Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Nice good evening I have an idea or a small project that I would like to discuss here to what extent it is feasible. So I have been standing an Audi 90 Quattro with the NG engine for some time and now I have a little bit of time again and have started to get it back to running which also succeeded. So now the car would like to breathe a bit more power and thought about the 1.8T, however, does not want to lose the Quttro drive it is now possible to replace the motor plug and play? Or do you need another transmission or adapter plate? MFG

I would need an objective honest report from everyday life. To the screwdrivers who have already screwed on many cars: Which car (all brands may be taken into consideration) represents an optimum of reliability and reliability (and why)? In other words: With which car could/can one drive with very little effort (screw time + spare parts) e.g. 300000 km? A pair of triggers: Many would say Mercedes W123 … but what about the Toyotas from the late 80’s? Or what about a Golf II or Audi 80? It’s my impression that a Mercedes W123/W124 can already scroll 1 mio, but what about workshop time??? If one had put the same love, time and money into a corolla or golf, what would come out then? 2 mio km? 🙂 I wonder (if one looks inside mobile.de) why so many Mercedes always have replacement engines… Frohe’s new year, the lucas

Hello, I have the following problem with my car, It’s always been that he ran extremely undertoury when he is cold and very rarely he went out even while Der driving out when he was warm, but jumped immediately and flawlessly again. After I changed the ignition candles this problem improved a little. Now, however, it was so that he jumps and runs out without gas immediately. With gas I could keep him alive, But he banged in the engine room, near The injection system.. The speed always danced between 500…so shortly before going out and 2000. I thought that was the lot divider and built it up and cleaned it…..this pen now pulls itself in and out all by itself…I think That’s so normal now?.. anyway it’s so that he doesn’t jump at all….once he didn’t do it anymore….now no more…who has no idea What this could be? Thanks already for your ideas.

It’s normal that the disk is at the bottom when the engine is not running and does not lift manually with the hand nix also comes from the ESV ? How can you set something there evlt? The last time it is almost due to too high co worth falling through the asu . 2.) The petrol pump does not run if you set the key on ignition , relay and pump radio , but what can be the cause there evlt be ? 3.) Something in the hydraulic system is not i.o. If the engine is off I have no brake force booster , brake pedal is immediately hard . When running it takes a time until the full braking force has been built up and you notice every pump bump in the brake pedal , besides the warning light is on . The pressure memory has been changed a half year ago , however zernix has changed ( however, art is a used one, so it can not be defective ). However, what is the same thing , which is not possible to save it , but it is not possible to use it again ?

Hi, my prob is in it, which I would like to get Oldi, not too potte. Do everything I can, however, lacks time and money….. Now I have Probs, with landlord,must break off car. However, since he,the engine has never been running for a long time,I am careful. I have read many things here, it doesn’t turn around, OIL, water, brakes, sprite line,that’s all for me. I’m only concerned with one thing, which is the safest thing, engine has almost 300 tkm,90 hp. What I leave so, possibly with creep oil, let in the candle holes, a few days……. whatever. Candles out, gill disk spin,some times it revolves around this… It’s all about the engine,without the various andr points where you have to do anyway. Freu me about information,by professionals. lg Horst

wanted to integrate my blue spot London MP3 into my 99 Audi convertible, as I noticed that the original Audi radio is wider.. Is there an adapter (blank)) If yes, where? THANK YOU! unitro

Moin I have to the roof afford my soda on both sides rust under the strip. I had already read myself cleverly because of the dismantling, but what I could not read out is whether I also need the rubbers new in the 100’s when I take out the triangle window in the back, or whether it is only the case with the A6? and how would you best go there to the rust? my plan was to grind everything down first, rust converter up, and clear varnish on it, until my paintmaker has time to get on the matter.

Hello, I wanted to ask if my price concept for my Audi 80 B4 is realistic at all,I first advertised it here but no reaction… now eater at Mobile-Autoscout-Ebaykleinanzeigen…I would like to have 200€ for it, but always get only one mail from a valuer always the same over 100€.Of course, he gets 500€ determined by the spare parts… A young Audifreak offered 150€ but not more…here the basic data: Audi 80 B4,BJ 1993,2l,90hp,2.Hd., accident-free,220.00km,EURO1,greenmetallic No TÜV-AU,registered,original motor,way lock,2 keys,2.hd.,Pioneer CDRadio, outside+inside cared,diverse defects,do not jump on!,cause unknown KINE test ride possible! MUST be fetched with suspension! What price would be realistic for you?

hello, I recently exchanged my a3 and got an audio 100 (plus payment). now I have to leave 100 again unfortunately because my wife can’t handle the car (too big too wide).I wanted to ask if I can get a price from you which is realistic. I have no idea how these cars are traded because I find them in the well-known pages simply too rare or the condition then does not correspond to the car of me. Here times a few dates. Audi 100 2,8l v6 quattro 222tkm bj 91 tüv 5/15 color black interior equipment quattro sport (black seats and interior space without holes and scratches) 20mm lower (entered) 17 inches A8 rims (the gulli lid also entered) supersport exhaust stainless steel (entered) climate difference. el. fh front black rear lights black fog ́s incl. day running light original Audi sport steering wheel.

Hello people, and I have been having the following problem for a long time: My 80s convertible 2.3 MKB: NG goes out during the ride. Meanwhile I can conjure up the problem exactly. And that is when I drive e.g. in the 5th gear and I switch down into the 4th gear (motor brake therefore without gas), let it come still rolling and is on. But now I couple again and insert the empty run and let the clutch go off then it goes out in the roll. The lights flash, the rev indicator is on 0. Now when I start it with the ignition key, it jumps again, but the error comes again every time. Only if I don’t hit it with the ignition key in this condition (so put a gear in under rolling and let it come by clutch) the problem is gone during the whole ride and it goes out in no more situation. Only the idle speed number is increased. I have now a 2nd 5 cylinder with me and have started to exchange various parts gradually. Unfortunately without success, but I don’t want to change parts of the valve, but I can’t know how to say that I’ve got a little bit of a hose.