Hi, I would like to make a compi out of my B4 in the summer, but without spoiler (I don’t like it). I have the following questions. 1. Are the fron bumpers from the Coupe, Cabrio and S2 the same? 2. What kind of rear bumper do I need? 2. Since on my Audi the decorative blinds on the doors are black. Can they be dismantled? Do they look good? 3. Where do I get DE headlights? Are they on the Coupe, Cabrio and S2 the same? 4. How should I lower the B4 so that it can be mounted on Compi-Eb is it? 5. Does someone like the rims of the Compi are called YouTube or this one? Image So I think it’s long. I’m a student, so start collecting the parts together now and then. I hope you can help me. MfG kuenzelde
Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum
-
With Latin at the end of my NG convertible
Hello dear NG driver, so for 2 months already a convertible 2.3 NG has been in possession, which causes problems I knew, but also solveable what I hoped for. It’s a well-known problem and it doesn’t go away – the idle- Have changed so far: – all filters, spark plugs + 10W40 oil – KAT + Lambda – thermoswitch + sensor + oil pressure sensor It just stays up hanging at 1200-1400 rpm and has a constant rhytmus. High/low high/low in the range. Now I have scho n 2x idle controller from Bosch tried: – the 1 also apparently broken – the one from today is NEW but the problem is not solved. Has someone had such a similar or the same problem? Search Urgently close advice, had already been to Audi and today with Bosch, nobody can explain it… Have also a Video+Photos… Thank you from!!! P.S. Everything was checked on false air + throttle valve. On the weekend I drove about 300 KM, the problems were not Apparently only in urban traffic or something…
-
Battery control light flashes very easily while driving, almost only in the dark to see.
The electronics are starting to spin. Yesterday evening it was noticed that the battery control light (i.e. generator) starts to light up very easily and flashes. So the lamp doesn’t glow fully, but only as if a creep voltage arrives there somehow. Besides, the check is apparently not active after the ignition, it then lights up the oil control lamp and the oil pressureummer. ????? Has someone ever had something like this???? You’re going through a wire harness somewhere???? Where’s the steering part??? so I can see if there’s got anything wet. Had a wet footroom on the passenger side the other day. Thanks for the help.
-
Audi 80 consumption compared (sprit monitor)
Hello guys, I once compared some consumption values on Spritmonitor.de and I noticed some funny things. I set the performance, year of construction, model etc exactly as I got only results for the engine that interested me (since I want to buy one of these cars soon) and read from all the vehicles the total average consumption (the number of vehicles I found in order to be comparable behind it) The following came out: Audi 80 B4 (90hp, 2.0): 8,85 L/100km (93) Audi A4 B5 (102hp, 1.6): 8,4 L/100km (89) BMW E36 316i (102hp, 1.6): 8,26 L/100km (210) What I think is funny now is that the Audi 80 B4 with the engine is quite thirsty, but it doesn’t want to make sense of me after these values… 1. Why should two cars be newer and have “many” smaller engines (the E36 & A4) consume almost exactly as much as the above-mentioned audio 80 2.0? 2. Are the values simply not representative and the consumption is really higher or is it true and the two 1.6 simply swallow so much? I just ask because I drive relatively much and if the difference is really only as low I prefer to drive an Audi 80…. Thanks to you MFG Bryce
-
How do I achieve a core sound?
Hello, I have an Audi 80 8V B4 2.0 with 90 hp. From the previous owner a sports exhaust from Kat from Ray is installed. The sound is still too funny to me. I want a core sound that is nice and sneezing during the high tour. When running down, it’s best (if feasible) to get a few bangs (do not have to be really good, just audible) Here’s a sound examplehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLAFFz4dwV0&feature=related the banging is too exaggerated here but the whole thing should be possible can someone tell me how best to do that and what I need? Ps. please no answers like “You need a stronger engine and more cm3etc.” A buddy had a Polo 6N with the serial machine and it just sounded awesome. Must say it was an ESD attamp. But as I said, STVZO just missed. Greetings Toby
-
Convert the Audi B3 1.8 with KE to 2.0?
