Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello, I bought a GPZ 1000 RX Bj. 1987 with 52tkm. It stood for 8 years and was switched off due to ignition problems. The problem: If the ignition is switched on, 12V onboard voltage should be on the inputs of the two ignition coils. But it is not. With one ignition coil there are 11.3 volts on and with the other 0.1 volts. Here is a list of what I have already done, but did not help: – other used CDI built in (but still 11.3 and 0.1 volts on the coils) – with The key in the ignition lock is waved around (no change) – Kill switch checked (with OFF the voltage on the coils drops to 0 volts, i.e. is i.o.) – Side stand switch (lamp in the cockpit goes on when the stand is folded out. Switches also measured with Ohmmeter. Is therefore measured – clutch switch – also works. – all fuses visually checked and additionally measured with Ohmmeter. All are measured – the three diodes in the fuse box. All i.o. – the Kab el measured from the CDI to the two ignition coils. All have 1.0 -1.5 ohms. So also i.o. – wobbled on all cables and the main wiring harness. No change. – checked all plug connections. Without success. – neutral switch checked. Lamp in the cockpit goes on at inserted idle. So i.o. – in the fuse skate are three relays (blinker, starter and main relays). The main relay is warm with switched on ignition. Starter and main relays measured. Both show the same value. e an. So I don’t know what else to do ? Maybe both CDIs are defective or they are both OK. Unfortunately, you can’t measure the CDIs with a normal multimeter. I still noticed that when the ignition is switched on, there is no voltage on the fuses in the fuse box. But horn, light and starter work. Is there only voltage when the motor is running ? The voltages of 11.3 volts and 0.1 volts on the ignition coils are a big mystery. usually 12 – 12.5 volts. Does anyone have an idea ? I can’t remember anything anymore ! Thank you and nice greeting, 2taktpower

Hello, I’m currently in a big conversion project of my Kawasaki Z 550 Gt (Bj. 88) and wanted to ask a few questions about my air filter box. On the one hand, the optics of the air filter system and the size disturbs me because it occupies relatively much space. Since mushrooms and any kind of open air filter are not allowed, or are connected with expensive DB measurements, I wanted to ask if and to what extent it is allowed me to change or construct my air filter myself oh If I put the air filter in a smaller box, which I attach directly under the seat and from which 4 large hoses would run up to the carburetors, would that be allowed or harmful to the engine? What else would I have for possibilities to empty the room behind my carburetors, how did you do it – if you did it? I would thank you already in advance!

Hi, I’m on vacation right now and I need your help. Before the holiday I was still with a Kawasaki dealer, with whom I have always had good experiences and chat with him about the expected mileage of the chain, as I will drive about 3000km during this holiday. According to him, the chain should survive this. Now I am back from today’s tour and the chain was very loose and let itself stand out clearly from the rear chain wheel. The chain still clacks and can still be removed from the chain wheel, although it is already quite tight. Now to my question, since I have only planned a tour for tomorrow (Sunday) and Tuesday, I wonder if I can still drive the approx. 600km without risking a crack of the chain. A change on holiday makes little sense, since I could get a new chain on Monday (if this would be in stock). Already in advance many thanks for the for your help!! Greetings Philip

Hello, I bought the Hurric Pro 2 exhaust for my Kawasaki Z750 R and installed it myself. Since the installation I have problems with the gas train. As soon as I give too much gas (almost full gas ) and from a turn of 6000/min the gas train flies away. As if I did not get any gas at all. However, if I turn slowly up to over 6000 I can drive relatively normal. Had also the error code F1, but only if I take out the DB Killer. Can you help me further? Here is the link from the exhaust http://www.ebay.de/itm/381499486967?… LG Matthias

Hello, I’ve bought a LTD 450 BJ 86. It’s absolutely original, so 27 HP. How does it get rid of it? (in the letter there’s nothing of your throttle set) How fast should it run with 27 HP and how quickly throttled? I have no idea if it may have already been throttled. What do I have to do to get the throttle down to Tüv? Thank you for your help! Greetings, Olaf

Hello together, had the Kawa Z800 in mind for a long time and have now borrowed the moped from the Kawa dealer around the corner this week, so today until Friday. Since I have not driven for eternities (8 years) I took last week for safety 2 driving hours to refresh, which turned out to be useful. The driving school moped was a Kawa ER6N, which was really borderline with my size of 1.92 (exactly it was too small). The Z is a sup he nice bike, for me everything was right after the start, very agile, much easier to drive than the ER6N and especially with my size ne super sitting position (since I have never been on a tourer, the sitting position is probably a matter of opinion, compared to the ER6N however much better) Well, what I really want to go out on. Due to my small to not at all existing driving practice (and the excess of 1000 Euro 😛 ) I drive very leisurely especially in curves seafar. Roundabout in the 2nd gear almost without gas. Feel generally insecure in curves and am at the moment very careful, I also trust the machine not so completely, so I think “I’m slipping away from my ass” (although I have hardly any angle), the other road users think behind me probably rather “why does it creep that way”. How was it with you so in the beginning times, just as uncomfortable in curves? Furthermore, I think that I am quite ocher sit on it, but again and again this must fall asleep at my little finger on the right hand, because I have the handlebar quite “solid claw” Any tips, suggestions etc? Would I be happy to hear from your beginnings Mfg Marcel

