Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello have changed my ball bearing shells with my 3a motor before I could turn the crankshaft, although heavy but by hand. after which I have made new bearing shells clean I have to take a pliers and turn on the girdle discs still not even on the swing wheel I can turn by hand (toothing is not on it yet and the head also not) now my questionisthe normal?

I need help again now and because the topic has changed a new thread (in the old one nobody answered after all) Thought as long as the squeaking comes from the brake clatters, had now right front the blocks out and tapped, nevertheless still the same problem. The sheet metal is also free, no stones or something in between. PROBLEM ACCORDING! If it just squeaks (straight out) and I press the brake with left short it is often gone. If I then slip again It squeaks -> down from the gas, squeak away -> speed up squeak again. Make it stop when it turns slightly to the right, to the left it starts more when it was just quiet. Right side is not hotter than left after driving, I think slow the brake is not training !!!???? My questions!!! 1. Can a bubble in the system prevent the brake from being properly solved on the way to the right wheel??? 2. Is it perhaps the wheel bearing, drive or the gearbox? ?? Has anyone ever had such a squeaking from the wheel bearing? 3. What is shifting on the front axle when you give gas, you can perhaps conclude something from it. Actually, the squeaking metallic sounds, brake clatters still have lining (outside more worn out than inside) Thank you

Hello dear community, I’ve been having a problem with my Audi for a long time. And it doesn’t start on petrol anymore. But since a car gas system is installed, it’s all half as wild, because it actually only switches to petrol for start and then runs on LPG. And it also starts on LPG wonderfully. I still want to get it back in service, so I can also start on petrol again and drive as I like it I noticed when I’m on petrol while driving. switch, the engine continues to run. But only if I let it roll right after switching it to the accelerator pedal without kicking it. After that it runs a bit rough and then it goes. Sometimes, however, it doesn’t take any gas at all. I also noticed that I can start the engine right after I drove it and put it off again on petrol. Sometimes it runs on then, but sometimes it turns only briefly to about 1000-1500 rpm and then goes off again. Hope I could half Wegs understandably express…is not so easy to distinguish in the text between “give GAS” and “gas operation”. Greeting Funtiger83

When I bought my car C4 2.8 Avant Quattro, I was still good things to have arrived in the automotive upper class. At least I promised myself a huge step forward from the 84 multi-hp compared to my previous vehicle (B4, 90 hp). For a while it was also really nice. Drives fast, looks fine… It happens to me now more and more often that supposedly small and low-performance on the highway from the left lane. I should probably get off the road. Thoughts say goodbye, with speed 200 most Kia, Dacia and Focusse behind me. Usually it’s these different TDCI…TDI…FSI..DI…GTI…QVC Schei** boxes that rob you of nerve and belief in honest cylinder capacity. If I imagine that half of the boxes were subsidized over the scrapping premium (and thus with my money), then I could already break into the leather seats. I’m in favour of a referendum. Cars that don’t have 150 HP… A good citizen buys an honest car. That consumes a lot of fuel…and then it can be fast. But these small 1.2 turbo-direct multi-common-rail-drecks-130hp plastic carts go off like Schmitt’s cat. And consume only as much on 100 km as I hunt for warm running in my car park early in the morning. WHERE BLEIBTS THE JUSTICE??? 😉

Hello, have installed a replacement engine for a month MKB: ABT and for a week the oil lamp has been shining. Oil pressure switches are both exchanged and when I wanted to drive to the friendly to have the oil pressure measured. it went out on the way there. Well let measured trozdem and 2.5 bar in idle and then rising with the speed. for 4 days the lamp was no longer on and I have already driven around a bit and at the same time suddenly it started to shine again, in the once again, it was completely shining, until the front door. It is also not cable break, because if the cable is off from the 0.3 bar switch, it does not light up even when ignition is on. what could that be?

Hi, I would like to make a compi out of my B4 in the summer, but without spoiler (I don’t like it). I have the following questions. 1. Are the fron bumpers from the Coupe, Cabrio and S2 the same? 2. What kind of rear bumper do I need? 2. Since on my Audi the decorative blinds on the doors are black. Can they be dismantled? Do they look good? 3. Where do I get DE headlights? Are they on the Coupe, Cabrio and S2 the same? 4. How should I lower the B4 so that it can be mounted on Compi-Eb is it? 5. Does someone like the rims of the Compi are called YouTube or this one? Image So I think it’s long. I’m a student, so start collecting the parts together now and then. I hope you can help me. MfG kuenzelde

Hello dear NG driver, so for 2 months already a convertible 2.3 NG has been in possession, which causes problems I knew, but also solveable what I hoped for. It’s a well-known problem and it doesn’t go away – the idle- Have changed so far: – all filters, spark plugs + 10W40 oil – KAT + Lambda – thermoswitch + sensor + oil pressure sensor It just stays up hanging at 1200-1400 rpm and has a constant rhytmus. High/low high/low in the range. Now I have scho n 2x idle controller from Bosch tried: – the 1 also apparently broken – the one from today is NEW but the problem is not solved. Has someone had such a similar or the same problem? Search Urgently close advice, had already been to Audi and today with Bosch, nobody can explain it… Have also a Video+Photos… Thank you from!!! P.S. Everything was checked on false air + throttle valve. On the weekend I drove about 300 KM, the problems were not Apparently only in urban traffic or something…

The electronics are starting to spin. Yesterday evening it was noticed that the battery control light (i.e. generator) starts to light up very easily and flashes. So the lamp doesn’t glow fully, but only as if a creep voltage arrives there somehow. Besides, the check is apparently not active after the ignition, it then lights up the oil control lamp and the oil pressureummer. ????? Has someone ever had something like this???? You’re going through a wire harness somewhere???? Where’s the steering part??? so I can see if there’s got anything wet. Had a wet footroom on the passenger side the other day. Thanks for the help.

Hello guys, I once compared some consumption values on Spritmonitor.de and I noticed some funny things. I set the performance, year of construction, model etc exactly as I got only results for the engine that interested me (since I want to buy one of these cars soon) and read from all the vehicles the total average consumption (the number of vehicles I found in order to be comparable behind it) The following came out: Audi 80 B4 (90hp, 2.0): 8,85 L/100km (93) Audi A4 B5 (102hp, 1.6): 8,4 L/100km (89) BMW E36 316i (102hp, 1.6): 8,26 L/100km (210) What I think is funny now is that the Audi 80 B4 with the engine is quite thirsty, but it doesn’t want to make sense of me after these values… 1. Why should two cars be newer and have “many” smaller engines (the E36 & A4) consume almost exactly as much as the above-mentioned audio 80 2.0? 2. Are the values simply not representative and the consumption is really higher or is it true and the two 1.6 simply swallow so much? I just ask because I drive relatively much and if the difference is really only as low I prefer to drive an Audi 80…. Thanks to you MFG Bryce

Hello, I have an Audi 80 8V B4 2.0 with 90 hp. From the previous owner a sports exhaust from Kat from Ray is installed. The sound is still too funny to me. I want a core sound that is nice and sneezing during the high tour. When running down, it’s best (if feasible) to get a few bangs (do not have to be really good, just audible) Here’s a sound examplehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLAFFz4dwV0&feature=related the banging is too exaggerated here but the whole thing should be possible can someone tell me how best to do that and what I need? Ps. please no answers like “You need a stronger engine and more cm3etc.” A buddy had a Polo 6N with the serial machine and it just sounded awesome. Must say it was an ESD attamp. But as I said, STVZO just missed. Greetings Toby