Category: Audi Motors Forum

Hi, everybody! I bought an A6 2.5 l TDI from Bj 99 with 180 tKm. But the box doesn’t come out of the stockings at all.The fuel consumption is 9.6 liters after a computer on board and it doesn’t turn over 3000 revolutions.It doesn’t show me any error code or anything else.It doesn’t smoke either, jumps immediately. Only if he sees a mountain he goes uncanny in Keller even when speeding up on a straight track. What would you typing?Lmm or Turbo or maybe something else? I am grateful for your advice. Nice greetings Torsten

Hi Leutz! Short question regarding stability / durability of the following 3 engines: – 1.8T engine (209 hp or 215 hp at the S3) – TDI pump nozzle (136 hp A3 TDi or 150 hp Golf) – V6 (Golf IV V6 4-Motion) Sure, it depends on the respective driving method on it. But I would like to know which of the 3 engines 200tkm without probs. rattles down!? Would like to buy me a fighting machine again this year (after 1 year Cabriocruisen). (see threat Audi TT by me) The S3 would be a fine part, unfortunately h ab i read in various foren deshöfteren of extremely many motor damage, which makes me a little thoughtful. A turbo diesel with ordenlich Nm would also be fat. Economical and neat pressure. But a gasoline is just something else. The V6 Golf 4Motion would certainly be the most stable engine (from my sight) of all three. But the fact that it is permanently blubbert with all-wheel and then still with 2.8liter ccm, let on a lake very high consumption close Me is auc h clear that a machine with more than 200 hp does not fly with air, but the fuel should not just go through it. Would be very grateful for tips and advice!

Hi! For some time now it sounds as if a cylinder is running louder, which makes itself felt in an ‘unround’ running noise. However, the engine runs round (no jerking or drop-off). When it is cold you notice it especially. I suspect that one of the injection nozzles is not quite ok anymore. How long do they normally hold? I have now about 160Tkm down, but only long distance (tempomat). I have seen that a cable is connected in a valve (2-adrig). I have little experience with diesel. But before I bring the car into the workshop I prefer to know what’s going on. They change everything at my expense. wait for your answer Greeting PROF

Hello, I’m new here and unfortunately I haven’t found anything about the search function, I have the following problem with my A6/C4 2.5 TDI from 1996: The car starts at warmer temperatures (over 5 degrees) only after a very long time, if it is colder it glows before and then starts perfectly. All filters, glow candles and the battery have already been changed. Can anyone help me further? mfg Timo

Hello Audi driver, just now I found out in the Audi configurator that both the A3 Sportback and the A4 Avant have large holes in the engine pallets. I can no longer find the 170hp diesel at all, the 1.8 TFSI only in a 160hp version on the A4. Just like the 1.4 T(F)SI in the A3 with only 125 instead of 140 or 170hp. All engines in all possible power classes, whether petrol or diesel, are however available in the corresponding VW vehicles, yes even the Audi driver. i Skoda! Is there currently a change or what is Audi doing for a mischief? Perhaps WA here, who can explain this? Gr, Mac

Hello, I came on a diesel 3 months ago and really have fun at the 2.5 TDI ( AKN ) it runs as far as I can judge it really great after the exchange of the air mass meter. Now I would like to help him something on the jumps in terms of performance what can you do what you should leave? Thought of a tuning box, steam wheel, open filters and maybe another loader and nozzle. Can you easily install a blow pop off that is now available for diesel or are these harmful to the motor, knows that the valve does not increase the performance but I like the hissing, well the child in the mane. Unfortunately, know me only with color, therefore I hope for help or good advice.

Timing belts a topic that concerns many. It would be interesting to present an overview of real damage! Only the users who had a timing belt damage should specify this here. The following information would be desirable: car type, year of construction, engine cylinder number, performance KW/PS, KM-stand at the occurrence of the damage event, the period (e.g. after 6 years); possibly what caused consequential damage of the crack. Please no discussion when timing belt change, but a It should be an overview of real damage.

Hello all, have an A3 3,2ltr. currently 4 years old and almost 30000km. Vehicle is coded on Longlife, but after the entry time at approx. 4000km as well as at 17000km and now at almost 30000km always completely changed with Castrol SLX II 0W-30. The problem, (or is it possibly no problem) is when I look into the oil filling opening right at the spray protection I see a completely bare chain tensioner from above. Unfortunately the inner area of the chain has nkasten quite dark spots ( deposits ) does this look like this in the engine or does the oil coal? like to put off on the aluminum of the chain box? Can that be already oil coal in there will be powerful too warm? How can I get the stuff out? Although waste oil does not smell like fuel or the like. But looks like it was 50000km in it. Can I do something with another released oil which may have other additives. Motor behaves otherwise ok, oil consumption is nor times. Or I see the thing to bite A tip of a motor (oil) speci’s would be very nice. Greetings Philipp

(Sorry for double mail; the thread is already in the A4/8D range, but here more answers are assumed, which the question is relatively general. ^^) Hello dear Audi fans! The following question to you: I will go back to school from August to make my master. ^^ Must then travel about 100km every day. To 95% highway. Have thought, that I now, where I still earn money my car chip. I heard that you can save fuel on long distances by driving normally. D Once in a while I just need the “kick”! Now the real question: you can also “chipping” the engine by cutting the electronics individually to the car. Heist software adapt, to the test bench, re-adjust, re-test bench, …. and so on. I heard about this method and tend strongly in this direction than just clapping the chip. Has anyone had experience with it? Is this method w I come from the vicinity of Frankenthal / Ludwigshafen / Mannheim, but I would already drive about 100km to get this done! My Audi: A4 Limo 1.8T 150PS Built:99 120,000 km Facelift K&N Sports air filter Blow-off valve ^^ (I love this sound!!!) Timing belts / V-belts and all the pleasures made completely new 100km ago Oil: 0W30 Longlife Full-Synthetics I really care a lot about my Audi and ic h have to drive for a long time! That’s why the “tuning” should be gentle for the car and not so that I can get a new turbo after 3 months. ^^ Thank you for every tip! Greetings, Thomas from Studernheim. 🙂

Hello guys, I have the following problem: Power loss on the Audi A 4, 1.9 TDI, 81 kw, year 97, as if the LMM is defective, Audi checked and detected LMM is OK, but the turbocharger clamps a flap and possibly also the control unit is over (error memory indicates encoder for the suction tube pressure). So new turbocharger and possibly also new control unit, costs approx. 2000 Euro, with the amount I fall over naturally. Can the defective turbocharger actually the control unit also in pity How do I get it cheaper? Of course, I’m also afraid of scammers who sell me some junk. The car has now run 146,000, actually the Tloader shouldn’t be broken yet, is there a chance of culling?