Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello, my Audi 80 consumes an enormous amount of cooling water, so that after 150-200 kilometers I always have to refill 1-1.5 liters in the compensation tank. So far I have done the following to check where the loss comes from: Run the car clean cardboard under the car remained dry even after 10 minutes, no water drops on the cardboard to see No white smoke from the exhaust and also no exhaust gas deposits in the compensation tank or the water is not pushed out of the container-with It’s not like that. I’m really at a loss. Especially since a 0815 Wkst changed my thermostat 1 month ago and I already had problems with it, because it had forgotten to vent the cooling system. What I noticed was that I had the heating on very hot, it consumes more water than when it is out, but water consumes it enormously. Only if the heat exchanger is put or leaks I wouldn’t get wet feet??? Would I like to get wet feet? about advice and did very happy. MFG

The question is always: “Did the Ventiele open or does the engine “open”?” The guys from the ADAC have a list in which they can look up the vehicle and the engine. The list is probably more a book! But they know if the engine has opened or if it is running again with the right setting and a new belt. Does anyone know this list? Where can I get this or can I check it online? MfG

Hello! after I bought an audi 80 b3 again (should be for the girlfriend), I have a big problem now. I try to describe as much as possible. I already used the forum search and well … the data: audi 80 b3 , bj 89, 2.0 E with 113 hp (MKB 3A) . so after I changed everything possible, which was due like distributor cap +finger, wapu, various filters etc … now the following. after several test drives I noticed, not really performance. in the lower speed range is possible, in the upper part there is almost nothing at all. first I thought, seems like a knock sensor. until I then took off the timing belt cover and checked the position. now it comes: if I put the camshaft wheel on OT, then the notch on the belt disc is perhaps 30° against the clockwise, so is NOT on the arrow at the plastic cover. the same with the distribution shaft, the finger deviates about 150° in the clockwise sense from the notch. H Ä ?? and the thing has gone! I don’t understand! so, I thought, well, tooth strap down, everything in ot position, new on it. now nothing is going on anymore. when leaving on no compression. now the ideas go out. how does the distribution wheel and the crankshaft have to stand when I have placed on top OT? I am really perplexed. and what does the marking on the distribution wheel (the small point) have to show off somewhere? or have to disperse wheel and kwrad somewhere I have no idea. I also unfortunately lost the repair manual, dreck. I hope you can help me. desperate greetings, Stefan PS: I wanted to photograph the position, but my cam then also gave up the spirit, was really not my day today. 🙁

Meal…. Hope someone can help me.. if I want to start my car early then I let him nudge for a moment then I let go of the key and only a second later it goes on, although I have released keys.. funny or??? furthermore I have to fill up my cool water weekly, after a week it is usually 5cm below minimal. but my control lamp shows nothing when the water gets scarce… and my temperature indicator somehow only goes when I throw in fresh water. otherwise only when it’s cold a few minutes.. achso and my hydros clapping since about 3500 km constantly as soon as it’s warm but I had the feeling today that it has become 50 % quieter after the water…. hope it can help mfg micha audi 80 2,3l 263000 km

Hi! Which turbocharger would you recommend for the S4 C4 engine with 230 hp? The engine was developed by my S4 and completely redesigned and optimized and is now installed in an Audi 80 B4 with front drive. Now it’s actually only about the turbocharger because the original one is still installed. Power should be achieved thus between 370 and 400 hp around it. Fan manifolds, optimized charging air cooling, suitable injection nozzles etc. are available – it’s all about the loader. What do the experts say, for example: Garrett Gt28rs, K29, T3/T4 Turbocharger, Garrett Turbocharger GT3076R etc.? Which would bring the corresponding performance and be the easiest from the installation? Price should not exceed about 1000 euros. Is this feasible? I am grateful for any information! LG Peter

tach alleman. wants to get me an in audi 90 20v quattro with 2,3l. wanted to convert times to turbo. can you use most things from s2/rs2 or would you rather convert something completely? so the 2,3l motor can withstand everything that no shit motor. so what should you use for that, only around the 400ps. wanted n bits faster than rs2 in the drive. so not hearer top speed. so 400-500ps can he definitely manage. wanted to know if you can make bi turbo or not? because 2 cyl for 1 turbo, and 3cyl for the other??? have the pleuel of s2/rs2 reduced the same stroke or compaction? mfg Jean heide

have a tornado red Audi 80 SC 1.6 he has 170000km on it and was driven before me 21 year by a retired. the car is super in shot. only a door handle is defective at the rear left. paid 1500€ and wanted to know what you get now still so he is fully galvanized and is the 81ér series with the wide rear lights. EZ is however 84. Is everything gamcht spark plugs, V-belts, oil change, 8 fold tires. mature still almost new. everything except the door fully functional. make even new TÜV. r know that the SC is a special model: cassette compartment, Velursitze, wide tires 🙂 (that was the one at the time) and this lamp that tells you to switch. I could always keep swarming. In any case, I am a student and can’t afford it anymore. wanted to know what else I could get. thank you

Hello to all of you… Tonight I stole my girlfriend and me our 80s… just off the doorstep… It all happened in the Rems-Murr circle near Stuttgart license plate WN-S 5205 I don’t know where the front and the back is. I hope at least that he will show up again.. 🙁 I could just howl… Our whole pride, our very first car (the A4 in the Sig is meim Paps) Maybe you can keep your eyes open a little (mobile, autoscout, egay) So there war/is a B4 2.0 ABT in alpine white… Distinctiveness: 17″ MAM8, red tail cover, Kamei Grill, … And here’s another picture… Greeting Steven…

How do you find the acceleration of the NG? So in my case (Avant with 17**kg) I would say that could be a lot better. And if I ask, to the avant drivers: what do you have for maximum speeds? I know, the question with the highest speed has been taken through several times, but this time the question only goes to Avant drivers!

Hello, I drive a B4 Competition (2.0 16V) and have recently changed control chain between the camshafts and hydropunch because of rattles and clacks. The rattle is gone, but I still hear a clacker. Both in cold and warm condition. The oil level is correct and 10 W 40 would have to be enough in my opinion from the viscosity. Does an idea come from where the clacking or how I remove it? It definitely comes from the head – a defect at the conrod bearings w I would therefore exclude. Thank you very much for your answers, Greetings Christoph.