Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

I hope you can help me further, I recently bought an Audi Cabriolet with the 2.8l V6 machine and have now asked a few questions about my fuel consumption. In the city I actually never drive over 2200 revolutions and would also say that I need there under 10l/ 100km. Was now the days twice on the highway and had it run properly. The result after about 50km goods a top speed of about 220km/h and a fuel consumption of 17.5 l after just 50km. normal, 17,5l after 50km full throttle ? Would I really be happy about some honest answers !

Hello together, the front doors have probably hung up with my Audi in the course of the years. In the Doityouself book it is written that you should adjust the cones on the caroseries to it. I have tried it with rust releaser, light on it and a 15ner key. Now one round and the other almost round. Both have not been moved. Is there another solution? Do I really have to loosen the hinges and fix the door again? Thanks to you see you …

Hello together… unfortunately it will be due that I have to sell my B4. since I have got a company car with private use and which simply pays off … and 2 cars finance is n bisgen a lot. I would like to build a hall for him and I go there to look at every Sunday… *sigh* but now back to topic. vehicle data: Audi 80 B4 Europe Edition 90 PS 2.0 liter ABT Year of construction /02/1993 KM ca 159000 Twintec KLR -> Control = ~ 130 € Extras: Sliding roof electric El ectric side mirror case rough side cabinets made of wood (Bo Case) left and right radio remote control of In-Pro doorboards from Phonocar winter tires on steel rim all super – 2 are new – summer tires on Audi – aluminum rims still should hold a few kilometers but then new. Predicted: vehicle had 3 accidents , were repaired according to all order by a master workshop ( no fuzzy or so ) insurance damage 1st accident rear damage 2002 2nd accident front damage 2002 3rd accident case Wild damage on the front 2005 Making: on the roof Leichter Lackschäden ( mit Lackstift remedied ) after 2 weeks holiday and extreme heat the paint burst away because there birds have put on it… n. Images:Picture 1Picture 2Picture 3 That was so far firstma What else could you get for the one??? MfG Asgard

Hi together, today I had to give a colleague start help. The dumpling connected my plus pole to its battery at “-” and clamped my minus pole to its engine block on mass. That was of course a short circuit has radioed briefly and he then noticed immediately, before the terminal of the starting aid cable really solidly sass… The battery connection cables on its cart were so faded that one could no longer distinguish the red color from the black one. Nevertheless, i But my engine was running very cool and also the charging control didn’t burn afterwards. Does that mean I was lucky? or can something be blown off, which you don’t notice immediately? So no K*cke, I thought to myself: “Vllt. if I rather push it on, then my car is out of play (by the way is my 9/91 Audi 80 type B4, ABT / 90PS), rather sweat a bit.” – but he said that the battery was so empty So, the current from my battery would have to run back through the starter cable to the connection of its battery, then through its mass cable over the engine block and the other starter cable. Maybe there were so much losses in the cables, terminals and the dusty, greasy transitions (both old cars) that the current at the short circuit was not much greater than e.g. at normal starting ? well, if you like I take g comments and opinions. But should just be a little story for the end of the day. Greetings Bruno

The day before yesterday I stood at the intersection and wanted to turn, there suddenly garnix more the car did not take any gas and the pedal let itself to the floor plate push, Sch… Gaszug ripped I thought, so I in standags to fortunately not too distant parking lot tucked up and I had the problem sometimes chaffed – the Gszug had hung itself out. so I tried to mount the thing again and to a better overview n ́mal short the pedal removed, goes yes fix and without workze ug. I didn’t come any further, didn’t have anything to screw up. So I called the ADAC at the arrived after an hour tried, grumbled what from one comes shit, but to solve the gas train front, so you better get in he turned up the stand gas and thought I should drive so to the workshop – thank you the Statdverkehr with stand gas mhmm…. He just meant “not reparable” and drove away. I called a buddy at the came after 10 min with a wire and a tong. We shook the briefly. the gas rope and I could at least shower home with hand gas. At home I found out the problem were the completely frayed rubbers that connect the gas rope with the pedal, the cost 7 euros the piece at the friendly- way too expensive I decided, so off into the workshop and in the rubber box scrambled see since I was found still biting it and then pasting that. The morale of the shaft: one meter of wire and a tooth save 2 hours of Ze it and a call to the ADAC – due to damage you become smart. I found the problem with the suspended gas train nowhere in the forums seems probably not to happen so often… Greetings from Swabia!

