Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hi, I have a problem with my Audi Coupe 2.0 ABK 187547 KM. It just doesn’t have any more power, but it doesn’t pull so well until 140km/h. From 140km/h almost nothing comes up anymore, it takes forever until I come to 180 and more is not possible, although in the fzg-schein 196km/h top speed is standing. A buddy of mine, has a VW Vento also 115 ps, which goes much better than my Coupe. He also needs a lot about 11-12 liters when I drive normal, and even more when I kick him. e. He jerks also in the stand gas drive or when I ride under 2000 tours. I just recently made oil changes, also at the same time: -Oil filter -Air filter -Zündkerzen -Fuel filter -relai 30(car has scrambled) -Low pressure hose (had nen riss) -Battery changed. I had to drive to Audi before next week because of error memory read out but I thought you still had some ideas, what that could be. Thanks already in advance. MFG

Hello, I wanted to change the wheels earlier and I noticed that the wheel at the front right was “waking”. When I had the wheel down, I could see where it is loose. On the attached photo the cross handlebar is visible and on the left, where the cross handlebar should be attached, it has clear play. How bad is that? Must the whole cross handlebar be changed right away? Can you drive a few more kilometers with it? Greetings Christian

I know there are a lot of topics about this, but I didn’t find anything to do with it…. And that…. Since my engine when it’s warm started bad so it had to spin 10 seconds forever until it started and then ran only restlessly, I once… Everything was checked for false air and also found places so: The thick suction hose…. The vacuum connection for the warm air intake… (adjustment) And this hose that goes under the intake bridge to the intake bridge and to the valve or on the other side to the thick suction hose! So everything fixed…. Still not better! Distribution cap+finger+cables+twiss candles wet… Also nothing afterwards, Lambda tested without success…. I then rushed the coolant temperature sensor… and now engine starts whether cold/warm… dies off… the about 5-6x…. if I keep it running… after 2-3min it runs on its own…. has good gas acceptance, and pulls better…. But that doesn’t work with starting! W If I bring in the old temperifler he jumps in cold immediately.. however in the warm state the engine hurries forever!Bader gas acceptance, pulls worse….. And with the tester ma net comes into control unit… he only lets enter the ABS… …. Please for help…. mfgh Sascha

Moin…a few weeks ago, I removed the shock of my vacuum pump, because the cracking was no longer possible, and a new pump was too expensive. I recently read somewhere in the forum, which you can also completely dismantle the pump. The hole is then closed with a cover (original VAG part). In the article was also the part number, unfortunately I can’t find this one for screwing up…Can one help me? Thank you in advance… Until greeting… Sebastian

Hi all together, to get right to the point, my cab currently equipped with nem 2.0i from 1996 (ABK), but I like son 5-ender already better (especially if he is forced to breathe 😉 ) and the question is now stop S2- or RS2 engine I get the front under ? Naturally I can save myself the chose and sell my cab and hold son thing but unfortunately there is only as Coupe or Avant and Cabrio driving is just now beautiful . I have also been feeling a bit through the forum The biggest problems are apparently chassis, brakes, cooling and quattro. I would think of the chassis, I already have an Eibach & Willms sports suspension. And suitable wheels I have a, RH type Zw1 225/45 R 17 ( stop 4-hole and ned as with s-rs 5 hole). Brakes and cooling must be ned so difficult bits of work stop. The problem is the Quattro drive, in the engine compartment has space without end, but below it looks barren. And probably i ch au amplify the body if the installation was possible. Look forward to answers, tips, etc. Thanks already in advance.

Hi, new day, new problems No, little fun… Since our “big” repetition I have the following problem: The belt of the alternator slips through for about a second at the start of the engine. No thing I thought about, tightened the straps a little bit and it’s all ok again^^ But that doesn’t work so well, because: As soon as I really just tighten the straps the Lima starts the permanent “jauling”…That’s not because I’m rough motor, and net knows how to fix it I am aware that the bearings of Lima are the best after the mileage net more, but I don’t really want to replace them or repair them because they are still doing their job properly. Can it also be that the V-belt disc has worn out over time and therefore less grip is available? According to Etos, this part costs only 15 euros, which is not enough to be used by the user. I am very sympathetic to. Well, I am open to further suggestions Greeting

Hi, I’m back with my exhaust! I got in touch with FOX again after my caring workshop told me that FOX also offer very good financing and that the 70 mm systems, which are actually intended for the S2 Quattro, should be combined with an adapted chip up to 10 HP, with a large 200 Zeller KAT even 15-20 HP. This makes the thing more interesting now than a cheap solution. FOX have confirmed on my request However, I have to change the pipe guide from my current exhaust at the front by KAT and VSD for the S2 version, because this has 2 cat ́s and accordingly also a double pipe guide with a different way. But that should not be the problem. And my TÜVler has always registered everything I wanted if I only threatened that I would have to register my all modifications elsewhere. But I am irritated by the statements of some vacuum cleaner drivers, who had significantly less torque and an unstable idleness with S2 systems or generally systems with very little backlog down. That would be fatal. Wa s brings me above all more power, if he runs down in everyday life no more. What do you think about it? If no one knows, I will probably think for the test on the example CU and post not forget Markus

Evening, this evening I was at a party again and put my car on a really safe piece of road, shortly before one a young man came in and asked who the Audi 80 heard, tja it was mine and the idiot drove with his Opel Corsa against my car. Well and how I am so I have it ( He was alcoholized ) so arranged that I talked with his parents and brought in witnesses ( A neighbor also had camera ). Kaputt sin d the apron and the foggy, the right headlight and who knows what else my farge since my car was pushed unapprox. 40 cm to the rear ( Corsa against Audi 80 ???) and my hand brake was very strongly tightened and the wheels had hit to the stop it is possible that the hand brake broke due to the turret ??? Has no function anymore and when driving into the curve the drive shaft reports. Thanks already in advance !

Hi, I have had the problem for a long time that when driving over hard short ground waves or similarly caused jerks of the radio reception in the moment briefly “spotter”. With the old radio I already had this, but with the new one it is more noticeable because of the clearer sound. Is this the rear window antenna? Where is the switch box for the antenna? What do I have to change? The rear window probably not, because it will probably not have a wobble contact?! Thank you and greeting Markus

Hello, can it be that there are only 2 levels in the B4 ignition? Stage one ignition completely on (control lights on and kst pump…) and stage 2 motor on. Most cars have 3 levels where the first dan zb turns on the radio. I’m concerned that I want to turn on the radio when I’m standing motor without the ignition being completely on. I know I could run it over permplus, but I don’t like to turn off and on the radio each time. Is that someone I’m looking for?