Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello together, I bought myself a chic ZX900B BJ 1997 which I am currently making fit. I also overtake the fork and encountered the following problem: Kawasaki says in the repair instruction that a SAE 5 ÖL is recommended. Since I intend to move the motorcycle rather sporty I consider instead to use a SAE 10. On the other hand, the Ninja is already sporty from the house and I worry that the 10W oil is then too much of the good. Therefore now my question: How would you you judge the driving behavior of the ZX900B (or the smaller relatives from the series; fork will be basically the same) ? Does a change to SAE10 ÖL make sense or should I rather stay at the 5s ? SUFU has spat out a few general threads on the topic of oiling the fork, according to which such a thing is basically not wrong. Before I do this I would like to listen to the assessment of people who own the motorcycle and know Thank you already for the Antw location^^

Moin municipality, I need your advice. short introduction: Kai from the vicinity of Aschaffenburg , 35, and in 3 days proud owner of an interesting project: A Kawa GPZ 600 R from ’86, ~65,000km ran, which for 16 years was no longer moved (decommissioning 2009). I would like to use it as a basis for a new setup or conversion, however, am not at all Kawasaki experienced. What technical preliminary tests (turns the engine, switches the gear, etc.) would you recommend here. What can/should I check/test everything in advance? Should there be an engine revision, what is there to consider here – does the GPZ have any technical features? What do I have to pay special attention to here? The Antidive system on the front fork, is there a ‘repair requirement’ here? Many questions – best of all simply ‘free muzzle’ who comes up with something – if necessary the one or other GPZ experienced screwdriver is there 🙂 Thanks already times and best regards! PS: Who still a workshop handbu ch has, may you come in ??

Hi, I have a Kawasaki Z750R ABS built in 2011 and would like to replace the original exhaust with a SC Project GP M2. When expanding the original exhaust, I noticed two rope hoists (gabbles) that are probably part of the flap control. My new exhaust has no flap control, and now I’m not sure what to do with the rope hoists: 1. Can I just remove them or have to stay them? 2. If they are removed, is there an error message? 3. Do I need to install a servo eliminator or any other solution to avoid problems with the electronics? Does anyone have experience with the topic and can help me? Thank you in advance!

Hello everybody, I’m new here and hope you can help me as a layman. I’ve been having the following problem for a short time now. If the bike (Kawasaki Z750 EZ. 1.2.2007) is warm, it doesn’t really take the gas at the low speeds. I have to give gas when starting, because it otherwise runs out. I also noticed, when I switch down and take gas away (speeds fall) the lady bangs out quite bad ignitions – I never had that before! ben that I am here Laie but fortunately can count on the support of my father who has been riding bike for decades. However, I did not want to “start somewhere” now and thought that vllt. someone can help with tips & advice or even the same/similar error picture. I am grateful about every serious tip/ advice! Thank you and dear greetings, Nico

Hello dear Kawa friends, I have the following problem I bought a ZXR400 1997 with broken wire harness, after that I have replaced it completely and now works everything, well at least almost. She orgs and does and does BUT there is no spark of ignition out of the box. I have already installed new coils new ignition cables new candles… But still nothing works. I recently finished my A2 light and now the season is over for me before it starts I hope I finally find someone here who can help me since I am already 3 months at the rumtest… With kind regards Maurice

Hello dear forum! I started to build a GPz750 ut of 88 last summer. so far so good… But I’ve been fighting with the Mikuni BS34 carburetor for months. I try to make it short: It doesn’t always run on all cylinders, runs round and then the speed from the idle goes up miserable until I turn it off. Sounds like wrong air for now. Sometimes if it only runs round but in idle and you give gas, it also turns on its own higher or only goes very fast. The sliders never go up. Here a few infos Ignition spark everywhere Compression everywhere 10bar carburettor meanwhile 4 times ultrasonic cleaned, all nozzles and needles new. On the type of a known one I then even renewed the sealing rings of the throttle valve shaft and sealed the choke pistons all with additional sealing rings. Everything has standard size according to the workshop book for the Mikuni. Mixing screw I had 2 revolutions. Seen out as a basic setting online. Membrane is all ok. The suction sockets (now the third new one, because constantly become too soft) are screwed to the head with Hylomar. The carburettor is actually quite firmly inside. False air sample with brake cleaner does not result. I also connected a fog machine but found no leak. And yet… The speed changes just as drastically when I use the air filter. Is it on the filter? Does anyone have any idea?? I’m going to be crazy thanks in advance!!

I haven’t driven a motorcycle in years. That’s why I’m not here today. A few days ago someone passed me with a fake license plate (according to the police) and boxed on my car. Most likely Duisburger. What happened was in Moers Can someone identify the motorcycle? I would have typed on Kawasaki. I’m not sure with the model or with the brand. PS: If you see this better stay away ??

Hello everybody, I wanted to check if you can already find out from these pictures if the tyres are over or if you can drive them at least one season. The tyres can not be older than 6 months and have not been claimed more than 4800km (since the motorcycle is so old and has driven so much as a new car according to the advertisement). Are these also good tyres from the quality? I can unfortunately only read out DUNLOP Roadsport 2 if that helps. Thank you many times for the help! Additional question: Is the (flight)Rost normal on a 6 month old bike or is there something enormously wrong? I don’t know about motorcycles and don’t know how they behave in the weather outside.

Good morning Together, I enjoyed a VN1600 Classic Tourer 2006 on the weekend. When driving home, I noticed that the reserve LED was working at about 180km (after full tank and about 120-140 km/h home trip)… After about 195km the machine acted as if almost no fuel was in me, but could still make it to the next gas station. At the gas station I then got about 15 liters in and the tank indicator showed me 4 out of 5 strokes. Just after I left, e The bike was refueled when it was standing vertically. Does anyone have any experience with this? According to the internet, you should get to the 300km with the machine (variate of course, how much luggage, people, etc.), but already at almost 200km in reserver without luggage and then only 15 liters can fill up is funny. Thank you in advance for the feedback.

Tach too, I found this forum only recently and was thrilled. Finally, where you can pull out something for his Zx7R. I also have these problems with vibrating at 4500 rpm. But something else. Maybe someone can tell me something about it. I have a used ZX7R, black with 95kw. Daer dealer (no KAWA dealer) said that the machine would be a re-import and therefore the color black and the exhaust a little louder than that of the a Is that true or did the type cheese tell me. Must then say that I had the machine examined before buying from an independent third party and there was nothing at all about it. Is that right that the black color was not on the market in Germany ?? I hope jemdan can light up a light. Otherwise this is really a great car. Greeting Gampa !