Category: Audi R8 Forum

Hello together I have found a “rattle” at my Spyder. The rattle occurs, e.g. in the second gear, slightly undertoured, accelerated. This noise comes from behind. My garage suspected a loose part, e.g. the heat shield. Today the whole rear was dismantled, unfortunately without success. Currently the request is running at Audi in Switzerland and in Germany. The mechanics suspect a problem in the gearbox. Until this evening it was not yet clear how it continues and whether i We decided to leave the Spyder on the spot and wait for the report. The car has now just 1’000km on the clock. I now got a new S8 as a replacement (520 hp) also not bad. 😉 Gruss Traugottle

I have the Carbon Sigma decor inserts. If I want to order more carbon parts from BKS or carbon-factory for example, do they correspond to the same color and structure as the factory? VG !Frecher_Keks

Hello, what’s the right tyre pressure at 20,245 vo / 305 hi)? On the sticker in the driver’s door unfortunately only the values of the 19,1 (ex works) are on me. Maybe someone has a current V10Plus with 20,1 ex works and can tell me the values specified there. My Audi dealer, as well as a tyre house all tell me different values … Thank you in advance!

hello, with my r8 – so far about 400 km down – I have the following 2 problems since yesterday: 1. the brakes squeak, especially at very low speeds and light braking, such as slow braking in front of a red ampel. this is not a quiet squeak, but very loud and persistent. could go crazy. that’s not possible at all. sounds like a 20-year-old carrot. 2. with not even background (so everything that is not perfectly straight, smooth asphalt) hears m it is at least as annoying as driving with wet chalk on a board. I can’t locate the noise, it can be heard clearly when the windows are closed. guess that the brakes are either also slightly grinding or are caused by the suspension. the latter seems more likely to me, since the noise disappears with a flat track (if the brakes are grinding, it wouldn’t be the case if the driver were to use the brakes). all). long talk, short meaning: does someone know these problems and if necessary, he knows approaches to the solution? btw: at audio I still watch over it today. but they have already indicated that this could be difficult. so I would be really grateful for tips! dear greetings, steve.

Hi Together, after 3 years I can pull the option and switch my R8 V10Plus 2018 model against the current one. What gives me something to think about are: – OPF – limiter up to 3000 in the stand – damper system actually castrated — Does anyone have experience between these models? I will get a presenter from IN next week, but I’m doing really hard. Advantage of the new: Significantly improved chassis and dynamic steering which unfortunately is not integrated with me. And I can In the summer this would be much better than my previous sports seats, where I always had a wet back. What do you mean?

After I didn’t know before that my R8 had a “out-of-puff flap control” for the more well-kept pronunciation of the eight-cylinder (doesn’t exist in Audi …), I have now found a description of how this limitation can be easily removed. Has anyone tried it yet? Did they have experiences with it? Here is the instructions:”Under the right (seen from behind) engine compartment cover (open clips by quarter rotation) OF THE RIGHT HAUBENLIFT MUST BE ALSO DISCOVERED N, THE CLIP WASTE is a vacuum storage box. THIS IS BLACK AND SEES FROM THE COUNTRY CALLS ON TWO OR THREE INSTRUCTIONS. A small electrical valve from which a vacuum hose leads to the storage box is also closed. FROM THIS VENTIL TO THE SUB-PRINT TAXED PUBLISHES. Remove the plug (cable, not hose!), THE STRROMSTECKER WASTE, NO KEY. YOUR COMMUNICATION SONS T WOOL A RECOVERY IN THE COCKPIT. fasten with cable tie somewhere so that it does not dangle around, fix engine cover again and finish! Shut up is now permanently open. IN THE STAND YOU DO NOT HEAR A DIFFERENT, as I WOULD THE KLAPPE FIRST BE IN THE LOSS HOLDINGS. Since THE NON DOESN’T DO, THE VEHICLE HAS NOW PERMANED THE KLANG, which IT SPECIALLY HAD BEING STARTED AND FROM CA.70 KM/H. ON THE LAUTH STRENGTH IS NOT CHANGED TO ALSO, ONLY THE KLANG IS SPEED IN THE UNDERSTANDING ONLY IN THE CHAIR: MRS FONTAINE Vice-President of the Commission. — (DE) Mr President, ladies and gentlemen, I should like to thank the rapporteur for his excellent report.

My R is currently in the AZ. Now I got a call that both axles would have knocked out. Cost point about 10,000 euros. However, there would be an action on it. I have to buy 2 axle heads myself, which together amounts to 800 euros, the rest pays Audi. In other words, a good 9,000 euros are taken over. Who knows what everything is exchanged? At first I thought a certain crack would come from the H&R springs. I guess that’s not so. In addition, he pulls partly quite extreme and strikingly into light track grooves. I hope e times, that has an end afterwards. V8 57,000KM 2008er

According to our colleagues from the English forum, only a few brackets are supposed to be changed at the front apron and the tail apron should be adapted to the exhaust, see:https://www.r8talk.com/…/…8-2019-facelift-bumper-conversion-3.html Who has done it with us and can tell us his experience with the conversion regarding compatibility and price?

The R8 is referred to as a sports car, but that’s not really what I think it is. Especially with the series 420hp V8 engine, no gigantic driving performance can be expected. My goal was now to get to and even exceed the performance of the V10 with 525hp with the R8 V8. See even total weight it is now 1440Kg with full tank ( series 1640Kg ) acceleration of 100-200KM/h with 8.6s at 30 degrees outside temperature ( series at approx. 11s ) Tom

Hello municipality With my R8 the dust protection mesh (cross-linker right) is capped, see attached picture! Is actually only “a small hole” in the cuff, where everything is dry, nothing leaks or is knocked out! Now I have inquired at Audi about the exchange of the cuff (though such a cuff can not cost the world) then the estimate: 4.701,83.- “Answer from Audi: here you get the estimate for the desired work. The reason for the installation is that the dust protection cuff is not available individually, so that the crossbar has to be replaced. However, this crossbar has been replaced from 2011 and has no M12 head anymore, but an M14, so that both the wheel bearing housings and the lower crossbars have to be replaced. In this case the front axle also has to be adjusted again” I thought only I am in the wrong movie… Unfortunately this is sad reality (see KVA) My question: only because of e in the “Cheap Cuff” immediately sums up the whole “front axle” to exchange, there is any cheaper solution than a repair of 4701,83.- ? Actually I could leave everything like this (as described nothing wasted or knocked out), but I have to go to the TÜV next month.If the one faults this cuff, this must be done! Does someone have an idea/solution that is cheaper (except I sell the whole box…)