Hello, once again at Ebay, I have done a B&B silencer for mine and when he was there yesterday the disillusionment: the report is for the 132kw engine. Yesterday the seller didn’t want to see this and said he already fits and he doesn’t care about the report, since today he doesn’t answer any more…very great! Now to the exhaust: according to Verk. he has only run 3000 km. Can’t judge if that’s right, he does look great in any case and is made of stainless steel. Pictures are available at http://www.bb-automobiltechnik.de/bb2004/de/produkte/abgas/abgasanlage_tt.php According to ABE he is for the Quattro, to what extent he is suitable for a conversion to Quattrolook at nem Frontler is white I net, walk it could certainly, here have already mounted the original Quattro ESD. If I’m interested in just a PN. I also know that this actually belongs to a Bite, but if I don’t want to spend it forever, but I have a lot of time, but I’s worth of money, I have time to buy it again because I’s time and I’s worth to buy it again and I’s again I’s time
Category: Audi TT Forum
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Bilstein B16 PSS9 where to buy cheap?
I have a Bilstein B16 in front of me, but I don’t want to spend more than 1000 euros on the material. The cheapest offer I have found so far is EUR 1200,-, which is just too much for me. Does someone know where to get to the chassis cheaply (my dealer wanted 1600 + 400 installation). Would be great if someone could help me further. Thanks already
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Armrest/Cupholder combi Collected order
Moin municipality. On this page I found a very suitable Kombi Cupholder / Armlehne, and that about Ebay there should cost the in instant purchase 219 Euronen. I radioed the time, and asked for a discount with a collection order … yes and now my question to you: Who would be interested? If I have a concrete number of interested parties, then we can judge the price. So, pure, I would be interested, but not for 219 A nice day from the Eifel, close to the Nürburgring *g* Stefan
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Timing belt change Images/Instructions
Hello, would need an illustrated guide on how to change the timing belt with the 1.8 he TT motor. zwear was already at the TT Wiki forum but there is only one picture where the location of the water pump can be seen. I am grateful for every hint. Maybe someone has changed the part himself and can describe in rough moves what you have to pay attention to. lg. Silversurfer70
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New tyres and rims, now 15 KMH slower
Hello Yesterday after a long time I came back to the highway (and what a miracle, she was almost empty).Unfortunately my TT (225 Roadster) didn’t want to run properly.At 245 speed indicator was over, before he always went up to 260 (and that also not as tough as now on 245).Can it be that my new rims (18 inches-225/255er) steal so much speed?Or does it have to have another cause? Do me worry now, since I have read so much about defective air quantity meters here already, and my just 3 months ago was changed during an inspection (exchange action).Can it unfortunately not test myself, since I don’t own a VAG Com. I am grateful for any help Greeting Stephan
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Let’s ask you a question.
Why buy a small TT, convert it with powerful coal, chip it with all consequences – also insurance technology – puts it on killer rims, which cost a pig money…….. instead of buying a 3.2 TTRQ right away????? Insurance: HP 11, VK 16, That would be an argument. OK, OK, OK…if you like to make something here and there what, hobbyically just, is that in order. But for daily use the orischinole would be probably more useful? Yes…………………………………….. stoned me, to touch me (I know already 🙁 but I want to ask the question anyway. Used 1-year Audi TTR 3.2 with 10,000 KM costs about 32,000 euros.Full equipment, driving gear etc. Did not need to chippen nix change it Must not push coal on insurance…. so why do you do that?
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Centring of ABT distance disc broken for the second time
Hello everybody! man man man, I’ve been getting the coffee really up. had already posted that I always had such a wummern between 140 and 160 km/h in the car. was tapped on gear formation.. was then today to the tire dealer, because the matures are actually quite new and he immediately said that the mature had no centering anymore. could be seen very well; if you turned the wheel it totally eated… then the wheels were taken off and immediately saw that both centring rings were broken on the rear wheels… no wonder that you have noises in the car. not to mention the danger. and the whole thing has happened to me for the second time now. exactly the same thing I had already done a year ago. funnyly, it has always happened behind. in the front of the dinger as well as in the 1. have already noticed that the distance disc is not quite lying on the back. has already had this happened to me? the discs are released for the vehicle. funnyly, it has always happened at the back.
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Juuhuu fuel expensive as never
What a joy, at last I have a plan like I destroy my money even faster. At a price of 1.44 per liter the dirty euroware goes down so quickly from the account that you don’t have to be afraid anymore that overruns the account Can’t even get rid of these speculators on the oil market? With what they can do you almost think that this profession is soon one of the most risky things in the world. Every soldier in Iraq has to sleep more quietly than one of these disguised spectacles ….. . So then I’ll go for a round ride ps: something of ot
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Garstiges Rattern – Warehouse damage?
Servus, since a 800 km highway ride (max. speed 130) and then 14 days of garage shutdown, is a very nasty ratter on my TT. It started with a jerking when starting or braking, as if something was loose and “rested” then at the load changes accordingly to the stop. Then it got worse and occurred in frequency: Again at load changes, e.g. when I take the foot off the gas after acceleration or only cruise, you heard and felt clearly a ratter. After about 50 km it became a constant condition then. Only when I speed up vigorously, it stops. Summary: – Ratters when rolling and cruising with little gas – in conjunction with heavy vibration – with and without clutch – with and without clutch – with and without inserted gear – especially bad at full steering impact – less bad at the speed up. Therefore I am still of the opinion, it is the drive shaft to the Voderachse, knocked out camp e.g. How is your forecast? And what is especially interested in me: if it is a fault of the factory? What does not cost the whole drive?
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Presentation
So, now that I finally had ne digicam at hand and the suspension is finally set, I imagine here with my treasure I have it since 1. august Bj. 99 45t km TTCQ 224ps 30mm gauge front and rear H&R winch front tires: 225/40 to 18x8J Antera rims Rear: 255/35 to 18x9J rims And another endpot, but also audio so now a few pictures