Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Good evening, I recently bought an Audi V8 Bjh. 89 with 3.6l machine. The car stood dry for 6 years in a heated garage and was then started and driven a distance of 30km. The vehicle was then again 6 months. When you wanted to start the Audi again you noticed that the petrol pump is defective. Pump was then changed by me and the Audi ran smoothly. Then the car stood about 1 week and the new pump was defective again. Battery connected – pump fixed or heard/feeling nothing. Ok, I thought maybe a Monday model caught, new pump returned in and V8 ran. Then 3 days left standing – I wanted to drive the Audi into the garage- pump again dead. Now I ordered a 3rd pump but before I mount these I wanted to know if it might be connected with that the car has very little fuel in the tank and the pump possibly pulled water and then sets itself by it.? My consideration would be jet zt the new pump to install the fuel filter under the car to change and fill in at least 30l petrol so that the pump is also properly under fuel!? Do you have any other ideas?

Hello people Have a question I have an engine of an Audi 80 b4 gasoline saloon 5 cylinders quattro 2.3E at home with gearbox, div and axle suspension and wondered if this fits into an Audi 80 b4 diesel avant front drive? Have all the parts at home just want to know if the engine from the saloon to the avant past and if all the winches for the quattro conversion are available at the avant.

Hello community, I only hope that no overmotivated admin reminds me because of the lack of question character of the post. The problem with the rather poor light yield of the headlights of our old sweethearts should be known. The things glimmer literally yellow in front of them, one is seen, but does not see much itself. At least with the C4 there was then the legal option of the conversion to lens headlights, in addition with many other series the conversion of the light headlight The latter is said to have brought an enormous improvement and was in contrast to most of the Xenon upgrades offered on the net or rally or boat lamps with double performance legally implemented. Now I come to the age when you want to light up the vehicle (and a toilet) and since a new car with Xenon… but maybe without soul and style… you don’t have to look for options for me. I have – quite en against my kind – the advertising and questionable tests believed in the net and bought me a pair of sauteure H4 lamps to replace my old lamps of unknown (but probably DIY – origin. Basically, I assumed to be angry to find that apart from a 50,- € lighter portemonaie I would not notice any change. Expecting that I first installed only 1 of the new lamps and then switched on the light in the evening on the yard. Boooooaaahhhh! I I almost felt like I had only the stable on one side. Was really a rough difference that I would never have expected. Clearly defined, bright white light on one side, yellow nightstand lamp light on the other side. On the lamp pack there is something of 250 hours of life, which may seem – if you like me driving with light during the day – quite short. But I think you usually sit shorter than felt every day in the car. I refuel maybe 3 times a month, 10 hours of operation in the BC. So I would have a lifespan of about 8 months. I’m not going to go any further, because THAT’s worth it. I had photographed the result several times, unfortunately my great non-smartphone camera doesn’t really give it back. Okay… now my question, so that this requirement for an MT theme is fulfilled and the admins don’t (justifiably) start the complaining. How are you satisfied with your light and/or what better light you might have? Oh yes… I’m sure you don’t like advertising for any products. I don’t. I only write about my personal experiences with the “Philips X-tremeVision +130%”.

Hello, I would like to register an Audi 100 from abroad here in Germany. The problem is there is only a copy of the vehicle letter. The original has the local authority and is not available. Is the copy sufficient for the re-registration? And do I still have to make a full acceptance at the TÜV, because there were no COC papers for the Audi yet and you need them for a re-registration. Is there anything else I have to pay attention to? LG and thank you

Hello guys, just wanted to encourage other convertible drivers who had the same problem with a milky rear window as I did. I ordered one in the bay with zipper principle. Was a bit skeptical, because everyone is writing, it is not possible to make it themselves. I changed my disc today and am absolutely overwhelmed by the result. Already at the second attempt of moving in everything sat in the right place. All promises of the seller were in the instruction I have needed with indentation of the disk and then glue about 2.5 hours with another person. I am really satisfied. So trust you people! Greetings Ingo

Moin So I play an Audi 80 as an inexpensive youngtimer. Preferably the 2.0/2.3 liter machine. However, would you have asked a few questions: Given the proportionally large engine capacity, the engines should already be relatively stable… can one still add extras at 200000km mileage? Does someone have some experience with it? And above all, how much can one still put on the volverzink body after the long time? a few hints and tips or purchase recommendations would be super helpful, because I look really old in the topic Audi … thanks already in advance and sorry for annoying!

