Hello Forum municipality I have recently opened a topic about the experiences with a Kawasaki zzr-1200. There someone mentioned in this model the Pitting on the camshafts. In a Kawasaki forum I read that a lot of zzr 1200s are affected. Logically I immediately called my mechanic and wanted to know his opinion about it. He told me that in Germany most motorcycles are throttled (under 100 HP) and this at all not the same No. (By the way, I forgot to mention that I am Swiss 🙂 ) The Swiss motorcycles are not affected by this. Is this statement correct or do I have to worry about this “pitting” on my motorcycle? My motorcycle now has a mileage of about 15,000 km and the valves were tested with 12,000 kilometers but not adjusted. Would you advise me to go to the mechanic immediately or if this is enough if I mention this with the “pitting at the camshafts” at the next setting of the valves? I am grateful for your information. Many greetings from Switzerland
Category: Kawasaki Forum
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Repair manual Z 750 GT / Z750-P
Good morning dear motorcycle community, I had searched the internet for a repair instruction and ordered one with the number 5036 for the GT 750 from ’80. Unfortunately I still don’t know how to build the rear wheel, because in this instruction only models with chain, but not with Kardan are listed. Does anyone have an idea where I can get this information? Workshop manuals should be available on the internet, but I have found nothing there yet. LG. Benni
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Paint frame, powder coating or better foliing?
Servus people, I’m new here, so forgive me if I post in the wrong area I bought a Kawa KLX 650 c BJ. 93 as supermotoum. The cladding parts are black, but it has this mint green seat and above all mint green frame, which I just don’t like… The most professional solution would probably be to paint the frame. I’m only a moderately gifted screwdriver, so if it somehow would be reluctant to expand the engine So the following questions arise: 1. Only paint the visible areas of the frame? I would only remove the engine from the panels, brake & gear lever etc.. Would then lay between frame and motor newspaper and stick off the remaining parts. 2.Evtl. the same work only with spray foil, because I think that I will get better between frame and motor with it, or if it just sucks I can pull it off without any problems. Only the question, the foil resolves itself if I only spray the outside of the frame and not completely around it? 3. I trust that the frame will be decorated with foil. I trust that even though I think it will be a lot of work. Here just just foil the visible parts, and glue the foil on the invisible back and cut it off. As I said, in order to do it really professionally, I would have to disassemble the complete motorcycle, which I simply don’t trust. Do you have experiences or tips? How would you do it? Thank you, Dennis.
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He6n corridors sometimes don’t go in
Servus, I have a problem with my Er6n, which I have been driving for a good 3 weeks now. It often happens now that 3, 4 or 5 gears don’t go in immediately. I speed up, whether strong or leisurely makes no difference, and when I turn up I pull the gear lever up but the previous gear stays in it. This happens at least once per ride. Meanwhile I am so sensitive that I notice when the quiet “crack” is missing and the gear is not in it. I have a in a few times with not very little gas in the previous gear. If the problem occurs I can pull the lever up to the stop without the gear going in. then I let it go without coupling it in and then it works for the second time mostly. Does someone have similar problems? Can’t it be that on an 8 years/23000 km old motorcycle the gear is already hackier than on a Samson from the 70s. Umfaller had it according to the previous owner and after I’m still a driver. Do I pull the lever up too fast or too slowly? That’s why I didn’t notice it during the test drive. And that was quite extensive with 50km. I only have the problem for about a week. I’d be very happy about tips and hints, so I’d miss the pleasure with my new mope. I’d like to get some tips and hints. d. LG wePsi
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The collector can’t leave it…
May I introduce: My third ZZR 1100. 93er D – model, 111 kW (151 hp) 58,000 km. It’s not as I imagine it, but it will be. I promise.
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Zephyr 1100: Starter spins, but engine does not start
…where we are, I would have another topic: I now had two or three times the situation, that after turning the ignition key the green idle light as well as the red for the oil went on, the starter turned smoothly, but the engine did not start. It seemed that there was simply no ignition spark. I turned the ignition key back again and then again on ignition. Then the mill started perfectly. I would be careful on the Zün dschlossen tapen? Does anyone of you have similar experiences or ideas about what else it might be? Sporadic mistakes are always the most beautiful…
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Reversometer defective , fuse burns by , battery defective
hey maybe you can help me. I’ve been having the problem for some time now that my battery is too weak to start my kawa. now I’ve pushed the last 3 times the machine, that was also going pretty well. same situation yesterday, machine went on, ran a few meters and it formed smoke in the speedometer, machine went off. Following things that are broken,are known to me. -reality at the speedometer burned-through battery empty/weak/defect (no Annunciation) – 10 A fuse flies out, that’s in the security box the last Hab tried to charge the battery and put in a new fuse, immediately burned out again (speedometer currently developed. Would be great if one could help me lg FLo
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Carburettors make gaskets themselves
Hello, I have a zzr500 BJ 1992 I am cleaning the carburetor and would have to renew the o-rings (swimming chamber and air intake sockets ) There are no original seals for the carburetor any more available. I got matching o-ring cords from FKM. Now I want to cut them and glue them. The problem is I do not know which glue I should take. Superglue (cyanacrylate) is not petrol resistant. Furthermore I would need a tool to keep the cords in the nut because they jump out of the nut easily.
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Neutral always lights up and motor stays on when side stand is outside.
Hello everyone, I bought me a Kawasaki gpz 600 r(zx600a). Now I wanted to go through the TÜV and there was criticism that the motorcycle didn’t go out when you put in a gear and the side stand was folded out, furthermore the neutral lamp didn’t go. Now I put a new brine in the neutral lamp and now it lights up. Unfortunately, it also doesn’t stop to light up. I also removed the side stand switch. I think it also works, since when I fold out the stand, the side stand lamp lights up on the handlebar. Nevertheless, the machine doesn’t go out when the side stand is folded out and you can even start driving… Now my amateur opinion is that the motorcycle always thinks it’s in neutral gear. But what could that be? I have already looked on the internet after that but found nothing. Thank you very much. MFG ZXLER123
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Overheating?
Hello dear ones! Last night with my Kawasaki ZR-7s in the traffic jam. At some point the engine revolving became shaky, and then it went out again and again. I am worried that I could have overheated it. 1. Is there a safety shut-down automatic? 2 Is an overheating damage detectable? 3. How do I even behave in such a traffic jam situation, where an engine can overheat? After a 2-hour break she drove again completely normal. Thanks for your help