Category: Kawasaki Forum

Huhu I’m just asking stupid questions I’ve had a Gpz550 UT Bj.86 (three-spoken wheels) come in.The condition is more than pathetic, it is largely unbasked, but it was only provisionally covered outside and got about ten times nice the four seasons. I probably saved it from the scrap press or Africa trip. Will it soon completely disassemble.Before I say here clearly that it is clear to me that one such old sweetheart after such a long time And of course it can be on the plugs as well as cables corrosions etc. everything is clear. Still wanted to see if she gives at least one life sign, so sometimes a charged battery hung on it and… nothing Then I looked for fuses (the GPZ electrics etc, is new to me) Once in the fuse box two glass fuses both heal. Then the yellow flat fuse also heals, and then in this tube to turn believe the main fuse(?) also heals. (Photo 1. below) Is there more hidden that I have seen?? I noticed further, in the security box of this blackäämm “cube” for what is it?? There are two contacts, one is completely rusted through (Photo 2.) And what is this cable that comes from the fuse box (GELB/SCHWArz) that is nowhere connected, but also did not find a “counter piece”. Then came to me a red Lüsterclamp e I don’t know yet if someone here had something to do, as I said, everything looks original and unbasked as far as I’ve seen others. I thank you for tips and the effort to help.

Hello, I bought an El 252 year 1997 for my wife who was not with the TÜV for two years. Test run and driving test (small private area) was fine, the only error was the switch from the side stand which was not operated. After the change of the switch works again, I started the engine about 10x. One day later I wanted to start again but the engine knocks and does not jump properly. I drive myself an LTD 450 d he had the same problem 2 years ago. CDI renewed, ran again to 100%. In the EL 252 I installed the CDI of an EL 250B, which according to the dealer is identical. Unfortunately the knocking is still there and it does not start at all. Oil and oil filter I had immediately renewed 2years ago the El was overhauled at the dealer for 960€ and prepared for the TÜV but not presented (illness of the previous owner). What can I do yet, what did I do wrong, fits the ignition unit of the EL 250 I’d be happy for tips and hints.

Hi together, I have now bought a used Er6n which I pick up on Thursday. The tires were never changed (machine built 2011, 5,200km). I am a total newcomer and therefore ask for a little indulgence for the possibly very stupid questions. Since the tires are already old I have requested today an offer for new ones. Now to my questions. 1. can I without hesitation with the old tires in nice weather over the highway home? Or generally these tires vll. still this year drive at least until August there the HU is due anyway and I assume that the examiner tells me that the tyres may not go any more (tires are not cracked and don’t actually feel brittle) 2. Can I use new tyres on the highway? Or should I rather drive home by detours? LG

Hello my name is micha, for almost 14 days have a kz 550 which stood a few years, but meanwhile runs and also got fresh tuv. a few problems we have but still where we urgently need advice from you. it does not run properly, the speed does not go over 5500 tours. we have the old carburettors with pushers, without membrane. down it runs wonderfully, also goes through vigorously. today we drove about 100 km and calculated while refueling w with a sprite consumption of 6 liters on 100km. times to the facts, what we have done so far: gasifier cleaned in the bath, all nozzles are clean. ignition plugs are always carbon black, means that they run much too fat. tank cleaned, filter made in between. ignition cable all renewed, plug not. empty running control screw(side of the carburettor) we have tried out in various positions, no change. gasifiers were only roughly synchronized. if I use the gas rotary handle sc When you open it only to about a quarter and slowly accelerate it then it goes, but as I said only 5500 turns. I have already thought of the ignition coils, which are both defective. maybe you have an idea, I am grateful for every tip. many thanks already in advance. greets micha.

Evening, for 1 week I have had a Ninja 9R Bj 1996 open. If I drive “normal”, that means neither acceleration nor braking the machine jerks as if the ignition/fuel injection is/are faulty. (The jerkers are not so serious that the machine shakes but you notice dropouts). This is especially the case at 2700-3500 rpm. But also over this speed range the error appears. Acceleration is not a problem, the acceleration process is absolutely perfect and jerky 11ei. Could this be the carburetor? The machine didn’t have long service life, I found something on Google about similar problems in connection with the RAm Air System, but the error was not as 100% described as is the case with me. There it also haped while accelerating. Chain slicing/wheel/chain are new, tense and white greased.

Hello friends, I got a Scorpion Exhausts conical yesterday for my Z800E and have been trying to mount it since then. According to the manufacturer, in contrast to the original exhaust no sealing ring and clamp is necessary I should just push the new exhaust on the counterpart on the motorcycle. Easier said than done. Since 2h I now try to push this tube on it however missing 5mm until the threads lie over each other. I have already lubricated with engine oil and tried t to heat the counterpart but without success. Have you probably made an idea or experiences that can help with further . I am already in contact with the manufacturer but that must go somehow – . – I thank in advance.

Hi guys, I have a problem with my KX 250 F bj 2004 when I start the engine and turn on the main light, then the engine goes off. The light was retrofitted like follow, there are 2 circuits, circle 1 is the ignition, so generator -> CDI -> ignition coil, this circle runs with alternating current. Circle 2 is then the light and speedo, from the generator -> rectifier -> battery 12v and from there to the light and the speedo, the circle runs with direct current. My question now is why d It’s kind of separate circles, or does the main light pass through the battery through the rectifier from the generator all the power? I’m not exactly the electrics expert

Hello dear ones, Yesterday I drove with my friend as Sozius on his ninja zx10r for the first time. Now I had a little bit of problems with the seat position or didn’t know where I should hold on to the brakes. Since I didn’t want to lean on my friend with full weight, I always supported myself at the front of the tank while braking, which, after a while, is animally on the poor. Do you have a tip? My friend said it was more pleasant for him. .. Well, besides, after a while I had severe neck pain due to the bent posture. Is this only due to the unusual posture?? Does this go away if you drive more often? Or do you have tips here? Unfortunately, as a passenger you can’t really sit upright, because you get the complete against wind. Do you have any advice. Thank you!

Hello, as in the headline to read, my Kawasaki ZX6R (with gas stop throttled to 48 HP) only turns up to approx. 8000 revolutions for about a week. If I continue to accelerate, no matter which gear or idling, then the number of revolutions drops immediately again. In cold and in warm condition. When full throttle in idle mode it usually turns up to 10k, then sets off until it is at 7k and immediately turns up again and then sprints there almost always back and forth. As if it is a air filter tested, which actually looks relatively clean. Next option is the petrol filter or the pump, but how do I recognize what works and what is broken? Smoke or similar does not come out of the exhaust, so the combustion still seems to work without problems. Thanks for tips already in advance MfG Marc

Hello Kawa-Gemeinde, My Kawasaki ZX9R rubs when braking at the front quite strongly. First I thought about the brake discs and changed them. I used high-quality accessories brake discs. Of course I also changed the brake blocks. This has not done anything. The motorcycle was then in the workshop and there the problem was also tried to solve. The front wheel rim was measured and the brake discs of course also. Then the kom plete fork removed and also tested for deformation. The steering head bearing was renewed and a new tire was mounted. All this did nothing and the rubbing during braking remained. Conclusion: Workshop unsuspecting and me also and 800€ poorer . Does anyone have an idea?