Category: Audi TT Forum

Is unfortunately English, but I found it very interesting. Comes directly from Borg Warner: Quote: Dear Sir, thank you for your interest in our products. First of all, we don’t produce any turbo that we call K03S. But I hope I can answer your questions with the following explorations. All the following turbos have the same installation dimensions and thermodynamic performance. The differences are only in the actuator that opens the turbine bypass valve: K03-011 (5303 988 0011) 150 hp, 6 5 N actuator K03-026 180 hp, 85 N actuator K03-035 180 hp, 85 N actuator K03-044 150 hp, 65 N actuator K03-045 156 hp (Ibiza Cupra), 85 N actuator with 2 ports K03-049 150 hp (Sharan/Alhambra), 65 N actuator The 180 hp versions have an actuator with a higher opening force due to the higher exhaust gas pressure (which is a consequence of the higher boost pressure). Otherwise the value would be pushed open by the exhaust gas pressure. The following turbines are a further development (s since) 2000) and have an improved and slightly larger compressor while using the same turbine (still with the same installation dimensions): K03-052 180 hp, 85 N actuator K03-053 150 hp, 85 N actuator K03-058 150 hp/180 hp, 85 N actuator Consequentially, putting a 180 hp turbo on a 150 hp engine will not bring about any change in performance, but putting on a K03-052/053/058 instead of the older versions will bring a light improvement in engine efficiency. CU you can achieve about 215 hp without danger of overspeeding the turbo. With the older turbos, 195 hp is the limit. With the K04 that’s also commonly used (5304 950 0001) the power output should not be more than 220 hp. That means, changing a K03-052/053/058 against a K04 does not make a lot of sense. I hope that these details answer your questions. If you need more info, one of our service distributors will be glad to help you. Their addresses are on our website www.turbodriven.com. Best regards, BorgWarner Turbo Systems GmbH Sales IDS – Technical Support Christian Seibert

Hello. I recently got a TT. 180 HP front drive. Somehow I miss the power. Had a Corrado with 136 HP before. Can it be that with my engine what is wrong? Actually it runs quite normal. So because of clattering or rattle, you don’t hear anything. Are there any components that, if they are defective, simply reduce the power, but do not make themselves noticeable?

Hello, I have a little problem with my TT, wanted to ask if someone has heard of this problem or had it himself. As soon as the engine is really warm (so from 20 km travel distance) lights up my oil control light, but only if I have to stop before a traffic light or a crossroad or drive very slowly. As soon as I am on the road there is no problem. The oil level is of course fine. The annoying and you have a mega bad conscience, because It’s something lazy when the indicator light comes on. Thank you in advance for your answers P.S.:If this is actually a TT Macke with the temperature indicator, I’ve read so many times. mine also: times there, times away, times there, times away, real to vomit!!

Moin moin, I want to have the new Audi key for my TT. Who has already completed the conversion? Here’s a pic of the new version – but my old-fashioned one looks…

Hello, for a few weeks (time is not definable, since I don’t always drive around like a poacher) I have a (subjective) power loss. At least it seems to me that my 225 quattro with WKR chip currently has significantly less power than it was 4-6 weeks ago. Sure, now winter tires are on it – but can they alone cause a really noticeable power difference? This whistles and roars without end – but Audi didn’t change it during the inspection… I should have explicitly stated – they usually don’t know their own cars. Normally my TT always went through with flat and dry road and full throttle in the second gear. This happens now with the same road situation rather rarely. In addition, just looking against a BMW 325i relatively bad (though faster, but only rather light). But also my subjective impressions tell me: something is not right. Therefore, my question: what else could be the causes of such a loss of performance? Thank you for all the tips!

Hi guys, I’m just about to make my vehicle with the help of “negative tuning” TÜV-ready. I threw out the Greddy Blow Of valve and again installed the serial rewind valve. Besides, I also renewed the hose from N75 to the Wastegate. It looked cracked in some places. After a few kilometers of driving I had to find out that the charging pressure control generates something like an overboost. In conjunction with the currently dropped below the freezing point again. Temperatures are now going off like hell (compared to a normal 180) and, according to the LDA, it pushes up to 1.1 bar during the spontaneous full throttle, but only for a very short time as a peak value, in order to then fall to the usual values. Analogous to the rash of the display, you will also notice at first a rough torque in the back, which then, if you stay on the gas for longer, normalizes again. Incidentally, the GZ has remained in it, but will also fly until the TÜV. To make a rhyme about where the overboost came from? Didn’t that happen before the Greddy installation, only now, after the removal.

Moin people, … had already asked this in another thread, but received no answers … since I opened a thread again Since I verticke my A4, I probably still have my RS6 wheels left, dimension: 9J x 19 ET 35 LK 5/112 with 235/35ZR19 Duni 9000 Since the TT has yes’n hole circle of 5/100, I would have to push adapter plates under the 19 inch (my knowledge from 20mm per wheel), which would mean that I would reach an ET of 15 in total … has d as someone made here already, or a comparable wheel/tire combination installed ? With timesn “shopped” pic … Since I also have “accidentally” a set of 18″ 9-spoke S-liners in the basement, I would also be interested in which rims you find more beautiful on a TT-R ! Greetings ralle

Hey, where do I get that kind of stand-up? Did my headlights want to disassemble anyway to latch the blink and then I could put in these stand-light rings. They are at least bluish fitting to the xenon and not so cheap yellow…

So, today it was time! As already on Friday on the EMS with Mr. Wimmer agreed, I made my way to Solingen. On site was made an extensive test drive and all possible values determined. Was everything in the green area. A few hoses were changed, among other things also the intake hose. Then the STG was removed and optimized on my car. The application can be seen. approx. 260 hp and approx. 360 NM ! Overboost 1.3 bar and held 1.2 ! I The 3rd gear pulls now like the 2 !!!! In the 6th gear at 200 km/h the car pushes so much that it can not drive the grin out of my face anymore… At Vmax he runs with me in the 6 gear into the red area ! And that even very fast, without a hole ! He would probably run so in the limiter … The whole thing took about 3 hours at Wimmer. The people are there se You’re nice. Can highly recommend this place to you!

Hi guys, … I posted here recently that I want to get away from my “combi image” …. Roadster is the magic word ! Since I actually wear an “audi glasses”, in principle only the TT-R came into question (in case of an emergency also’n Cabby) … but now, after a more accurate price and market analysis I am not so sure anymore. I got a brochure yesterday (with CD incl. absolutely fat sound files) from the new Nissan 350Z-Roadster (had I requested in the net) and must admit that i I’m excited about the price-performance ratio … apart from the hammer-hard sound of the Z … since I have acquaintances with Renault (Nissan and Renault belong now somehow together) I would get an almost fully equipped Z at the price of a well-expanded 180 TT-R …. ok, appearance, haptic etc. of the TT-R are unbeatable (there it is again … the Audi glasses ) … but really shitty looks the Z doesn’t exactly … and then the sound …. and the snug 280 horses, Sucked out of a 3.5l V6 …. ???? Sach’t ma what about it ! Greetings ralle