Category: Audi TT Forum

Climatetroniccodes ??? [FAQ] I have heard of codes that can be entered at Klimatronic and you can read temperature and speed… At ebay they are also auctioned. Is there anything about it and how to enter the codes???? I was looking for them in this forum, but didn’t find out about it anymore…

Say, are there surreptitiously spreads with ABE that I don’t have to register? Would you like to build something but without registration and still legel – think an additional entry in the ticket doesn’t make so good when selling again many people think: “encumbered = heated like sow” … At least something like that would go through my head. Tulura PS: If someone wants to get rid of a track widening… PN!

Hello This is my first post in these forums. You probably have the most experience with the 1.8 t I drive a Bora Variant with an AUQ 180 psund 6 course. The driving performance is a little bit bad than bein TT. I also bigger and heavier than a TT. Recently I am on the highway against a Seat Leon with 150 TDI ps with 6 course risk and could just keep it behind me. Is that normal. The TDI’s are going quite well but I didn’t think so well either. my engine I hear the 20 valves quite clearly and it sounds almost like a diesel at idle. That’s what I believe from the belt. Is that normal too. The engine is running well on the other hand. mfg mchoppi

Which one of you has Zimmermann brake discs on his TT. Which combo do you drive – Zimmermann + Ferodo ? Is it worth the change from your point of view at all, or should you go straight to the complete system ( Brembo or similar )?

What kind of “ready” subwoofer solutions for the spare wheel dump? I found here what: http://www.i-sotec.com/en/products/i-sosub.html Alternatives ? But don’t want to build something like this myself…

After our last Threat arrived here in the forum, where we got a TT225 with chip and a TT180 with chip using tachovideos very well, we met in the wild last weekend times in the early morning and let the babies compete directly against each other. Since in the old Threat also a Honda driver and which have spoken from the Leon Forum is still a Honda Civic Type-R and a Seat Leon Cupra R with 1.8T 225 hp without chip from the game. As Kamerw In the old Threat came the idea of having a Honda Civic Type-R compete against a TT180. Unfortunately, this was due to bad weather and a too slow car that Leon nciht was able to do in the last weekend. As you can see, the difference between a ribbed TT225 Quattro and a TT180 front in the range of 100 – 200 is not so big. The TT225 has more horsepower, but unfortunately also a good 200 KG Leergewic The TT225 does the TT180 only from Tacho 230 KMH, so it is for people who might want to get a TT in the future a very good insight into the performance of the two different models. On the other hand, you can see that a ribbed TT225 of a similar car (Leon 1.8T 225hp without a chip) can easily drive away in every gear We have the test between TT180 with C hip and Honda Civic R type performed, unfortunately the picture material is too bad. The cars were up to 200 in the same way. So now have fun watching the video Here’s the link to the old threat:http://www.motor-talk.de/t672606/f163/s/thread.html Here’s the first comparison, TTC225 vs LC225:http://213.131.227.84/~old/Videos_vom_05062005/TT275-LCR225.wmv (The last two attempts 5th & 6th gear) Here’s the second comparison, TTC180 vs LC225:http://213.131.227.84/~old/Videos_vom_0506200 5/TT205-LCR225.wmv Here’s the third comparison, TTC225 vs TTC180:http://213.131.227.84/~old/Videos_vom_05062005/TT275-TT205.wmv Thanks to all participants, especially to Zebu the lively Honda!

Hi @t all, had for a long time had the problem that my TT sometimes badly sprang up in the morning: The starter didn’t turn “so right” and besides, I had the phenomenon that the rev indicator started to “work” after about 2-3 seconds after the start process (it just remained these 2-3 seconds on “zero position”. Yesterday after work I wanted to start my car. I was lucky that it even started because there was almost no “juice” anymore in the battery seemed to be. So I turned off ALL consumers (radio, ventilation, air conditioning….) and first off to the BAB to “charge battery”. After I drove a good half hour I turned off the car for testing, waited a few seconds and started again. That went without probs. But this morning the disillusionment again: When starting almost GAR NO battery power was more there but I got the car still started on the last Rille. At the same time gi The control lights and the display are almost completely off! In addition, the date/time display was set to “0”. Just then I removed the battery (year of construction KW15/2000!…) and bought me a new battery in the accessories (12V/62Ah). Jeztz starts the car again perfectly! 🙂 I hope the start problems and the “macke” with the rev indicator was really due to the old battery. What do you mean?

How does a popoff in the TT work? Does the overpressure automatically push back the membrane/spring so that the charging pressure can escape, or is this controlled by the vacuum hose? The background to the question is the installation direction of the forge valve. The starting problem is the conversion of closed (forge) into an open one. Has worked to date without any problems. Since the latest, it no longer holds any stationary gas, sporadic error messages with “LMM signal too high” The valve seems to be mechanically ok. If I switch back into the forge it runs, but only with lower power (no error indicator), however, sounds as if it also fades when giving gas. Had a marten damage in the insulation on the same day, all the hoses searched and found nothing. The forge as “open” operated does not work either, because it then shows the same symptoms as before (Turbo then works, but pale Does anyone have an expert opinion? MfG Hanjo

Hello first of all I am new here and have immediately real problems I try to describe the case limited!! After long and intensive search I thought to have found my dream TT. A TTC Bauj. 99 with 165KW Eisenman Alus etc. Km 87000 As said Thursday picked up and on the way home made about 80 KM arrived at me at once the water control light sounded well I thought can be maybe very sensitive of the water tank and shows s the next day water on it and from re-registering on the way there he immediately scared me again when speeding up and again water void. Immediately to a friendly diagnosis head seal!!! That has already cut me full from the stool driving with the car whole 110 KM and head seal flatt !!! Well what should the skull have down and and and immediately everything new seals, candles, spark plugs etc. yesterday from the workshop car to pick up. Ne too fr üh happy the Freundiche then reported to me immediately and also showed with a cold light endoscope motor damage hair crack in the 2 running box. I am at the end of the seller takes nothing of it and I am now sitting on the harm !! Has made such an experience of you alreadyaml and I would be grateful if you would give me addresses if you have some where you used or also new engines possibly also link etc. Thanks !!!

Since there are so many problems to discuss, I open up another topic: DREAMCARS – what are your dream cars / what would you put yourself in the garage if money didn’t matter… My personal dream car (soon): Porsche 996 Coupe Turbo in black …….still 3 months… Gruss Jopo