged, nevertheless no spark of ignition. The previous owner also said to me to have exchanged the reverberator, but this I close as a mistake s, because if this is defective, the fuel pump should not work either. I’m slowly ending up with my Latin, and wondering what else it might still be, does anyone still have a suggestion what it might still be about ? mfg

Hello friends, I have a little problem with my Avanti.. From time to time it is so that when the indicator lamp lights up in the middle and I step on the brake then the pedal does not give in. I say I can climb on it with both feet and it happens quite little. when I stand you notice how the pedal slowly gives in trembling. Stand today on the mountain and wanted to look at how the Audi is pushing for snow, then the flashing started. Stop briefly, but now it comes all the time…. D Every time I get in there is something new. First brake in the rear, then servo pump, transverse handlebars, V-belts……. soon the car is completely renovated. Oh yes, it’s an Audi 100 Avant type 44 Quattro 2,3E. Built 87 I might have thought of the brake power amplifier, the car was probably 6 years in the barn. Maybe there was water formed there so that the thing now has one away. Is there something with repair, or has to install a new part n ?? If yes, what is the fun and you get the still ???? many thanks for your answers already in advance…. mfg tobias

Good day municipality, after poltern on the front axle I changed (again) completely on both sides: – cross handlebars with carrying joints – coupling rod – track rod and head – dome bearing (41 mm height) Afterwards an axle measurement was carried out. Now I have the problem that the front car “slips” in slight curves and I get an adrenaline boost, really unpleasant. I then went to the master at the axle measurement again to test if something was done wrong Everything is fixed, everything is fine. His opinion was that the steering gear was defective. Sounds understandable to me, but I ask for your opinions. The position of the steering wheel at the straight run is also very strange. Sometimes it is about 20° to the left, sometimes 20° to the right, sometimes right (see pictures). Has someone perhaps experienced this and/or has an idea? Nice weekend and greetings Stefan

hello, I know… that’s a rather chewed-out topic. a solution has not really been discussed yet but I really want to know now! WHEN JEMAND OB IT’S SPECIALISED IN QUATTRO CONSTRUCTION IN AUDI PUNKTO 80 CABRIO GIVES OR WHEN IT’S GENERALLY POSSIBLE?????????????????????????????????? is all possible……… but I want to know who has something like this and what it could cost! there are no more awesome like n audi 80 cabrio with S2 motor and quattro or what do you say to it?! bit te people, discuss with me about it and call me starting points for such conversions!!! thank you already in advance

Hello, I know there are already reports about brake conversion, are also very helpful, but now I would still have a few questions, if someone can help me, I would be grateful. And although I have 288/15 mm unventilated brake discs at the front, but would like to convert to 312/25 mm brake discs. So it is necessary: 1. brake caliper holder of A6, C5 2. brake calipers 3. brake calipers 4. brake discs 5. rims from 16 inches My questions: – brake calipers, I need from Audi 100 C4 or A6 C4 models (2.8E or so), which have a 288/25 mm brake disc and the brake pads, right? OR!, can I also take the brake calipers of A6 C5? – Are the brake calipers of A6 C5 for 288/25 and 312/25 mm brake discs the same? or are there any differences, because the part number is different, but if you look at the used ones on the Internet, they have the same name, ATE-57 or 885, 886 right-left etc. and look the same. – If you can take brake calipers of A6 C5, pas are the brake pads of C4, because the brake lining wearers are different? – Or does this conversion only work with brake calipers for 25mm brake discs of C4 models? Greetings, Sergej

Hello dear forteers, I have a problem with my Coupe. I’m looking for the cause of the following problem. Maybe you have a tip in which direction to go. I was looking for the reason for the fluctuating idleness. Therefore I did the following: – Idle controller cleaned –> no – the temperature generator renewed –> no – Injector valves tested and cleaned –> no – Pressure regulator replaced –> no – Cooler renewed because leaks –> no At the moment, the idle speed of my 92 AAH still fluctuates slightly, in the cold state the engine even goes off (sometimes). In addition, there is a strong jerk when I go off the gas while driving (up to the third gear). When I steer in the stand, the speed also sometimes drops so much that it almost drains. – So I tried a second idle speed controller –> no – temperature sensor renews –> no – checked for false air and found a leak –> no When reading d it control unit came then always the error G70 – mass short circuit (air mass meter). Can it really lie on the LMM. With pulled off plug I noticed no change. The cable looks i.o.. petrol pump and filter are approx. 1000 km old and were changed before the problem and ran also without problems. Where should I start best?