Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello guys, maybe someone can give me a tip. Drive for about 20 years a 92 Zephyr1100. I have now almost 140,000 km on the clock, since then actually almost without problems. But recently the mill starts to annoy. Starts right after the first push of a button and runs quite round, even if it is cold. But sometimes – not always – so about 100-200 meters after the start, the revometer goes abruptly to zero and the cart stands. And that with beautiful like in bad weather. If I’m lucky then she jumps back and forth after several ignition keys and violent cursing again. I have changed almost all switches meanwhile, clutch switch, side stand switch, right handlebar fitting and even the lower part of the ignition lock with the electrics on it, but the problem comes again and again. I checked the battery cables and they are fixed. Recently she even goes during the ride on the fast road. ßeße – and that’s not very fun, if you are just overtaking. I cleaned all plug connections and treated them with contact spray, but the problem still occurs again and again. Maybe someone has the same problem. For a good advice I would be very grateful. I don’t want another mopped, because I don’t like any other as well as the Zephyr.

Hello Schrauber-Riege! In Feb. my 2nd 11er Ute (Bj. 85, 62t km, after 20 years highway and min. 2+4 years garage stand) scratched and furnitured. (Lufti, oil from the Polo(Tip of Tec-Doc 3-4 years ago; DANK!)+Filter, tires, conversion to SB-Lenker, naked) Problem for a few days: after hot driving (city) the stand gas falls off like a truck from 800 u/min and engine dies (almost). Stand gas turned up again, continued: at the latest at the next red traffic light: stand gas at 1500-2000 u/min. constant too high: turning down will go out, as if 1-2 cylinders would not ignite any more. Danch involuntary gas acceptance, as if engine would ignite wrong (or not all ZK). But also not permanently. Especially in the upper speed range it will be better/good. Last message of my Ute: Emergency program then sets in and flashes me something of motor temperature sensor. Since then I left it standing. Had with my ’83 beside foot oil also constantly the DFI emergency program on, was not too bad wrestling. (Failure not to find – inability I admit!) I tried to make myself smart in the Kawa forum, but Mopped and Trouble seems to be quite special. everything I found useful was a thread, by the heat it was about the CDI. (?) Now I’m really informed by the same mistakes of both moppeds and my love is slowly turning into hate(-love!!!). Maybe who knows of you advice where to start, or has experience with similar bitches. LG from Graz, and with warm in advance

Hello people, would like to introduce myself briefly. I am the Steff, 48 years old and live in Wittlich. Since yesterday I am beside my Gs 1000 proud besizter of a 750 he GPZ-R ,Bj 86, which I absolutely wanted, and now also finally have. Now I already had the problem yesterday with the seat, which did not open anymore. Thanks to your help it was a 2 minute number. Merci again. From the seat is now, and I put the GS next to the Kawa to bridge,( do not say that They don’t want any power from the Suzi,grins) and bridge the whole. Result : The control lamps funzen,Voltkontrolle scarce 12 V. But the starter doesn’t turn, everything else works however. Since 1st Sunday 2. The Rep.buch not yet there 3. I don’t have any operating instructions (maybe I’m too stupid to start the thing) I have immo no idea what it could be. Bock was standing on top stand, side stand folded. Switch is on run. If you suspect anything, what it can be Without making the world rebellious today, I am grateful for every tip.

Hey guys =) I start the next few days with my motorcycle license and have been thinking for a while about which motorcycle I should buy. I really like Naked Bikes, because my father has the Triumph Speed Triple, which I like very much. My problem is that I don’t have a lot of money and I don’t want to spend so much on a motorcycle, because at the beginning there is always a scratch and so on. So it should be a used one, because then there is a lot of it. the trouble is not as big as if I scratched a new machine or put it down with it. So max 4,000 more not. So I took a look at the Kawasaki z750 and yet it is available at mobile. de hardly at 4000. It should also be one that has more ps, so that I can drive it open after 2 years and with 106 the z750 is quite good. So how does it drive? Does it have high maintenance costs? How is it in the curves? Would I be happy if you still have similar motorcycles for me r Beginners might recommend lg Jeff95

Hello dear motorcycle friends, I have had my driver’s license for about a month and wanted to buy a motorcycle for the summer season, after that unfortunately did not work with an old Suzi, I was introduced to the GPZ 500s. What do I have to pay special attention to when buying, and which of these 3 models would you recommend to me?http://suchen.mobile.de/…/162038406.html?…http://suchen.mobile.de/…/160253439.html?…http://www.autoscout24.de/Moto/Details.aspx?id=214903607 lg jagob2

servus all on the other hand! before I start synchronizing my carburettor, it still requires the tuning of a few small things.. the question concerns the chuke is it at all possible to make the chuke more difficult? wants to say that I have to hold the choke lever, otherwise it slips back to the “normal” position. on my machine the choke train is quite smooth and therefore is pulled back by the spring, which pulls the mechanism into the closed position quasi w Ieder pulled to “to”. could pull the spring up a bit in the length so that the pulling force is taken out a little….but is not exactly the pattern solution. thank you for tips gruss lars

Hi together, I’m new here and last week – after 30 years – I bought another Kawasaki GPZ 1100 UT, year 1985 in red. Was just my favorite moped. I always regretted the sale…Now finally there is another one in the stable! Despite several other bikes in the meantime. I quickly found no posts that concern exactly my questions. Maybe also just not the right search word. I ask for understanding and tolerance. 😉 I’m still familiar with it (had the 550 and 750 at the time), but when I was refueling today, I’m a bit unsure. Especially if 1st lead replacement makes sense and -at least during the winter break the 2nd addition of fuel system cleaners for the injection pump makes sense? Is there both from various suppliers. 😉 How are your experiences with it? How do you see it? !

Hello, I recently moved to study. I did not take my 2 year old Kawasaki with me, but think about taking her with me now. The problem is: I have neither garage nor carport there. How sensitive is a motorcycle in winter? Would a tarpaulin suffice for protection? I have not to rent from a garage. 30 euro(?) monthly are too much for me. Would you be very grateful for helpful answers. mfg, lalolalo

Servus, at my Kawasaki Z125 I switched the turn signals in front and rear for LED turn signals (https://bit.ly/3nozl2q) and the turn signal relay for a load independent (https://bit.ly/3yZOmtr). The machine only has one turn signal control lamp for both sides. My problem is that if I want to blink, no turn signal will work, but the control light will light up permanently, so it doesn’t flash as normal. I had already tested the function after I had the rear turn signal. n Blinker was the first to switch, back then the original blinker had still worked properly at the front and the indicator light flashed, but the new rear blinker didn’t. I had changed the new blink relay again in hindsight for the original, the result remained the same. Does anyone have an idea what it might be due to? My next step would have been to reinstall the original relay and solder the resistors. LG Simon

servus, sometimes a question, am currently in despair, after several phone calls and contact reception by e-mails I still have no switch waves seal. somehow such a thing can no longer deliver or it takes and can not tell me when it is available. my seal below right that where the switchbar goes in is gone, now I have already tried a lot, but get it not dense and up to 8 weeks on a stupid seal I don’t want to wait either. has here still some dwer ne idea where I get the part? it’s not the simmering behind the scratch, it’s the din below what’s ripped. Part number 92049Bhttp://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?… or something you can still get that close to? so shit, must constantly put something under, because not just loses a little bit of oil. Or does anyone else have the complete Gus wall? to rebuild? Greeting and thank you