Hi, after about 10 months of service I wanted to start my 90s again, because I registered it with season mark… He jumped right away, then drove about 1000 m slowly without much speed, until suddenly the engine started stuttering and vibrating. After starting it he runs quite well for a few seconds until he starts stuttering and vibrating strongly and then also completely runs out…. Before I put it off last year, I did a engine room wash and got the Mo torraum waxed… after that he had the same symptoms as now, however, these were gone again after the drying of the ignition distributor… I then drove it still nice warm and then turned off…. Now the question is what the reason for the problem can be…. Can it be that something is wrong with the engine room wash and the wax??? I put the oil lid off and looked inside…. somehow it seems to me that the oil looks rusty… as if rust particles are in it n… I’m not quite sure. Oil was changed the same day that I mowed the car… I took off all the ignition cables, cleaned, because I thought it might be a contact error of the cables. (order when plugging together afterward noticed) Did anyone have a few ideas??? I found a lot to problems with the NG in the SuFu, but nothing to my problem…. Greeting Hannes

Hi people have given me a nine sub Now I wanted to ask if the who knows and what is needed so much power, or if who can recommend a sufficient one that I can hang there. Do you think 300 w rms are enough to allow it to run full power Technical details: Magnat Transforce Reference Principle / DIN diameter: Bandpass subwoofer with 300 mm bass driver Load capacity RMS: 400 Watt Max. load capacity: 1.000 Watt Impedance: 4 Ohm Lower limit frequency: 20 Hz Upper limit frequency uenz: 500 Hz Sound pressure: 93 dB Dimensions (WxHxD in mm): 680 x 360 x 360 Weight: 18 kg

first of all hi and before now some rummeckern, I used the search function and read several posts but unfortunately nobody takes me further. now to my problem: I have an audi 80 b3 1.8s 90 ps pm motor and this just does not start. I get a spark, petrol also arrives and control times also fit. I have a new ignition coil installed. if it is cold and I try to start it he goes on briefly and then runs about 10 sec on so in about 300 – 500 turns and goes dan After that, it can’t be started again. however, if I pull out the petrol pump relay or the securing for the gasoline pump, it goes back to as described above. I tested the thermosensor with the multimeter for resistance and this was in the normal range. I also checked the petrol pump relay and this is also in order. now I don’t know what it could be anymore… please help me, need the car to get to work.

Moin municipality, now I have to ask again a question which causes me to break my head for a long time – Nobody is perfect. The NG of my big son turns so sluggishly high as if the 2nd stage would be missing. On the other hand, my Quaddi (NG) is a rocket. All vacuum leaks are fixed, ZZP re-set (yes, in diagnostic mode with strobe lamp), new ignition harness incl. distributor cap & fingers as well as candles (NGK), LUFI new, sensors (except Lamda) new. Hope I didn’t forget anything. Oh yes, after the ZZP was set he ran a few days better, then the old condition was announced again. Especially if it is cold and wet outside, he doesn’t like it at all. Until he reaches the operating temperature, he is partly at the jerking, then it is possible … but not right. From 4000 rpm it can also happen when accelerating that he has short full oscillations, but then again “normal” continues. What can I do about the zosses again to the Re. first thanks for tips. LG, Frank

Evening. I have a strange problem with a NG-motor in a 95 B4 Avant. Today cold started at minus degrees, ran well. Warm driving, all load conditions driven without problems. Set off, about half an hour waited, started and after 50 meters the engine was like closed. No gas on, jerked, stuttered.When I then gave full gas, one noticed how the full load switch did its duty and the engine ran round again and accelerated quite normally. As soon as you gas we Is the pressure regulator defective, or does it have other causes? New parts of the last few weeks: – reverberator – timing belts – Ke rzen – cable – cap, finger. Ignition thus almost excludes itself. For your answers already many thanks in advance.