Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello where do I get a sharp camshaft for my 5 cylinder 2.3l NG engine? What do I have to pay attention to and what does it cost? Does any of you know? Greetings Schorsch

Hello, I know that car is old, but runs. Actually. Problem is that the engine can not start sporadically. Was in two workshops, nothing found, starter ok., battery replaced, problem description: no matter when, it can happen that the engine does not start. Just like that. It clicks briefly, nothing else. Then, after five minutes it can be that it starts completely normal. or only after two hours, or even the next day. It doesn’t matter whether the engine has been driven warm, whether it has long distance behind it. Sometimes it starts 25 times in a row and then at once just click – and then it is necessary for unspecified time to wait. Very annoying, since I use the car professionally on appointment, regularly plug in money for everything possible (everything in technically good condition). It annoys. Can someone help me? Oh, so: push is also not necessary.

Moin Where exactly does the temperature display for the cool water have to stand, with a warm motor? The oil temperature is at just over 60° , somehow little after 20km driving. And then the empty speed. How much is normal with the 3.6 V8? Sometimes it seems a little too low to me, and when you give gas it swallows up, the speed goes short into the cellar and then up first. So it takes on delayed gas, but also not always. Is already the V8 time, from which I no longer know exactly how my old has behaved Here still pictures of the instruments.

Hello together I have an Audi 80 avant quattro with Ng engine. It runs well and is re-set. That means: ignition to 17 before OT. CO to 0.4 before Kat. Pressure selector tom in the tolerance of +/- 0.3. Fuel consumption at 10.5l/100km- Hab these tuning parts installed. namely: 200 cell kat Fox complete system 63.5 mm. own construction air filter box with K&N-pilz throttle valve without wedge The following parts I have now got and want to build them up and that is: 3-flow manifold ABT Süko camshaft T 300 305 285 (285° with 10.8 mm stroke hydro wave) cylinder head I would like to plan this by 6 centel. I also want to cut the inlet and outlet on sealing size and polish it. I would like to leave the ignition system original for the time being. Now my question. What cylinder copper seal should I use? Do I need to build a chip? If so which and into which control device (engine or ignition engine) I would have set the ignition nozzle as well as the turbo meter?

Good evening, I need your help again. It is about an Audi 90, which I would like to have as a second car. I would leave it in its original condition, and try to get an H-mark in a few years. But now to my actual question. With me in the area (East Frisia) such old Audis are rather scarce. I have now found an ad at Ebay classifieds which I find quite interesting. Here the link to the ad:http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/…/266277410-216-3010 What do you think about this offer? Leave your fingers off or take them and if at what max. price? I can also wait for other offers, there is no rush. Thank you already. Wish you a good trip to 2015.

Day! My car has been having problems with the brake force regulator for a short time. (Hoff that is the right name for the part, it does sit on the rear axle) It runs out. And quite strong. On the floor of my parking lot at home is already a wet spot that is almost a quarter as big as the car! Twice a week I have to refill brake fluid. Always have a one-litre refill canister with. Recently I tried to change the part. Cost material: € 92,– So up on the stage and look. The problem was that I could not open the screws, which hold the brake lines, which go into the brake force regulator. Quite stupid thing. I have already quite nudged the nuts by my attempts. After some attempts I stopped then. Did not want to break even more than it already is. A friend advised me to warm the screws. So make them really hot. That the screw nuts glow. With a welding device or something like that. He means that they can be solved more easily.

Servus people, I have a problem again and I’m in despair just a few days ago. Since a few days (weeks) my beloved Audi doesn’t run really funny white but only Wen he gets warm. That means so much the whom I turn him on in the morning he doesn’t vomit and runs almost as before only about 5 minutes later he doesn’t turn up high from Ca 2500 u/min. Motor is a 2.3l with 136 ps. But if he gets on 5000 tours it goes hugely forwards. I am with mem latain at the end. Exchanged pressure driver (no improvement) temp feelr (no improvement) lambda I checked as well as control current At the printer too. The again falls around so warmer he gets mistakenly on zero and can’t be set up Dan either (probe white tried Hmm I think I have now everything thanks you already in advance Mfg Ps: sorry because of the writing method is just from the phone out.

Hello dear community I need urgent help. Have an Audi 80 ABB and with that already some problems I have solved by now. Now to my problem it is not bad that I do it before 5 days drive everything is quite normal and then all of a sudden without warning the car does not jump on when I have turned it off. Slowly I am stunned because I have looked at everything, the air mass meter is changed, fuel pressure regulator ok, ignition ok, poweroff pressure is there and the pump pumps also. If it then no longer starts it smells like gasoline. So if the car does not jump anymore I can have it org until the battery is empty, when it starts it spins once as if it is over again. If I then wait a while and try it again then it comes with blubbering and malfunctions with cold start spray runs however. Hope I have explained it so well and hope anyone can help me ^^ Mfg Chris

Hello, I’ve already looked a bit at the forum, but wanted to have another few opinions. I wanted to buy for ‘n winter evt. nn Audi 80 2.0E. Bj is 92, is an avant and still has TÜV until mid 2015. the car should run well according to the owner and the next TÜV should be no problem. However, the car has almost 300,000 km down, but should also cost “only” 500 euros. fenders in front I would have to either make new or revise. Now my plan: let TÜV do by the owner, take over costs (for the take-off) itself. All of course only if the test drive is good. 300,000 km is of course already an announcement or?

Hello people, for some time now my ABK consumes more fuel than actually necessary. Various parts have been exchanged or adjusted: – Exhaust from Krummer (hosen tube, cat, MSD, ESD) including new Lambda probe – Ignition system partly replaced (Zündkabel, Zündkerzen, Vertriebsrunder) – new air filter (no Sportluffi) – Ignition system from Audi can be adjusted (measurements in the target) – brakes are all common – temperature sensor (blue 2 pole) replaced with new ones from Audi I almost don’t know any more. Fuel consumption commutes at about 10L (40% city / 50% country road / 10% highway) Do you have any tips or suggestions? Have the SuFu “raped” so far but have changed all parts or set them there. Thank you already. Greetings TheRedDevil Audi 80 B4 Avant 2.0E (ABK) 115 PS (not clipped) approx. 246,000km 5 gear switching gears