Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello guys, so now I finally got my mopped, ne ER 5 Twister Bj 2000 with approx. 12 000km. I drive my whole mobile subsets normally “warm” i.e. with my golf e.g. no further like 2500 revolutions/minute (limiter at 6200 revolutions/minute) in the “cold state” (if engine has not yet reached operating temperature) Since I want to treat my Twister gently, it wants to get as long as possible now I have the following question: How long should I e i mean ER 5 basically “warm driving” (thought about 10 – 15 minutes????) Up to what speed range should I turn it in the “cold” state maximum? The red range starts at 10,000 revolutions, did it turn today in the “cold” state up to about 6 000, was that too extreme?? Thanks for your answers Lg Sam

Hello guys, I have a problem at home. Our Kawa stands with engine damage in the garage, now for almost a year and so far nobody dared to tackle the topic. The damage concerns the spark plug in the third pot. It has defused all the threads when starting with a proper bang. Now the question is: New cylinder head or engine? Is just too expensive and also very rare. So I want to take this thing apart this summer and drill out its use. Ask to you: Has someone with such an action already had experience? Are there certain criteria that I have to observe during the installation and installation? Or do you have any other ideas or suggestions for my small big problem?? The fact is: The lady is not sold. Thanks already in advance.

hello, have to make my own oil change (well oil drips out just until tomorrow evening). so now no question about the oil. which should I use? was today at the POLO shop which picked out the following:http://www.polo-motorrad.de/…/Productdetail.productdetails.0.html Racing Dynamic Viscoil 10W-40 High-quality light running oil. specially adapted to the demands of high-turning motorcycle engines. Reduces friction for optimal engine performance, offers optimal wear protection. API CE/SG. Order no. 55010100020 should be a mineral. I’m only a little skeptical because it cost only 23 euro. can I use the oil without thinking? greetings

Hello, I have the following problem with my GPZ. After a longer service life (about 1 year) I wanted to make my motorcycle fit again. The first start attempt also went quite successfully, engine started running but a bit unrounded. 🙂 Misfires etc., when I then noticed that petrol from the carburetors ran out I called my workshop and they picked up the motorcycle then. Carburetor was cleaned etc, new spark plugs, TÜV new BUT it didn’t run right! After the carburettor 3X has been removed and cleaned and the part still does not work (400 EUR paid 🙁 ) you have measured the compression: 1. Cylinder: 5 bar 2. Cylinder: 10.5 bar 3. Cylinder: 7-8 bar 4. Cylinder: 10.5 bar A repair should cost so 800 – 1000 EUR, so it is necessary to make it yourself… Do you have any idea what this can be? I assume either from defective valves or piston rings… 🙁 ==> I get this with Help of the workshop manual itself? (Hab mir schon bei EBAY ein cylinder, neue Piston und cylinderkopf erfält… 🙂 ) MfG Andreas

Hi, I would like to re-adjust my spring leg (GPZ600, ’89) at the moment. With which settings do the adjustment possibilities by air pressure / damping correlate?. Don’t find a clever description. Can you recommend settings? I weigh about 70kg and would say I’m driving “quiet” road operation, no runway (but like to take tips in which direction I would have to change here. Currently my damping is on 2, the air pressure at 1.5bar. My problem is that the driving wee rk likes to rock up a bit with several waves, which should disappear if possible. Thanks in advance (and PS: I can cook) Greeting Max

Moin municipality! I have come over three corners to a well-preserved GPZ600R from 85. Looks good, is maintained and runs well. Would just like to do some things but without rep instructions it is very difficult because everything is a little more compact. Also technical data is not easy to obtain. Which would be: tank content? air pressure in the chassis? cooling water, where drain and vent? What is the slider with the numbers 1-4 under the left side panel? Can someone help there? Didn’t have The manual and the repbooks are no longer available! :-((( Thank you! Greeting Gerri