Hello you, as I have already written in the oldie department, I would like to renovate my faithful Z 440 core. I already have the workshop manual in parts and a little basic knowledge. I hope for your help where the two things are not enough and come with two more or less stupid questions. On the one hand I am looking for a new seal for the starter cover, but can not find one in the whole WWW, only whole lid with seal. Does anyone have a tip where I can get the seal only – or should I go the easiest way and use sealants? My seal is definitely over, stone hard and also torn in several places, in one place completely through. Image I attach. The second thing I’m concerned about is a small plastic tube (I think to have found out through internet contributions that this should be my crankshaft ventilation, but let me be taught a better one), which lay loose in the air filter box and is too short to have it I also attach a picture to it. As I suspect that the tube should pass through the airflow, but it is too short to do so, here my consideration: extend one end with a suitable hose and then put the whole thing together – is this a good idea, do I not need that anyway or do I even lack a part, which still has to come to the tube? I already thank you in advance and Have a nice week.

Hi guys! I have a problem with the electronics of my EN500A. And it doesn’t start after long standing. I’ve already done the following: I changed the battery and bridged it on a car. So it should have enough power. I’ve already changed the starter relay and the relay for the starter circuit. When the starter button is activated, the relay ratters for the starter circuit. However, no signal seems to be between the two relays. ommen. I connected the starter directly to the battery and it rotates. I short-circuited the starter relay at the connections for the relay for the starter circuit. Then the starter also rotates. The main fuse is also ok. I just don’t know how to check or measure at which point in the Junction box or on the cables of the faults. The cables from the JB go in one strand to the handlebar and are not visible without cutting it. I möc hte likes to measure, but I don’t know where voltage has to be when the start button is pressed. The fuses are all okay. And since the relay for the starter circuit is clacking, that means for me that the circuit with ignition lock, on/off switch, start button etc is okay, right? That would mean that it can only be due to the connection between the two relays, or am I wrong? I’m so slow to be really perplexed and happy about every answer! Maybe there is j and an idea. Greetings, Oli

Hello dear motor talker I’m new here and would like to introduce myself briefly. I like to come from the Eifel and Basltle on motorcycles quads which now becomes my problem!!! I started a quad conversion engine from a Kawa el 250 installed connected the wire harness Various parts renewed such as e.g. oil pressure sensor, alarm relays,nozzles,nozzles O rings carburettor several times ultrasonic cleaned+basic setting, carburettor flange new, oil change with filter, new spark plugs side stand bridged De r engine has ignition, bangs from exhaust misignition and from carburetor it also pats, candles are wet so fuel comes But the engine doesn’t make any signs that it wants to jump on I’m about to despair what could be the problem is really stunned. Have already had another CDI and ignition coils to test on it but always the same problem Hope someone can give me a tip say already thanks for the answers Greetings Eifelyeti39

Huhu I’m just asking stupid questions I’ve had a Gpz550 UT Bj.86 (three-spoken wheels) come in.The condition is more than pathetic, it is largely unbasked, but it was only provisionally covered outside and got about ten times nice the four seasons. I probably saved it from the scrap press or Africa trip. Will it soon completely disassemble.Before I say here clearly that it is clear to me that one such old sweetheart after such a long time And of course it can be on the plugs as well as cables corrosions etc. everything is clear. Still wanted to see if she gives at least one life sign, so sometimes a charged battery hung on it and… nothing Then I looked for fuses (the GPZ electrics etc, is new to me) Once in the fuse box two glass fuses both heal. Then the yellow flat fuse also heals, and then in this tube to turn believe the main fuse(?) also heals. (Photo 1. below) Is there more hidden that I have seen?? I noticed further, in the security box of this blackäämm “cube” for what is it?? There are two contacts, one is completely rusted through (Photo 2.) And what is this cable that comes from the fuse box (GELB/SCHWArz) that is nowhere connected, but also did not find a “counter piece”. Then came to me a red Lüsterclamp e I don’t know yet if someone here had something to do, as I said, everything looks original and unbasked as far as I’ve seen others. I thank you for tips and the effort to help.