Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello together, the front axle “Knorpelt” always louder. The TÜV had nothing to complain about in May. When turning on a farm driveway where the axle has to spring is really loud. On bad road straight ahead it “knocks” meanwhile already.Is there a main suspect that I can make myself??

hello I have a 1995 coupe 2,0L 8V ABK. despite all the advices I did not do anything I started screwing at the performance and the end of the song, for now, is already standing up. but why? have given the car a fan bender a larger throttle flap built in and the petrol pressure on 4bar. but still keep the org. camshaft. now he pulls through the bottom of it completely but above it goes out to him and at 180km/h is close. does anyone know what that might be?

Hi sorry if I ask this now for the x-th time, but I have already searched but found nothing, which helps me further. My Agregat carrier bearings are gone, now I want to change these. I heard or read, that you have to support the motor! But as far as you can see the there is no need ?! So I can not just expand the carrier so much ? MfG

Hello together ! I have a big problem with my Audi 80 B4 Avant bj.93 2,0 E ! It is easy for me the ride would have gone out and since it makes it fully mute. it runs up to 3000 U on three pötten, so it sounds at any case. Spark plugs I have made new clean still the same problem, because the cable from the ignition. to the distributor cap not looked so good I have made it even more clean, same problem still. if I let the gas go he falls on so about 400- 600 U and clacks. has someone an idea what that can be. ??? I would be grateful for every tip.!!!! LG Mike

Hello guys, I have a problem with my 2,3 NG again, if I had to start it in the morning he would have to turn it because it’s cold so around the 1100 and when it’s warm the speed goes down to 750, but that’s not what he does after 100 m already goes down to 750 revolutions but that’s not all, it does with that, he jumps on then the speed drops to almost 0 rounder and he jerks and jerks and also does not take a bit of gas, after 30 sec. It runs almost normal and when he there nn so 500 m he runs again like the sow he hangs really super on the gas. Oh and the consumption is in my opinion also a little too high 14.5 liters. That’s what he does only when 2 to 3 hours stands or has stood overnight. Oh and about the search function I have already searched but found nothing real. Greetings

Hello everyone The Odyssey takes its course. Had actually had to register before next week 18 inches on my ́93 ABT B4 and that with 225/40 tyres. Was earlier at the speedometer check on a test bench for the required paper for the Tüv. The speedometer shows, what is understandable because of the larger roll circumference, too little. At e.g. real 120 driven km/h the speedometer shows only 114. Unfortunately they did not get it to me to put the speedometer on or after. (Was a speedometer?) Opel car house with the only test bench display here far and wide, had no other possibility) Now I am sitting quite nicely in the Bredullie. Do you know perhaps where I can have the speed indicator adjusted in the area Hannover in my speedometer? On the net I find somehow absolutely nothing. To me all the companies dealing with this kind of thing have emigrated because of the new legislation in DE all abroad. Although I do not want to adjust my mileage, what is forbidden I was set to problems with the size of the rims and the tyres/cross-cuts but such a cheese. Would be very grateful for any help!

Hello pros! today all day on axle, then just at home I thought to myself, well, no blinker goes, what’s going on now. Well, I’ve got 117,000 km down, it’s probably the steering stick lever for turn signals. Then, suddenly: there’s no light, no wiper, no window activation and what’s not yet known. So, what’s going on? Can the ignition lock be down the turn switch? Car is 16 years young, convertible. the starter never went. Ignition lock switch changed and went again. Has anyone ever had such a thing? Or is the main power supply to the fuse box interrupted? fuses are all ok. Please for info, there is no light anymore! Thanks to you!

Hello Audi driver, yesterday the Audi 80 of my parents did not jump any more.My dad was towed away.The ignition switch was defective – so a new one was fixed at Audi. Today I removed the cladding under the steering wheel as well as the cladding of the steering column + instrument cluster. Then I solved the 2 small screws (fixed with varnish) at the ignition switch to remove the switch and mount the new one. The problem is now that it is not very easy to install the new ignition switch. If I have the ignition key removed and the ignition switch is installed, the starter does not work – because the small plastic groove does not seem to grip.So again with the flashlight lit in and tries to understand what is the phase. As soon as the ignition key is plugged in and rotated slightly (e.g. first ignition position) a pin jumps forward which probably touches the inner plastic pin in the ignition switch and thus closes a contact. At the ignition lock always hangs at a different position – so I set the groove by screwdriver at 9 o’clock which corresponds to the position of the ignition switch – if I put the whole thing together and screw-in I attach the impression that nothing is right in there but slips around.So the starter does not work either.When I turn the key the instruments ect on – but as soon as the ignition position comes to an end – when I then get the key back on Off and off I’m with my Latinum at the endum and hope for your help. I’ve already thought about expanding this whole cylinder but there’s no rush – do you have to expand all the front fittings? Would be grateful for any help.

I’ve already got a cold-running regulator in it. But I haven’t had the chance to register it yet. What does that look like if I go to the registration now? Do I still get the money back from the last months or do I only count that from the day I present the part at the admission? Since I still paid the complete taxes without cold-running regulators for the last year

hello. my car has always or maybe still something…. I put so much in it by now, then he went a while. partly he ran then a few weeks good but now only about 1 day after the reperatur. at first: petrol pump changed…was again top…but only one day. petrol filter…1 day. ignition can be set…3 days. now I changed the reverberator, distributor cap, runner and the cable. he ran a day well and then again the usual. no lei stung. starts cold always very bad. stutters when starting with 2 or 3 zilynder away, but runs after a few seconds “normal.” which is very strange, if I drive into a curve (mostly at smaller speeds – under 80 km/h) and then wants to get back into the gas, the performance goes back in a jerky way. so…I don’t get into the curve with any power and then the one takes away something from me. is not the world but is noticeable. yesterday he braked very hard and stuttered only more, didn’t take any more gas at all. he sounded like he was only running on 2 or 3 zilynder and it was often such a dull knocking or beating… sounded like malfunctions. that was already several times, but it always lay down after about 30 seconds. today I looked at the contact on the temperature sensor. this was a little damp. could that be the reason? please ask for advice. mfg. invi