Hello Kawasaki Forum, as a newcomer in the forum I need your help, because my Z750 Sport, Bj 84 (KZ750E-L4) is not running properly. I have installed new spark plugs, new intake nozzles and air filter rubbers. The air filter was also changed. On this occasion I completely disassembled the carburettors (Mikuni 34), cleaned in the ultrasonic bath and provided with new o-ring seals and float needles – the carburettor was already resinated by the service life. I did not adjust the synchronisation screws of the carburettors. The membranes of the sliders are fine. Had also removed the idle screws (top of the carburettors). I turned them out with 5 half revolutions from maximum screw-in. Symptoms: Kawa runs well in idle – I don’t need to pull the joke out to the second position at all. As soon as I give more gas the engine starts to stutter a I can’t drive it anymore – I can’t take any more power. Had already noticed that the air hose, which goes from the 3rd carburetor into the air filter box, has a small metal nozzle in it. What function does it have? Does it equal the vacuum in the carburetors? I had mistakenly replaced this air hose with another (without a metal nozzle) with the effect that the moped nu r ran on three cylinders. Now the original hose is on and I have the phenomenon described above. Can someone help me further what it might be. Also in the workshop manual I found no information about the adjustment of the idle screws. I suspect that the adjustment of the idle screws does not fit. Could it also lie on the ignition coils? I had disconnected it and removed it. Furthermore, I still fell for the rev meter to “jump”, although the engine rotation As a hobby screwdriver, say thank you for your tips.

Did you happen to know someone was driving the Ninja 250R…?

Hello So carburettor cleaned, I hope anyway. Built in and off, it has already jumped on. But, runs only on the right cylinder? Left cylinder has sparks of ignition and pistons moves. Can it be that the thing on the left gets no fuel? Or did I possibly switch something at the ignition coil? Carburettor removed, again blown through with comp. some rust at the top adjustment screws over the throttle flaps (mixed screw or?) and noticed overhungs. nbauten – Einbau-> ohne Erfolg! Needed a rough basic setting for you carburetor. And a tip why only the right run–> can be only on the carburetor,or. And something else. Who has ever installed the starter rep set? Do you need special tools? Can someone give me a short guide how to do this. So many questions. Thanks to all those who help me. Robert

Hello guys, does someone happen to know each other with rust converters ? Yesterday I wanted to pass my exhaust collectors a little bit before winter, that they don’t even gag through, and the following problem occurred: I still had an ancient Buddel rust converter (Duplicolor), and of the stuff (white milky porridge, smells of wood glue) red rust is converted into something gray-black, which is completely passive and does not rust, always worked well. so fly bought a new one (Presto, probably bought Duplicolor), the porridge looked exactly the same, but was strongly diluted and smelled like the sweet plague after some solvent unknown to me. This new lubricator peed on a test plate with flying rust, also funtioned, the rust becomes black-blue, whether it remains stable, but I don’t know yet. Well and then the Presto stuff on my strong-rusty orange-red collector (I think there’s the cat in it??) pinned, result at the next The first day: The collector was still brighter-red, so somehow the chemical made the rust even rustier, so nothing reduced but further oxidized. Then the last remnants from the old buddle scratched, smeared over it, and everything was again black-grey and in best order. Now my urgent question (the huge car exhaust screams for rust conversion…): knows a nen rust converter (brand where available), which is a white-milky porridge and smells of wood glue (e.g. ponal), the zeu g I’m looking for, Duplicolor doesn’t seem to exist any more. Everything that is so close to rust transducers, I’ve already sniffed through, I’m still very high like a hooditze, I think hydrochloric acid was also there, after the buddel I had three days of sore throat, only the half-smelling stuff that really works, I couldn’t find any more. Thanks for tips and greeting PS: Ick gloobe, because in Presto a phosphory acid confused with phosphoric acid, mm, clever, then rusty It seems to work perfectly correctly in flight rust, at least after 3 days it still looks like this. PPS: The typo asle seems to have a vacation…., should I worry now that every letter I type at once really appears like this on the screen??