Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello, soon wanted to make an oil change at my ABT (about 110tkm down) again. Otherwise I used to drive 10 W 40 or 15 W 40, but in view of the favorable price of the highstar oil in the practitioner I wanted to test it. Now I only have the fear that the soup could squeeze out after the change, possibly at the one or other engine seal, because I previously drove thicker oil. I have read this before, or is it a fairy tale? I had lost oil. none at all. Is there any opinions there? Greetings

Hello! It took a long time, but it’s time for a change of the drive shafts. A few questions: 1. Which manufacturer can you recommend? (original parts are too expensive for me) 2. When is it advisable to change the shaft completely and not only, if possible, the joint set? 3. How expensive is the change. Is it advisable to do it yourself as a trained mechanic? 4. The prices for ebay parts are again underground favorable. This probably also applies to d he quality, right? Thanks for your tips! Frank!

Hello people have a short question! I would like to give my Audi Coupe T89 with 2.0E Abk engine an S2 Stabi! However, it only fits if my Stabi is connected to the suspension legs by means of coupling rods! How can I find out now!? Maybe someone has experiences with the S2 Stabi and can tell me a little bit about it?! Thank you in advance mfg Greg

Hello together… I have a little problem with my Audi 80 Avant 1.6E BJ.95. In the forum I read that this engine needs about 8-9 liters fuel. I never manage to drive it like this… I always need 10-10,5 liters to 100 km. What could it be??? What should I change???? Oil change was made before 10,000 km. but I did not change the air filter and also left the old candles inside…. I unfortunately still have another problem. My car seems to be pulling wrong air somewhere. It’s very often that if I stop at a traffic light the speed also remains at about 1300 rpm. After some time it drops down drastically, so that the engine almost runs out. A collegiate thought to me that the idle control is defective. I guess rather that the engine pulls wrong air. Which hoses could I examine, or which hoses are vulnerable?? And another question: I have the feeling that the engine has hardly any power. Can also fool me, but can’t I have the worst thing to do with the two?

Good evening. Need urgent help. Just with the Audi 80, type 89, 1.8 S, year 91 so a half hour highway ride. Speed lt Tacho 160, times to max. 180 When I drove down from the train, the engine went off and no longer started. I have now waited for such an hour. Starter turns normal, tank full, but it does nothing, no signs of jumping. Timing belt is not torn. Would like to mention that the car has always been driven only by my mother in short distance the last year. Have now pushed it now 30 km from home into a small road. What can this be ?? Someone a tip so that I can hopefully get it back to work tomorrow. Greeting amadeus1

So to all D&W, Japan shock and light tuning people: your opinion of because “brings nothing” or “sell the and get n faster” do not need to express itself on this topic! Of all others who have some idea of good old suction engine tuning and know what they are talking about, I would like to hear an opinion and possible suggestions for improvement to my project. Momentary engine: MKB: PP hole: 81 stroke: 77.4 kW/PS: 51/70 single valve:38mm carburettor: 2EE 2p. HD: 105/110 compression. 9/1 are planned: cylinder head of Golf II GTi Edition One MKB: PF hole 81 single valve: 40mm (nitrated) outlet valves as with PP (nitrated) gasifier 2EE with 105/120 main nozzle compression 10/1 are added crankshaft shaft of 1.8 with 86.4mm stroke +Pleuel&colben is possibly even more compaction to 10,5:1 (titrated) filter channels (titrated) loopholes and loopholes.

Hi, I’m looking for a new RS2 lettering for the tailgate. Does anyone have an above me? Or tip where I get it?

Hi, so after a long time back and forth and still no solution for my not working tacho lighting, I decided for the solution (for me) most easily to be realized: out with the lamps, plastic plate in between and again (think about sticking with hot glue to the holes….jajaj sounds of course stuffed, but better than always without driving) with the heater controllers the same (also seperat, stop at the same circle with hang) so first of all: do I need a resistance to it? if so what for one. I also build one in front of it, is clear. maybe still poti?? could take the one from the tacho directly (stops also again with plastic plate in front of the ki, but the place would remain the same) (or is not a poti but tension regulator or as one always calls it, are only 2 connections^^ would make that matter) would please me over help, will be able to see again how quickly I drive without a poti but tension regulator or as one always calls it, are only 2 connections^^

Hi I would like to ask what my audi 80 2.0e (abk) is still worth! year of construction 93 266000km tuv (just new) to 1/2010 parts that have been renewed: -brake cable rear right -brakes good (brake cylinder no rust, nothing clamps) -new brake power distributor -ventilation shaft seals renewed -new belt -new curved -new shock absorber front on both sides -set summer tyres as good as new (alufelgen) -track has been adjusted -exhaust sound absorber new -good as constant compression pressure on all four cylinders (11.2bar; 11.5bar; 11.4bar and 11,3bar) -ignition plugs new -dom bearings on the side new – bearings from the carrying joints new defects: -small rust positions on all doors except driver’s side -coupling easily but not working tragically still great How much can I ask for it?

Hello to the fan community, I am looking for a convertible 80 2.6 or 2.8. and can watch a 2.8 on weekend: EZ: 07/1997 100,000km 2.hand garage car checkbook at Audi up to 80,000 km afterwards MB maintenance problems / errors: front tyres are almost flat, timing belt change must be made and tachometer depends on and on. The following equipment: 2nd hand, 2.8 l motor, 174 hp, 6 cylinder, 5-speed gear, aluminum-metallic, leather seats grey, sports seats front, electr. cover grey, ABS, electron. differential lock, decorative inserts nut tree rootwood, Tempomat, onboard computer, VDO-Ayton navigation system (refitted), Park Boy (refitted), wind bulkhead, air conditioning, service intervalr system, sport leather steering wheel three spokes, cassette radio delta, special equipment Sun Line comfort and style, el. immobilizer, aluminum wheels, front lifter and rear seat.