Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello, I would have a question about the cooling system with the NG engine, which was treated in the search so much still not at all. My Coupe with NG engine has changed forever after starting to the engine temperature 90° (display in the instrument cluster). I had to drive betsimmt 25km so that at all something has done. Since a cooling liquid change was ordered I immediately changed the thermostat and see there, the old one had a minimal gap, so closed no more correctly. I bought a new one, properly built around and the system again filled up and after instructions here from the forum. If I drive now and the engine is cold it comes very quickly to temperature (about 5-7km driving distance). However, the display climbs to the 100°C mark or lies slightly above it, after that behaves like before before. City traffic warmer, fan goes on, temperature falls again on the 100°C mark. In principle, however, the value of the display is already too high, it should be at the 90° mark, or if I have read at least of the Öfter of the cooling liquid has not been normal. I have read on you about 4.5.

Servus, after I rebuild my Audi, I now want to change a few other things after the engine has changed, too. My old chassis tire combination was much too hard for me (Domlager ham not kept 2000km). I will definitely change from 215/40 R16 to 215/45 R17 (wheels are already there). That should make the whole thing a bit more comfortable. Nevertheless, I have the feeling that the dampers from Weitec are so hard (does not spring away especially small shocks at all), think that this is due to the damper, or?), that I also want to change it. Now my question: Bilstein B6 pure? or mandatory whole chassis change because dampers bring nothing alone? Which alternative to the (but quite expensive) bilstone? (Have the search of course already used, but not found anything really useful). PS: Side question: Measure the thing in the cooler at the front to the temp.; how does that call itself something? Temp.

Hello, the mechanic who should set my track said he can’t adjust it because the track rod is fixed or something like that. He said I need a new track rod head and the part that you turn into the track rod (????) What does he mean by that? What do the parts + installation cost? Is it true that you can’t set the track? Hope you can help me because the track is quite adjusted. Lg hannes

Hello, good day, am looking for specialists in the electronics of the AAH motor 2,8 v6 audio 100 bj 91. approx. 255tkm. I am looking for my case, which does not bring any sparks anymore, were exchanged in between KW sensor, hall sensor, speed sensor, hitachi control unit however 4A0906266A replaced by 266AB, endstuff module, all by new parts except control unit. Can not imagine that both are defective. Tooth belt checked is missing and has driven in between even only 70tkm. Cable tree with easytronic for short circuit and passage tested, permanent +, controlled +, mass on the control unit also ok. Integrated alarm system with wgfs in the central locking pump is also replaced. But found that no signal at the entrance of the endstuff module can be used for excuses. Therefore, as described, I don’t know which direction. I can also not always use the vehicle to test what is welcome for me.

I had installed a new thermostat myself in the autumn and then suddenly an increased temperature (93 – 95 degrees) and the whole here in the forum was posted… then tended to calm down. In the meantime there were also 2 – 3 threads with the same topic, which have after that also increased normal temperature… I had to settle down with it. Now that it is clearly warmer outside, the whole extent shows up: it is in the middle of the country road ride (so 95 degrees), as soon as I stand at the traffic light for 2 – 3 minutes, it is 100 degrees, fans are running naturally. That just can’t be healthy for the engine… the joke is that this is already the third thermostat that makes the quatch… nominally 87 degrees opening temperature, and then in the water bath: makes at approx. 92 – 93 degrees only slow on… shortly before the boiling point. I had an original VW, an elector and a beam. I plug in an “old” that comes in a little too early, it remains at 84 – 93 degrees, it’s not completely cooled, otherwise it’s absolutely cooled.

Have problems with the AU… have new cat new lambda probe installed… nevertheless I can’t get over it. The values in empty run are okay. But the in the heard rotary range are not OK…are clearly above it… engine is an ABT 2,0l with 90ps has 255tkm on it, consumption a little more oil than normal…we think it’s the valve shaft seals, can it be that he might not get through the AU because of the defective valve shaft seals?

Hey, my engine is running very bad just when it’s cold. almost even goes out and has no power. when it’s warm it’s top. Cold but partly only on 4 paws. Temerature sensors have been changed and has 0,4Ohm resisted when hot is cold less. The familiar sieve in the intake tube is really around and cleaned. False air can actually exclude. Spark plugs, ignition cable, distributor cap, runners have been renewed. I’m now still typing on the injection nozzles, since I found out that the engine starts immediately in the morning and after 10 min drive has to be driven loosely 8-10 sec at érneutem start. Audi can’t make any comunication with the vehicle. The kat should have lost stones that have found a new home in the exhaust system, can it also lie on a clogged exhaust system??? autobahn he still creates 215km/h in the sufu I actually lost everything by therefore also my preparation but now I am at the end?? can help me?

Hello, after changing the cylinder head gasket and the timing belt, the car jerks and has no more power. When the timing belt was put on, the markings of the camshaft wheel, crankshaft wheel cursed with the markings on the plastic cover. The ignition distributor is also on the marking. In the windows (why two, starter sniper and flywheel) of gears I found no marking!!! What do these look like, are they notches or some kind of pins (of which I have seen two of them), when everything is on O.T. must be seen the markings in the window? At the distributor we have made no changes! The engine jumps well, but without performance. Do I have to adjust the ignition if yes why and how? About help I would be very grateful. Greeting, schneider13

Moin Leuts, I don’t want to install my 95er Avant nen Funkzapper for the ZV. Unfortunately, from the circuit diagrams available to me it is not possible to recognize the connected control line (common-wire). Since this line is to be cut according to installation instructions and connected with two cable of the control modl, it was not possible to find this line. The power supply for the module is already connected. Function of the relays contained in it is also available, only the Steur line is missing. Since the compressor for the ZV is connected to a total of 3 multiple plugs (which are apparently still for further functions such as switch-off delay internal lighting and alarm system) a determination of the control line is not possible. the power supply for the radio module was accessed on the middle 6 pole combination plug. For details to correspond to the line color (possibly also the cross-section or the corresponding combination plug) as well as information about the operation (plus or minus controlled) would be grateful.

Hello and Moin Moin, I’ve got a new project ashore again. And I want my Cope brake now conversions. I already have the Brembo saddles here for the 304 discs. Holders are steel flex lines and new ones. My problem is now the Brem discs. I already have some of ATE here but the hub bore is too big. I won’t get a 4×108 hole circle in there. I already phoned with Brembo in italy there it is also not possible to get a Brem disc blank. Do you know about other brake discs with smaller hub bores? And similar measurements? Otherwise, I just have the possibility to bring them back or? MFG