Hey, I have a little problem with my GT, hope you can help me. Have the bike only recently! A few days ago I drove with it for the first time and suddenly out of the blue it goes out (by stopping at the traffic lights). Well, it can happen, but it didn’t start again. After about 10 minutes. and a few meters to go home she ran again, but not for long. In the place she went out again simply, but this is when (easy) acceleration. Dar I checked the Vetilspiel, which also did not really fit. Yesterday city traffic, after 7 kilometers again the same game. After 15 min. she jumped again unheard of. I also looked at the candles, but they look completely normal, are also the standard candles DR 8… Now the question is what it’s like!? Whether the engine got hot or not can’t say badly. I hope you can help me!!!? Thanks in advance in greeting Kevin
Category: Kawasaki Forum
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Skipping the control chain, resetting tax times, now it’s starting badly.
Good morning Kawasaki friends, I made a big mistake. Had the control chain tensioner out (it is about a single cylinder with 650 cc KLX 650 R) to see how far it has moved out. He was not far out, I thought to myself with the hand quite carefully I press a short way on the kick starter around the chain easy to forward when I put the chain tensioner back in. That was a big mistake!!! I know now ! The chain has skipped! I have a workshop ha ndbuch got (unfortunately only in English) and dismantled everything and opened the valve cover. Never done such a job before. The first time quasi. The steering times did not fit at the front and back any more. I unscrewed the camshafts and put the markings EX and IN on escape with the cylinder head (all with built-in chain) It fits everything ! T marking at the bottom of the crankshaft as well as EX and IN marking. Everything is assembled again! First test vehicle runs but jump t really bad. Somehow she felt more compression than before when I kick the kicker. And I have to step on it endlessly long until you start. Before 2-3 times kicking she was there. If she is running she also has great performance! Maybe someone can tell me here why she is starting so bad now? Thanks in advance for your answers Greeting Alex
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Exchange Simmering
Hello to everyone, apparently the Simmering licks at the fork of my Kawa. GPX 600 R, Built 97! Does anyone have experience with the costs?
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Clean Chain
Hello, after the tip now here in the forum I decided for a “17-44-112 DID530ZVM-X(G&G) Niet”. Dry Lub is used as a lubricant. As far as possible. Before Dry Lub can be applied, the chain has to be cleaned, i.e. fat-free. If you are looking for “O-Ring or X-Ring chains clean” you will quickly find out that everyone tells something else. My personal favorite would be a small tub with washing spirit, chain pure, clean with bristle brush, half stun Let it dry – done. It is however to read the gasoline attacks the seals. What does this look like with washing gasoline? Shouldn’t washing gasoline be the right one, what does it look like with chain cleaner? Is there a product recommendation here? Thank you for your effort.
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Fighting rust permanently
Hello together, please move if I don’t post in the right area. I’ve been researching for a while, but unfortunately don’t get really smart about the matter because there are a lot of different opinions on the topic. It’s about my Kawa ER-5 at which a few rust spots (crackers, shock absorbers, rear wheel swing, frame, ( tank bottom but without picture) ) are to be fought now over the winter. My question would be now how best to deal with the matter. Sandblasting or other things would probably not be worthwhile for me, however, because I want to do it myself. The following refers to the rust points on the damper suspension on the frame. First mechanically grind down with wire brushes and sandpaper to the bare metal. Then brush with phosphoric acid (alternative to a rust converter such as fertan?) Then zinc spray or primer? Finally paint with paint and clear varnish at the end? Doing so? Would like to eliminate the subject of rust at the places in the long term.. Add a few more pictures.. Thanks already for your tips! Greetings, Maro
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Kawasaki KZ 250 G LTD goes out when it is warm
Hello, I bought a Z 250 G LDT with 53tkm and 7 years of service life a few weeks ago. Made : – oil change/filter change – clutch pull new – battery new – valves set – carburettor cleaned – ZK New, old had wrong thermal value Although it starts with Choke, then runs relatively calmly in the stationary gas and can also drive until the engine is warm (if it runs warm in the stationary gas, or at 10 min drive with about 30-50 kmH). (1500rpm) runs, just goes out and can’t be started for 10-20 min. The spark plug is worn but not wet… Greetings
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Motor turns up briefly, but doesn’t translate the power to the tires – clutch?
Hello to each other, I noticed yesterday during an extensive ride on the highway that with my Z1000 in the 6th gear something incomprehensible happens to me. At about 8-9 thousand revolutions and quite strong acceleration, it turned up, but did not transmit power, I did not get faster for a fraction of a second. I tried the whole one-two times and it was always the same, only in the 6th gear at 8-9 thousand revolutions. In other gears passed Not that. For me, that sounds like a slippery clutch, but my machine just ran 4 years young and 10,000km… Can that be that after the mileage the clutch is already over, or can that have another reason? Hope someone can help me here, also have a few months warranty on the Kawa. PS: I treat the machine as if it were my own child, if someone should think that.
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Engine does not jump to fuel pump buzzes not
Hello dear Kawasaki friends, I have a problem with my Z750 2006. She just doesn’t want to start any more and you don’t get any more buzzing when I start the ignition. Short history. She’s been out more recently during the ride, too. And without any problems again. Now I’ve taught my neighbor to drive on a private property and of course he strangled the machine more often. After 15 min he had the shoot out and I was on the home eg. I drove about 5km then she went out and not to me any more. We tried to bridge unfortunately did not work. Couple of hours later the Kawa was back in the garage – was towed off. I jammed the battery and charged. Side stand checked for passage But unfortunately the machine does not start. Starter turns. If you had there some tips for me I would be very grateful to you
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Kawasaki VN 15 C1 footrest problem
Hello people I’m new here and don’t know if this fits in here ?? otherwise just say And I bought a Kawasaki VN 15 C1 Bobber conversion and am still at the end of this project?? Now I have the following problem that the footrests are too far in front I am about 1.79 m tall and don’t get there right now! ???? Vlt are also just my feet too short Do you vlt pictures of your footrests or of the original ones??? Unfortunately still knows how I could mount them now Thanks in advance LG Wolfi .
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Correct operation of the Quickshifter and the Blipper at the 1000sx / inspection costs
1. Can someone tell me how to operate the Quickshifters and the Blipper correctly with a Kawa 1000sx? Do you have to be on the gas when switching up before pulling the shift lever? Do you have to be away from the gas when switching down before pressing the shift lever? Or does it all matter? 2. What are the inspection costs of the initial inspection (I think 1800km) and the costs for the 12,000 inspection?