Category: Audi 80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 Forum

Hello, I’m in possession of an Audi 80 B4 Limosine with 90hp, is it possible to increase the trailer load somehow? I don’t know how to do that, only I know that I can pull about 1200kg (trailer braked), but my horse alone is already taking a good 600kg and an average trailer weighs 800-900kg I already have! Well, and the risk of what happens and the insurance is not paid for because of overload I hate to go in! How do I get to an Audi 80 B4 Limosine with 90hp! m higher permissible draught weight? By more PS? I ask for help! Greetings Lady!

Moin, I’ve built a cruise control so far, worked so well! Look here on page 35http://www.waeco.com/tmp/MS_50_EB_10S_01.PDF With the test “A” everything only works exactly when I step on the clutch, the diode does not light up! And on page 36 the test “B” is described, that also works as it is only there with the clutch not. Don’t understand that anyway as completely as this is supposed to work as the connected one! Look at page 9 there is the switching pl The clutch switch has 2 connections and the one cable goes on the output from the brake light switch and the other again to the control unit. But I don’t understand how this should work… if I do NOT step on the brake but for that, the cruiser should also switch off the clutch but how should he recognize this??? There is no signal, so voltage +12V only come on the cable when I step on the brake so I don’t understand how the function works. can anyone explain this to me? As I said, everything just works out I can’t set the speed during the ride… I don’t like this clutch switch that was there anyway, can’t I use another original switch? Greeting Christian

Moin, since my car is unfortunately a bit of a poltern and the dekra tester has already made me aware of it when entering the rim, I wanted to do some exchange of the following things: Can I do this myself? What do I need to do with it? I have some cheap spring tensioners, this thing with the 2 threaded rods and claws + impact wrench. I changed the dampers once at Golf 2, but only at the back.

i drive Audi 80 type 89 with 14 inch BBS rims and now want to buy new ones, bigger ones better said. Which is clear that I also have to buy a suspension, and yes still tyres. But I’m primarily concerned with the rim size. At the moment I have 14s, and I’m so well aware that 15s fit without suspension and 16s also, plus a suspension. I checked on different sides of rim manufacturers primarily because of 16s. But with one manufacturer it was so that I said was: “our 16 inch rims would fit on their car, but unfortunately there is no test report. they would not come through the TÜV.” I thought to myself ok, then keep others. in the further course of the email, however, I became aware that their 17 inch rims would fit, with the same design. I was only known so far that you can put 17 inch rims on top of the Audi, but also only with chassis and tachoeic elongation (!!!). I want to avoid a tachoeichung in any case, This is not supposed to be so cheap. “17 inch rims would fit on their car, even without tachoeichung! These rims have a (wheels) solidity rubber and therefore a calibration is not necessary.” Is that true now that 17 inch rims are possible even without Echung, or does this manufacturer only want to sell its rims at any price.

Hi, to all those who know, I have a problem that my hydropunch clatters. Now I have the intention to change the twelve and I wanted to ask if the cracks among you have a few explosions for the block. Furthermore, my gearbox will just die in CAC if someone could give me drawings and tips as I can overtake the thing and what I should pay special attention to, that would be so cool! For your help I would be very grateful!!

I recently bought an audi 80 b4 bj.92, in the glove compartment I found this here: [link]http://g22.img-up.net/2508200953JFuAV.jpg[/link] [link]http://a85.img-up.net/2508200953qXZxjmjD.jpg[/link] [link]http://l12.img-up.net/2508200953hzuG9iu.jpg[/link] [link]http://t39.img-up.net/2508200953n2rvy4.jpg[/link] because some electrical things (e.g. electric sliding roof) don’t work, I thought that this was going to come in somewhere…. and what else can I find out if I have a zv? So if I have one then it doesn’t work, but I guess I have one, because I don’t know how to close the tank lid, because there’s no conclusive, and somehow it has to go, so I think I’d have to have one…

My car makes my hair gray! Always something new. For some time the engine is running on only 5 cylinders. I already tried to see sparks, other ignition cables. At BOSCH service I had a compression test on the cylinder done. This resulted in 7.5 bar, which the performing mechanic thought was okay. Since the car on LPG runs as unevenly as on petrol… I would have thought now that no petrol or gas is injected into the cylinder. Or what can this be done? What about compression? When I look at some compression diagrams on Google, they usually stand at 10 or 11. What would I have to have or are the 7.5 bar for the approx. 320,000km okay? The car ran unround after starting….although I was driving a normal highway 3 hours before…everything quite normal. Car parked…after 3 hours I wanted to leave again… and there he was running**. I am grateful for every tip. P.S. If it gets really bad, an a Change machine/a different head. Do all AAH engines fit with 128kW (Quattro, B4, C4… switch, Automatic…)?

Hi guys, I’m driving an Audi 80 B3 1.6 TD. Last week I noticed the control lamp for the coolant level on the display during the ride. My first glance was of course at the temperature, which then showed me over 100 °C. When I stopped I noticed that the 1. the fan did not run at all and 2. that it pushed the water out of the balance tank. Of course the first measures were thermostat and then swap Wapu, since the engine was still hot, but f, I had thought of the temperature sensor for the fan. However, since I had no one to hand, I simply put 2 cables in front of me in the interior and clamped the switch on so that I could turn on the fan manually. Also this had no effect, the engine nevertheless became too hot. After a short test drive I noticed, however, that the lower cooler hose, that was just warm to the wapu, while the upper one was already damn hot. So I took off both around the cooler you The only thing I could still imagine was air in the system. but it doesn’t vent itself?!?! If no, how did I unleash the right one? PS: Cylinder head gasket is only about 3 months old in advance Thanks for your answers, don’t know any more by now… I’m not sure if I’m going to be able to do it again.

hello so the engine dies every now and then when I start a cross and then it no longer jumps on (so not immediately) when I try to start in dan tukert he so shortly before jumping on (full gas) is then so on 100 u/min. and smokes black out.. I try again and so about 5 min he jumps again as nothing who! changed parts: Ignition coil Ignition distributor knock sensor air meter.. empty running regulator changed the parts because he stammered under driving and has te drop off at 3000 u/min and in empty run always up and down with the drezahl 800-1200 u/min now he is just dying away … does someone know what that is or did you already have it yourself?

I have a problem, maybe one can help me. My speedometer lighting suddenly doesn’t work anymore, fuse no.5 is fine (clock, inside light etc…) everything works, also the fuse no.12 for the instrument cluster is quite. When I turn on the ignition all the control lights burn, and the illumination of the clock also works, only when I turn on the light, nothing does work (when the ignition is switched on, the lighting of the clock goes off). Elleicht still somewhere else a fuse…etc.. that you can check Would be grateful for any help without instrument lighting, it is quite stupid.