Hello you! I’m looking again for help and answers… After a while everything ran, now it’s still running… only backwards and downhill! At our Audi the cylinder head was planned by a motor specialist company. We installed everything ourselves. It ran now about 4 months. Last week the bearing shell left the 3rd cylinder at the start. Before that no noise, now crankshaft, conrod, everything full, but FULL Sewed The rest looked really good! Now we, and d so that not so n Bockmist happens again, I ask people have the idea! We have the following on the new used engine before… – Rinse the engine, is blue coolant in it, we were at red – put on the outdated cylinder head, because, that was really not cheap… – Valve cover seal – new bearing shells – new oil pump, because because of spews… – Oil filter, oil, seal, of course, so make conversion from 2 1. Have the Mo Since the engine is from the scrap, still prefers to run directly ZKD… I would now be important to know… – is it on the planned head that the storage shell has said goodbye? The friendly had not told me that I should change the… well, didn’t ask…. – if it was a defective oil pump to return, would the other storage shells then have been directly with Hops? Oil lamp has not started, oil is checked weekly. – W There might have been other causes? – Coolant red was recommended to us at the time, would be more gentle. But maybe it would be better to leave blue or switch to red now? – Should we consider or change something important? I know it would be better to have the whole engine overhauled… But that’s no longer possible financially. If my car is oldie in 2 years, then what am I?? (You don’t have to answer that, of course…) Rejoice me about answers and bedan Don’t get me in front of you! LG Tomtom

Hello, I have a problem with my cab. After both brake calipers were completely fixed in the back I have overtaken the saddles. After I have now aired all 4 saddles, something is not right yet. Air no longer comes. There is a noise from the rear right, where the brake controller is sitting. When the engine is running, there is something going on and it slows down even from the half pedal. Engine off, no noise. Can also build up pressure on the pedal. Thanks for your help.

Hello, I’ve had an Audi 80 B4 Avant Europa with ABK engine and CFR automatic transmission for about a year now. Recently this has the following problem: When starting in the 1st or 2nd gear at low speed there is a strong ruck between 1200 and 2000 revolutions. It also ruptures in the same speed range during braking, but only at lower speeds or gears. Only it occurred at left curves, but meanwhile it also comes from straight driving. Feels like it comes from the front passenger side. I wanted to take a look at the stage this week and see what that can be: In my Internet research I have already come across the possible sources of faults from cross-stem bearings, wheel bearings, drive shaft joints outside, engine bearings, Stabi bearings and gear bearings. However, the cross-stems incl. carrying joints were renewed for TÜV in the autumn. As I understand it, wheel bearings and drive shaft joints should be permanently reported by noise. . Motor bearings look fine, and since the jerking doesn’t occur when turning up in “N”, I don’t think it is. I find it very strange that the jerking only occurs once when starting up and there is no permanent noise. Does anyone still have a suggestion that I should look at it? Thanks in advance!

Moin, I built in my 80s ne thermo top T. The naturally not working properly – used heating olé. Symptoms: After about 2:50 minutes (pronounced ~170 seconds +/- 10) the heating goes off, while it goes up into full load operation. I type that the flame monitor is gone. One hears the flame breathe and it comes hot exhaust gas out of the exhaust when the heating breaks off the operation and restarts. At the time you feel then also like the water sc humming evenly warm up. Had the nose full and removed the thing once. At room temperature the flame monitor c.a 3.7 ohm. I hold my handy pocket gas burner that the tip of the pin starts to glow does something happen on the display of my multimeter… Satte 7,4ohm! Can this be? 3,7 ohm cold and 7,4 hot? Does it seem to me a lot less for a PTC resistance. Thought it would rather go into the kiloohm area if it gets well heated. res? OBD interface is ordered, heating is read out as soon as I have the adapter.. But think that there is only the flame monitor gone. Greetings