Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello community! I renewed my chassis together with my KFZti (Audi 80 B4 Avant 2.0) … 4 new bumpers (Bilstein), wheel bearings in front (FAG) , Achsmanschetten (Bilstein), Domlager (Bilstein) … after axle measurement so far as good … car is now like a board on the road … Only if I *full* hit to the left and drive to the right there is a dull blow … I would perhaps describe it in such a way that something out of great tension gets back into position … and we just don’t find it … I would say the blow comes rather from further down … not up from the cathedral / cathedral warehouse / pen plate … -> If I hit to the other side it is not! -> Koppelstand and track rod heads I controlled … tight! -> Cross handlers and carrying joint it can’t be either … notix has game (new). Does anyone know a tip? … experience that I could call you … thank you! Ben!

Hello guys, I’m new here in the forum, driving a cherry red B4. Have so my problems with it, therefore this search for help. The most current problem is that my passenger door does not remain honorable. Whether I lock it or not has 0 influence on it.(That means at the moment I have tied it to the handbrake with the belt, which is of course not a solution. I have a door panel for you, but then it stops. Maybe someone can tell me what exactly I have to look for in the lock. Wär Lieb

They correct me if I’m wrong. I have for some time now the feeling that hardly any new topics are created. If there are new posts, then they are mostly answers to older topics. Previously you could turn on the computer at night and there were always 2..3 new, unanswered questions to which you could plunge into unlimited helpfulness. Somehow I miss that. My life has lost its meaning. Can be of course that the owners of old Audis have no problems with their vehicles at the moment and the need for conversation is therefore less. Does anyone know what?

Hi, I hope someone can help me. My kickdown and my sports button at a b4 automatic 2.0 abk 115ps doesn’t know what that might be about? when I press the button it lights up but it doesn’t turn down as before. maybe someone had the same problem???? would be happy for every answer. thank you in advance. MFG Syl

Hello. Have a nice Audi only increased 121000 km. Now I want and I have to make, sorry the timing belts and wedges again. Can someone tell me what the fun costs.? So calculate with 700€ to 800€.? Well, comes again oil change and once the temperature indicator check there without function. So 1000€ .???? Thank you.

Hello together, I’m looking for a nice beginner car right now! I have an offer for an Audi V8 3.6i 32V Quattro full equipment. Questions about this would be: 1) Can you recommend this great car as a beginner car? 2) What about insurance & taxes, I could start with my insurance with 75%? 3) What about the repair costs? I have to rewind a distance of approx. 300km and daily of approx. 50km… Is it worth a V8 from consumption? Looking forward to your answers 🙂 LG

Hello, I’ve been dealing with the following problem for three days now: With my Audi 100 C4 saloon built in 04/1991, a Sony radio was installed for decades, which has passively controlled the rear speakers. This had to be done because of the originality and I have now built in a gamma CC. This works quite well, except that the rear speakers in the hat rack of course no longer work. This is the Nokia active speakers. I already reset the plug assignment on the radio to the standard according to the enclosed switching plan. However, the plug assignment on the rear speakers is a mystery to me. There are three plugs per speaker (1 x 2 pins, 2 x 4 pins and 1 x 5 pins). According to the circuit diagram, all 5 pins are to be found on the plug with 5 pins. I also did that once… without success. In this case, it is not possible that the speaker has to access all the pins correctly. Thus, the 5-pin connector pin 1 and pin 4 are empty.

Servus The Audi 80 2.0E built in 1992 with 115hp from my dad did not get through the AU again. I found similar problems about the search/Google but no solution. At first at increased speed CO 9.54 (should be 0.30) and Lambda 0.754 (should be 0.979 to 1.030) and at idle CO9.83 (should be 0.50). The 3rd candle was wet and after the exchange the car ran even quieter. Lambda probe I measured (no passage without ignition and about 450mV at ignition) Now everything fits with increased only the CO is still at 9.51 at idle run. What can this be about? The distributor cap + fingers did not see well (deep grooves in the cap, worn end of the finger) Would that affect the CO? Best greetings, Andre

Hi people! I wanted to ask what I could get for my Avant. Here are a few dates: Audi 80 B4 Avant Year 05 / 94 Outer colour dark green Interior colour black 1.9 TDi with 90 hp 307,000km mileage original TÜV up to 08 / 16 engine top maintained, all services performed on time, the engine and the transmission run great. all tires on steel rims ( 4 summer and 3 winter, since a kauptt has gone ) The instrument cluster shows funny things, that is, it shows other things, when it should (very probably cold soldering place on the board ) The interior equipment includes an air conditioning system, 4 electric window lifters and is faultless up to the edge of the driver’s seat. The tooth strap was changed before about 45,000km, the oil was just changed. The cross handlebars are according to friendly still i.o. what is always an important question. Obviously he has smaller scratches and bumps. My question is now what I could ask for for my car.

The one or the other one already knows my coupé and maybe still knows about the problems. Had now in the winter converted to 3 floody lobsters + trouser tube In the first test drive it established that that carburettor setting was like it before had driven forward Ar… Had to change the idle nozzles and adjust air correction then I once invested in a vacuum examiner To finally find out what is at my connections phase (on the carburettor weaver and at the suction spider) So on the Weber I now have the connection for early at the vacuum box of the ignition distributor now it goes in the partial load range really good instantaneous gas absorption also at “Kick down” no more swallowing. But as said only below and in the partial load area, on the top dead … Now I have a low pressure can the connection for early and late, the line from the suction spider is original on late at the underpressure can which I have now left off. But as said only below and in the partial load area, on top dead … Now I have a low pressure can have the connection for early and late pressure is going on the subpressure 0.5.