Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello guys, wanted to hear your opinion about the 07 models, more precisely about the new Z750 + Z1000 models. I think you are more questionable optically… In terms of engine technology you should be new developments, with significantly more rotary monet in the middle speed range, which unfortunately happened in favor of the peak performance. The new models have about 3 HP less, as far as I could get from motorcycle magazines. I personally would have expected more! A strong Z750 with 130 hp sowi e a Z1000 with 150 hp at the old price or slightly higher price would have been really great. Why should I exchange my Z750 Bj.04 for a Z750 Bj.07? Away 3/Nm more at 8000U/min? I would have wanted new strong engines, so the fewest will exchange your old Z for a new one. How do you see it? Would really interest me if I was the only one who thinks so. Greeting Patrick

good day I’m driving a zx6r bj.00 I’ve seen son bischen at ebay and there’s a lot of me on a bike, the description was changed with a different translation.I know it but only from the mofa time since it’s been a long time and man now drives in other ps and speed ranges I would like to hear if you have had experiences with it or know something that makes such a change of translation smaller or larger. thank you for your emails.

So I’m new here for the first time hi Two weeks ago I crashed with my z1000 06. Among other things, the Lima lid broke against. I wanted to replace it yesterday and when trying to remove the winding of the alternator from the old lid, I slipped with the screwdriver and turned over the head with a screw. The screw is still bomb-proof. How can I get it out now without damaging the winding? MfG

Hello together. I bought the repair manual for my machine is not bad and very well explained.I had to find out when scrolling through that you need a lot of tools if you want to be something and you want to make it ale.Now use a few tips where you can get good but also not very expensive tools!And maybe what you need as a basic equipment first of all or if there are certain brands to pay attention to. Greetings to all!!!!

Hello, I would like to buy a ZX9, had already looked at a 2000 it and now they advised me not to buy one of Model 2000 or 2001, because the fork is supposed to flutter, with the model 2002 it should not be like that any more, right? Now I found one with EZ 02/2002 in gray. But it could also be the model 01. Can you determine it by the color? A buddy claims the gray was built only in 2001. How can I recognize it? I hope you can Help me here. LG Tattus

Hello Kawagemeinde, spring comes a bit closer day after day and thus also the motorcycle season again. I would like to miss my ninja before the first exit new engine oil and accordingly a new oil filter. I made a little bit of a smart about the SuFu and would like to buy me a 20W40 or 20W50 oil, mineral. My driving style: I drive exclusively at warm temperatures and then at least an hour unentered. So hardly a short distance. I am never on the race I can’t tell you what kind of oil I currently have in it. My Ninja has about 32,000 km on the speedometer and currently consumes 0.5 – 1 liter of oil at about 6,000 km. What would you recommend to me in concrete terms? A 20W40 oil or more than 20W50. I think mineral is best (because of the clutch). Is that correct? I would like to change oil for the future before every new motorcycle season. e Driving performance per season: 4000-7000 km. Can you recommend me a specific oil supplier, for example Castrol, Shell etc.? My last question: Where do you buy your motorcycle oil? I hope I can find confirmation here regarding my oil choice (20W40 or 20W50) and perhaps one or other specific tip for the oil brand. MfG Mathias

Yesterday it was time, at 8 p.m. I bought my first own mopped. At 2 o’clock in the morning we were back home and I was able to get the bike off the trailer. I am sometimes so lucky to finally have a mopped. And I really like my ER-5! I make other mirrors, new tires (tacho lighting I build tomorrow on LEDs ) and possibly even other indicators on it. And then it can start soon. Unfortunately I have to wait until 03.05.07 until m a driver’s license is no longer limited. As long as I still have to drive with my golf…. *borrow* I paid 1050€, Stahlflex already has the maschiene at the front of the brakes, mileage 38000km and year of construction is 1997… Otherwise any tips from the experienced bikers here on the board? Is my first bike still not so familiar with motorcycles… Here are some pictures of the bike:

Hello, my feather leg is oily on the underside and does not keep the air pressure any more. So probably defective. Have a GPX 600 R / ZX600C / year of construction 1996. Search now a new/used (if needed, then in perfect condition). Saublöde ask, since I had never had to do with it. How can I get out the dimensions of the spring leg? Or who knows it and can post it here? How do you extend the spring leg yourself or should you rather have it done in a workshop? Which feather legs do you have or can you recommend to me? Which addresses do you recommend to me? The price should be about 300 € maximum! Thanks already in advance. Micha

Hello together! I’m new here and need help! I recently bought a Kawa and now have the problem that she only starts badly with choke and then runs on about 5000 tours (doesn’t take up to no gas at all). She also has false ignitions as if she is too lean or with the ignition what’s wrong. If you take out the choke then die of the motor, (speed can only be regulated a little over the choke).If you “underruled” her she runs very restless (like a 2 cylinder) u nd “rapelt und klappert” Have already looked around here in the forum and have cleaned the carburetor for K.wasser in sprit, carburetor mixed screws on factory setting (2.0 revolutions out) cleaned candles (have very white combustion image), ignition cable and plug checked (3 are new) Can anyone help me? PLEASE !?!

Meal, today wanted to measure the valve play of my GPZ, made everything happen and then I wanted to put the crankshaft on T14.1. Problem…which notch is correct? (see picture) I took the one with the green mark….unfortunately I had to find out that not valve 1+4 and (after a 1/2 rotation of the crankshaft on the opposite notch) 2+3 are relaxed at the same time but 1+3 and 2+4.. According to my documents I should measure inlet/outlet 1+4 or inlet/outlet 2+3. but this consolidation was not possible since one of the two was neither measurable, because either a cam pressed the valve or because the cam was right in front of it…=measured impossible… I then measured 1+3 and 2+4, as it looked like they were always relaxed at the same time…have the following values (to be 0,08-0,18mm) outlet 1= 0,15mm outlet 2= 0,12mm outlet 3= less than 0,04mm outlet 4= 0,25mm inlet 1= 0,10mm inlet 2= 0,17mm inlet 3= less than 0,04mm inlet 4= we Niger than 0.04mm seem the values plausible?? Does me worry a bit if 3 valves are very tight!! Have valves only measured because the engine is a little cloded, but if only one valve is too loose, then this is rather improbable as a cause of error or??? MFG Schueddi