Hello Have again 4 rings on the car. I am more than only happy but he burns slightly oil (in and again blue smoke when warm) and oil pressure when Warm in the stand at under a bar loud indicator. 240t he has already run and I am sure that he should get a new heart. Since he is already equipped with a KE I just don’t know if I just make the same clean again or nen 2.0 he. Brakes in the back I want to convert anyway on discs so… well, someone already has Would only like to know what else I have to change everything and what I have to pay attention to. Quite simply I need a decision help! Engine and transmission (4+E) have to get out. New heart + normal 5 gear in! Please save yourself stupid answers!!! I’m not a small 18j Prolet anymore but I’m talking about stability and safety!!! Sitting children in it! MFG and thank you for helpful answers Benny
-
2.3 NG Idling problem – Sufu didn’t help!
My Audi 90 2.3 NG had when I bought it, the problem that the idle was always so at 1500 rpm, warm or cold almost no difference (KLR retrofitted). Thought first cold running regulator dirt but after extensive testing by me this was found to be OK. Well then I once thawed the idle switch, which showed when the throttle flap was closed Infinitely, then pressed the switch with the finger and see there, about 3Ohm. plug pulled from the switch, u nd LL contact bridged, then it ran first in idle, then turned then always so on 1500 and dropped again to approx. 1000, before it turned up again and all this always so in a period of 1 to 3 sec. but always nice even. When I give then some gas it runs clean, how this behaves during the ride I do not know because the Fzg. is deregistered… Oh yes, the whole happens only when it is reasonably warm, is probably due to the warm running phase and the KLR falsified t, because it turns the first 5 min higher anyway. Today I then renewed the valve cover seal and also immediately examined the idle switch. There seems to be something broken off from the actuation, then I drilled a hole in the “heel” which normally presses on it and turned a screw in, which presses on the switch, in the LL understands itself. Well everything back together, let warm run, switches works because the above described problem again appearance. Motor turns up, falls a b, turns high… I then took a hammer and knocked on the idle valve, didn’t help. Idle valve removed, tried to start, runs no… Is also clearly the pull a lot of wrong air if the part is missing. So the valve observes when the organ is missing: nothing happens in the first second, then it goes completely open and remains open until I stop orgling, is the normal? What is still important if I pull the plug off from idle switch and full load switch Then it just turns higher, but doesn’t fall off. If I pull the plug off the idle valve the problem will only get worse but wouldn’t it have to go out? Then what else, when I saw after the switch, it seemed to me that the small flap of the throttle valve was bent towards the air filter, is the normal? Sry, which now became so en Roman, but I wanted to describe it exactly. Thank you!
-
Open air Audi 80! Yes, but how?
Hello guys! Car is in the Sig. Got me the part: carburetor cap and the air filter : Green Twister Wind ordered. I read and heard a lot, this should work anyway instead of clapping the pizza plate to the sport air. Have looked at all this today and ask myself actually how exactly. So the round air filter box comes down completely? The parts are unfortunately not there yet, come next week (do not know also tube diameter, can I only then the p What exactly do I have to dismantle and pay attention to what? He pulls the air to the right of the headlight so far. Would it be pure theoretical net if you simply “switch” the sports air filter into the “intake tube” and take out the ring filter insert? If you want, I can put in pictures. So right now, it just looks like it doesn’t fit so easily! Thank you, greetings =)
-
Audi 80 b4 engine stutter
hello, with my audi 80 b4, bj.92 (2.0 injection) the following problem occurs, however only occasionally: when the engine is cold everything goes perfectly. after about 3-5 min when it slowly warms up, the engine suddenly “slips out”, it feels as if it only ignites once in a while, when giving gas there are strong crackers, in the empty run there are the same dropouts. the problem disappears after a few minutes on its own again. and it also occurs when I use the engine in the stan d warm up – at some point he starts to stutter and after 2-3 min everything goes perfectly again. does someone have an idea what this could be about? would be really grateful to you! bastian
-
Engine’s jerking…
Good day. I have an Audi 80 B4 2.0E 85 kw with the following problem. If the engine (ABK) is warm, it starts to jerk. This jerking is especially noticeable in the first three gears and low drez numbers and only when the engine has run hot. I have read many topics here in the forum and then had the exhaust gas values measured in a workshop. The CO emissions behind the cat were 17% (normally 0.3-1). the engine gets too much fuel. Due to various topics here in the forum I became aware of the thermosensor, which I exchanged today. This happened in a workshop and the car was then tested again at a measuring station. The CO values were now at 2% but still above the standard values. In idle mode the car threatened to jump out because the speed was constantly fluctuating. So the engine ran very restless and jerked still slightly. n, but unfortunately there is a risk of damaging the engine if it still gets irregular fuel. Consequently, it could be concluded that a component is still defective. I could not be helped further in the workshop and so I decided to choose other workshops. After several disappointments that I could not be helped further, I decided to visit an Audi workshop which could not help me, but suggested that I keep the car there and that I could not use it. The lack is the price. The workshop would like to have 70 euros per hour for troubleshooting and depending on the error it will be fixed directly. Unfortunately, I lack financial resources because I just bought the car and I am still a student and I have to finance the car myself. Since I noticed that many problems could be helped, I hope someone can help me here in the forum.