Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello friends of the 4 rings, after I actually assumed that my head gasket is flat, it turned out today that it is the transmission oil cooler. Actually I wanted to have it done in the workshop, but after the guy wants to have 600 € for the cooler alone (at ebay 100 €) I decided to powder my money instead. Now the question of the questions: What should I know before I put on a wrench? How best I clean up there s gear from the oil-water mixture? So if someone can explain to me exactly what I have to do, then I wouldn’t be angry about it. Thank you already in advance! MfG Morph Ha, almost forgotten… It is an Audi 100 C4 Avant Bj.92, 2.8 quattro, automatic

Hello guys! My Audi Cabrio (93 with NG engine) runs like a sack of nuts in cold condition. As soon as it is warm, it accelerates back to normal, manages its (according to Tacho) 220 km/h and runs round again in the stationary gas. However, when changing gear/acceleration, it blows out of the exhaust. That’s what it looks like right now. Months ago it all started with slight cold start problems. I wanted to get the thing under control by myself first and first changed the distribution cap, the candles, the Air filters and the ignition cables. Unfortunately, without success. Since the Audi is no longer the youngest and already has 330 000 km on the hump, I thought of the spraying. So with the help of an experienced friend the gasoline filter and the volume divider was replaced—without success. After a long time back and forth a lot of already defective parts were partly renewed: injection nozzles, air mass meters, full speed switch, tap sensor, lamda probe, cat. Also another control unit did nothing. Now I know a I don’t need to mention that I’m hanging on my car here. I don’t want to know what the parts cost myself anymore. But giving up is not possible for me. < oh yes, the timing belt was also renewed Could it be that the exhaust in front of the lamda probe pulls through a small crack of air and thus the lamda probe delivers false values? Does it run too fat so that these false ignitions come out of the exhaust? What else can I forget? eating/noticing?

Meal. I need a new car battery for my B4 Bj 93. I know but nit which I should get. On sound system I don’t have much in the car radio: JVC 4*40Watt +CD Changer Boxes: 2-compo Phonocar 120Watt (front ) The still pure 4 channel power amplifier 600Watt so I want to listen to music for more than 10 minutes when the car is off, without which I need to get started again Which battery is so recommended? should not blow up the wallet … gruss un d thank you already once Asgard

Moin, first of all praise to the side here, came to it by chance and finds it awesome. Now to my problem, I received the Audi 80 of my grandfather, but it still contains the standard system, I want to have a new one installed. But since I am a newcomer and I have absolutely no idea about it I wanted to ask you here what I have to pay attention to. I have as said no idea of the things I need or about the current Pre I don’t want to install a killer system in my car so that my ears fly away, but only a reasonable system or sound system so that I have good sound and bass, so beginner models are enough for me. So I don’t need the new CD player for the car anymore. The entire system should cost up to 350 euros. Do you have any tips or advice on what in this price range for my Audi a soundwer tig good, and yet inexpensive sound system is? Would you be very grateful for help. Thank you very much!

Hi I have been driving a type 89 1.8S for about a year, the car is basically very solid, but I wish for a slightly stronger engine. My idea would be about 130-140 ps with a maximum torque of just under 200 Nm upwards. I have one known who runs a workshop and he thought it would bring little to the carburetor engine to tinker, as it would be very expensive first and second the sprite consumption would rise rapidly. His tip was to install the 2.0E ABK from the B4 I would be very grateful if you could help me with the pros and cons of the two motors and give me tips on how or with which motor I could realize the desired performance. As a frame I would like to set a maximum of 1000€, which I would like to invest. Thanks in the previous version of the model, and I would like to make a lot of work there. I would like to give you a maximum of 1000€, which I would like to invest.

Hello, I would have to polish my convertible !! It is year 1993 and has the color red. ( See picture ) Do I get a good result here with “Sonax“ ?? The varnish is because very strongly fade and matte. Show some pictures how it looks after polishing. mfg songowa

Moin, I was on the dynamometer this week to get the result of my “remodeling” on my engine (NG). However, the master said that my ignition system always shifts the ZZP under load towards “late”, i.e. the engine knocks well (ZZP in idle to 16.5 degrees before OT). However, the examiner said that he could not have knocked, otherwise he would have stopped immediately (I don’t know if you can knock the engine with working knock control at all). Now I ask myself what this can be about… The compression of the engine was increased (1mm planned), should I possibly refuel Super Plus instead of Super? The tap sensor is still the first (BJ 1987), can the possibly ne Macke have? It does work in all appearances and as soon as the plug is pulled off, the engine check lamp lights up. I also noticed no holders or any other loose parts on the engine, on which the sensor may react. nndte, however, is anyway a hell of a noise under load with 200 cells Kat and Fox Group A plant with VSD replacement tube [thanks to Audi90Typ89 ]… Maybe someone has had the same experience and could help me with my problem, because I don’t want to go to the test bench all the time to see if the problem is gone… I still have to mention that I don’t actually notice that suddenly performance is missing… Thank you Sebastian

Hello dear Audi community, I have to get a suspension from SUPERSPORT, 60/40 mm. Now to the question: Is this a good suspension and has someone experience with it? It costs 200€ at Edoof. Does any of you already have a 60/40 suspension in the B3? I would be very happy about a few posted pictures… Thank you Julius

Hello, I drive an Audi 80 B4 2.0, 180.000km, Bj 93. Consumption so at 8-10 liters (now in winter about 25% higher) The temperature indicator (or cooling water temperature) is always in the range between 50-70 degrees. Only once I reached the 90 degrees (2h highway in summer), I even remember that the coolers have been approached once. Well, I think my thermostat is defective (in the checkbook there is nothing about an exchange). What do you think? a then already, but never over the 90 egtl. Where is the thermostat and how can I expand it? I read here in the forum that you can test it in the cooking pot, I would like to try that. Normal display would seem to always be around 90 degrees, or I am wrong there. I have concerns that my B4 might make a longer cold run if the temperature does not go up. From the ventilation it comes out after 2-5 minutes quite warm. But it is not “hot”. It belongs to a friend that with a warm engine + fully turned up ventilation, the hand can not hold any longer in front of the slits because of the height, but with me the temp that comes out is rather pleasant ! Or could something else be broken? Many greetings, Korti2k

Servus, have a 80’s Avant 2.0 E ABK engine. Wanted to ask if this is normal, or if you’re doing the same thing. And I’ll fill up a little over 3/4, so that the tank is minimally 3/4 full. Now I come about 300 km. Say that’s a consumption of about 15 liters. That’s not normal or. That means with a full tank about 400 km…